Shimano Tiagra TI-80WA from kamu!

[alantani]

kamu-san, thanks a million!

Your basic tools to start your own reel repair.


Grab a schematic and lets get started.


Remove push button shield #91.


Remove slide plate & spring #93 & #94.


Remove push low button shaft #702 & handle assembly #703.


Remove lever hub cover #315.


Remove lever quadrant #728.


Take note of lock washers. Previous 130's had NO lock washers.


Also take note of O-ring on side plates under harness lug #717.


Remove spool assembly #713.


Remove left side plate #736.


Note: spool bearings, they look lubed, but like all my reels I'm going to repack all bearings with yamalube.


Remove pinion gears, cross pin #36C, preload spring #40, & preload washer #41C.


Remove cooling shield #566.


Remove pressure plate #325 & drag washer #324.


Remove drag plate #734. Lightly lube behind plate w/ Cal's or shimano drag grease.


Coat drag washer w/ Cal's or shimano drag grease & wipe off excess & reinstall.


Replace 2 shims under anti-reverse ratchet #299/


Ratchet assembly


Note: SHD (Shimano Hydrothermal Drag mechanism) Must not be disassembled.


Install alert ratchet, add a drop of locktite to prevent screws from coming loose.


Install 8 preload springs #40 & preload washer #40C. Stock configuration (( )) (( )) |


Lightly coat ratchet assembly & spool.

Install pinion gears #287 & #335


Completed spool assembly.


Note: shoe not removable.


Completed one piece frame #735.


Grease all screw holes & replace left side plate #736


Frame & left side plate installed. Grease frame to prevent salt intrusion.


Install the spool assembly.


Clean & lube drive gear A #282 & drive gear B #283.


Completed gear assembly ready to install on right side plate.


Completed right side plate, add one drop corrosion X to alert plunger.


Install strike alert lever #319.


Install drag control lever #729.


Install lever quadrant & hub cover.





-Note: These reels were serviced new out of the box. These are great reels with a few small pieces here & there. Like previous reels I've done, a little more grease would be nice, since we use them for trolling & NOT casting. For piece of mind, I coat all parts with grease to prevent intrusion & corrosion. These reels should last the user a life time. Like Alan says, "Drag grease is a must."  
                                                                       Aloha, Kamu.

[alantani]

Note: Wear on alert ratchet TT0732, notice elongation of holes.


Note: Marks on spool. This was caused from alert plundger hitting spool because of overuse
of clicker.

-This reel was brought to me for service which was set up for bottom fishing, with an electra mate style retreval system. After noticing marks on spool and speaking to the owner, I learned how this was caused. Because they drop lines a depth of 600 ft, they leave the ratchet on to prevent back lash, which began to make perfect sense to me. They could do other things while dropping line and know when the lines hits bottom. As the owner explained this was a cheap fix for their usage. I replaced TT-0719 alert plundger, TT0732 alert ratchet, and TT0683 click spring for a total of $23. As for trollers thats why it is recommended to turn off clicker while setting line or immediately after a strike. But some people just love that sound

[Igor Peric]

Yes,

some people love that sound, and the result is: 4 screws on picture almost fell into gear box on this Tiagra 30.

[Lowprofile]

awesome post! I came on here expecting to dig through the forums to find an 80W and there it is!

[ohfishalee]

I've used this thread to build my confidence in tearing down my 80w and find pieces of my drag plate in the housing. What should I do?

There are small carbon fiber strands in the pic.

[Tightlines667]

Easiest answer is to replace the drag disc, and the metal drag plate.  You can pull each and check the pressure plate and metal drag disc to ensure they are perfectly flat, and exhibit even wear.  If there is still plenty of weave on the drag disc, and both the metal drag disc, and the pressure plate are flat with no high spots.. you can recondition the drag disc and shim to account for wear, and continue to use the worn parts.  This appears to be a first Gen Tiagra.  The drag material is a bit softer on these.  I suspect the obvious wear on your drag disc creates a place for the edge of the weave to wear off.  The good news is, the wear on your drag disc appears to be relatively even, with no obvious scoring.  So you can probably get by with cleaning, reconditioning and shimming for wear.

John

[ohfishalee]

Easiest answer is to replace the drag disc, and the metal drag plate.  You can pull each and check the pressure plate and metal drag disc to ensure they are perfectly flat, and exhibit even wear.  If there is still plenty of weave on the drag disc, and both the metal drag disc, and the pressure plate are flat with no high spots.. you can recondition the drag disc and shim to account for wear, and continue to use the worn parts.  This appears to be a first Gen Tiagra.  The drag material is a bit softer on these.  I suspect the obvious wear on your drag disc creates a place for the edge of the weave to wear off.  The good news is, the wear on your drag disc appears to be relatively even, with no obvious scoring.  So you can probably get by with cleaning, reconditioning and shimming for wear.

John

Thanks for the advice. How would I shim (and what am I shimming)?

I've unscrewed the cf washer and am inspecting it now. About to place an order to shimano. What else might I need?

[ohfishalee]

What is the part number of the washer shown in this picture - my Reel does not have this washer/shim in place (perhaps due to the age of the reel?)

[Tightlines667]

That is the same as the thrust washer on the left spool bearing side of the Belleville stack.

[ohfishalee]

That is the same as the thrust washer on the left spool bearing side of the Belleville stack.

Thanks John