alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Penn Torque 25N: Service Tutorial and First Look.
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 22, 2019, 01:30:40 AM *
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Author Topic: Penn Torque 25N: Service Tutorial and First Look.  (Read 54376 times)
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #30 on: February 22, 2013, 09:28:10 AM »

The silver coloration returned by the scratch told me everything - cast and then machined aluminum, which is nice  Smiley .

Penn confirmed this AM that the black inner side plate is anodized aluminum.
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #31 on: February 22, 2013, 09:43:41 AM »

Very good explanation, now I get it Wink. Sorry, it takes me a while Roll Eyes.
Thank you John.
Sal
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Nessie Hunter
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« Reply #32 on: February 22, 2013, 11:14:10 AM »

Great tutorial, awesome pic also....
Saw it on B D and was impressed. 
Good job, lots of time & effort put into it.
Thanks....
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WOW!!! WHAT A RIDE!
john2244
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« Reply #33 on: February 22, 2013, 02:03:53 PM »

Great job !!   Thanks for posting.

John
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bigreddog
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« Reply #34 on: May 15, 2013, 11:10:53 AM »

Thanks John for the great tutorial.  I just took mine apart and removed the bearing shields.  It was a bear, had to use a #22 hook and forceps (Circlip shield retainer), along with a lot of magnification to get it done.  

I am a long time PG 545 fan for fishing 40-60# for long range bait fishing, but this reel has the Pro gears beat.  The Torque is the first reel to do that in my opinion.   Lighter, better free spool and line capacity, slightly better drags over a tricked out 545. I got 500 yards of 50# Izor Solid spectra with lots of room for a 30' topshot.  Over 90 seconds of free spool with line on it.

Mine has the 4.8:1 gear, but the reel has more torque than the PG545 at 4.0:1 due to a much longer handle in the power position.  The PG power handle measures 2 7/8", the torque is 3.75".  About a 30% difference.

Additional observations-an extremely light weight spool, and an oversized spool shaft.  

I guess I have a bunch of tricked out black Progear 545s for sale!
« Last Edit: May 16, 2013, 12:58:08 PM by bigreddog » Logged
johndtuttle
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« Reply #35 on: January 18, 2014, 08:30:24 PM »

Thanks John for the great tutorial.  I just took mine apart and removed the bearing shields.  It was a bear, had to use a #22 hook and forceps (Circlip shield retainer), along with a lot of magnification to get it done. 

I am a long time PG 545 fan for fishing 40-60# for long range bait fishing, but this reel has the Pro gears beat.  The Torque is the first reel to do that in my opinion.   Lighter, better free spool and line capacity, slightly better drags over a tricked out 545. I got 500 yards of 50# Izor Solid spectra with lots of room for a 30' topshot.  Over 90 seconds of free spool with line on it.

Mine has the 4.8:1 gear, but the reel has more torque than the PG545 at 4.0:1 due to a much longer handle in the power position.  The PG power handle measures 2 7/8", the torque is 3.75".  About a 30% difference.

Additional observations-an extremely light weight spool, and an oversized spool shaft. 

I guess I have a bunch of tricked out black Progear 545s for sale!

Hey thar,

Just getting around to some of my old threads and posts so thanks for that update with your on the water experience.

There are many reels that compete for "state of the art star drag reel in it's class that can do it all" and the Torque is the equal at least of anything else made (vs Shimano/Daiwa/Okuma). This classic 3/0 size is truly the do it all other than maybe trolling at length for larger models. That's where the tanks that rest on mechanical dogs come into their own and ARB's get beat up fast.

I might still pick a Baja Special for my one "stranded on a deserted island" conventional doomsday reel (for it's simple ruggedness and all around ability  Wink). However, other than trolling, there is nothing the Torque 25N doesn't do even better (lighter, lower profile, better feel in the hand, instant anti-reverse, better casting, faster retrieve and a lighter spool to help your live bait swim). This comes at a cost of greater complexity and price but is worth every cent and make the reel a joy to fish.

best
« Last Edit: January 21, 2014, 08:01:40 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
franky
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« Reply #36 on: May 15, 2014, 11:58:47 AM »

Hello John,

I am working on four of these reels....what a beauty!

On one of the reels, the spool adjustment knob in the center of the right sideplate seems to spin endlessly.  Upon closer observation, when I removed the outer gold cap, the internal silver threaded unit seems to be free spinning on the sideplate.  Undecided

Therefore, I took off the sideplate and looked at the inside part of that spool adjustment unit.  Indeed, it was freely rotating on the sideplate.

Question:  How is that threaded adjustment unit fastened to the sideplate?  Can it be removed?  I'm thinking about applying a very thin coat of super glue on the inside to help hold the unit in place.  I'm thinking that after all, when you put the gold adjustment knob on the outside, it is not load bearing and it does not take a lot of abuse.  I would have prefered another method of securing that unit from rotating, but I am trying not to simply "buy" another sideplate just because of this situation.

Thoughts?.... Smiley
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #37 on: May 15, 2014, 01:39:09 PM »

Standby, I wouldn't want to guess as to how they press it in or what the best way to proceed would be (I worry about epoxy promoting corrosion possibly) and am asking Penn to comment and give us guidance.

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johndtuttle
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« Reply #38 on: May 15, 2014, 05:02:13 PM »

Per Penn:

"The part is staked in, sounds like it wasn't hit properly at our factory. A quick fix would be "peening" the aluminum on the inside of the right side plate 4-5 times around the part, which will force the part to mate correctly and the part to no longer spin. I have done this quick fix out in the field once as we were at a tournament and the guy was fishing it the same day, it worked and everything is still functioning properly after a year. Seems like a couple of them may have gotten out as this is the 2nd time I have heard of it since launch date a few years ago. The glue may work but not 100% sure. Obviously he can send it in and it will be covered 100% under warranty."

I always do my best if I feel I have complete knowledge of how to proceed (or at least one way to do it that won't hurt anything Smiley). However, I often post in the Penn Forum on stripersonline.com as the service manager and techs post there frequently and really have the best knowledge as to how to care for your reel if anything remotely warranty comes up.

Smiley

ps of course, if you post here we all will do our best to help as we are able.
« Last Edit: May 16, 2014, 06:37:08 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
Jonnybravo
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« Reply #39 on: May 15, 2014, 05:30:10 PM »

This exact thing happened to me.  I brought it to Alan's house and he repeened it for me.  If you look closely, you'll see 4 small dents.  Just peen but don't hit too hard.  The material is very soft.
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franky
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« Reply #40 on: May 16, 2014, 12:09:17 PM »

Okay, thanks for the responses.  I did notice those small tab looking marks that surround the unit.  I will try and brace the unit and lightly tap it with a small punch tool.

Thank you.
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bigbassfisherman
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« Reply #41 on: October 18, 2015, 12:08:05 PM »

i just bought a black torque 12. i am trying to service it, but I can't figure out how to take off the right side plate. I have taken apart a few reels before and I have never had this problem. I took off the handle and the 2 torx screws (it seems that there are only 2 screws on the 12 size, unlike 3 screws on the 25n size). However, when i do that, the side plate stays on, as if there was another screw holding it in. i only see the two screws, is there something I am missing?
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #42 on: October 18, 2015, 12:19:01 PM »

i just bought a black torque 12. i am trying to service it, but I can't figure out how to take off the right side plate. I have taken apart a few reels before and I have never had this problem. I took off the handle and the 2 torx screws (it seems that there are only 2 screws on the 12 size, unlike 3 screws on the 25n size). However, when i do that, the side plate stays on, as if there was another screw holding it in. i only see the two screws, is there something I am missing?

I think you are doing it right but the tolerances of the RS plate are so high and there probably is reel grease sticking it together to make it tough. If you take off the LS plate first you can push on the spool spindle (not too hard) to pop it off (make sure the cap is on well). Sometimes the LS plate is tight too, you can conversely remove the spool tension cap (26B) and push on the spindle to pop off the LS. It nicely applies pressure in the middle of the LS plate.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2015, 03:30:09 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
bigbassfisherman
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« Reply #43 on: October 18, 2015, 01:22:54 PM »

Thank you so much! I just tried this and it worked. Saved me hours of frustration… I never would have thought of it myself!
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #44 on: October 18, 2015, 03:35:20 PM »

Thank you so much! I just tried this and it worked. Saved me hours of frustration… I never would have thought of it myself!

The Torque lever drags are very tight like this mating together so well they get snug. Fortunately you have to remove the lever drag cap to remove the spool anyways (as it is threaded to it's end) and I learned the trick that way.  Wink
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