How are IFGA rods rated?

Started by Jonnybravo, December 03, 2013, 06:24:38 PM

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Jonnybravo

For instance, a IFGA rated 30lb trolling rod is made to fish 30lb test?  I'm wondering because I was talking to Okuma about a trolling rod for my Makaira MK16 SEa fishing up to 100lb wind ons and they had recommended a MK-TR-581-30s with is 30lb~ rated.    ???

Shark Hunter

Not to knock Okuma Johnny, but that's a pretty high priced rod for only being rated for 30lb. Just because you are using 100lb line doesn't mean you are going to pulling 100 lbs of drag.
I'm not sure what you are going to be using this rod for, but at 5'8", I'm guessing something land based. I don't know a whole lot about rods and ratings, but if you are fishing from a boat, a big fish is going to bend the heck out of that rod when he gets under the boat. If you are fishing from shore, I go with a Broomstick because I know its not going to bend as if I were on a boat.
I would shop around before I paid that much for a 30lb rod.
I am sure someone else will chime in with more experience than me on this matter.
Life is Good!

Jonnybravo

The one good thing about that specific rod is that a vendor on the east coast that I've dealt with has that rod for $190.  I'd use it mainly for a wahoo trolling or even as a standup rod on pangas for 150-200lb tuna.  I just fished Cabo last month and fought a fish for 2 hrs on my Seeker 2x4 on the panga and it tore me apart(pulled the hook about 40 yards from the boat...doh!!!).  I think that long of a rod is just not the best thing for a small boat.  Not to mention I had that rod built as a rail rod.  The short rod doesn't bother me but lifting power and capability worry me.

Tightlines667

For stand up, you want a short, stout rod with a short but section.  The rod should be helping you to gain line, not fighting you.  That being said, I would focus on a rod rated for 3 to 4Xs your typical drag setting.  If your fishing 30lb test, with drag settings between 7.5 and 10lbs a 30 'class' rod seems suitable.  However, if your fishing 100+lb spectra w/100lb mono topshots and are planning on using drag settings of 18-34lbs your gonna need a 100lb class rod, despite the fact your reel is 30class.  Another thing to consider is the fact that spectra w/ a relatively short mono topshot is not going to stretch much, so you should use a rod w/ some flex in the tip section to compensate (you still need a stout butt section).  It is my understanding that many of the rods designed for use with spectra,(i.e. shimano's deep drop jigging series), are great for maintaining an active tip while jigging, help with solid hook sets, and help w/low line stretch issues..but they will not work as well with maximizing effective line gain while fighting a fish stand up style.  Another option to consider are rods designed for live baiting, which have stout backbones and a more forgiving tip.  If you are strictly trolling and standup fighting get a short, stout rod that has equel flex throughout (parabolic?) rated for line class and drag at strike being fished.  Best is to try the reel on the rod, check for overall 'feel' and balance.  Then, after affixing tye line to a stationary object, try lifting the rod under different drag settings (strike, effective/30% line class, and max/50%+? line classs) where the line is at a 45 deg angle (trolling strike app), and at 90 deg down angle(jiging/stand up).  The rod should bend evenly and the butt section in particular should liad up relatively quickly at these drag settings.  If the rod continues to bend significantly more under load it is too soft and although it will help in maintaining a hook up, it will be working against you while fighting the fish, and may be inadequete at setting the hook on strike.  Wahoo have hard mouths and you prob want a min drag setting of 12lbs at strike for the most effective hook up ratios.  You can use less when fishing live bait, and particularily when using circle hooks.  When I used to target world line-class records, I routinely fished wahoo on 16,12, and even 8lb test while trolling and did get hook ups on 2.5-5.25 lbs of drag at strike(small, strong, sharp hooks help here).

Not sure if that helped?
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

Jonnybravo

Thanks for that reply.  I think I know what I need now.  But in general, when you see an IFGA rated rod, does that really mean its very under rated since it is made for going after world records?  Or the complete opposite and that they are underrated?

Bunnlevel Sharker

There stiffer than a rod in the same class so to speak. A 50lb igfa rod is much stiffer than a 30-50lb rod
Grayson Lanier

Shark Hunter

If it were me Jonny, I wouldn't fish with any less than a 100lb rod if I'm fishing 100lb line.
I have a 130 to 160lb rated roller rod that I fish with My 12/0 spooled with straight 130lb mono and I like it! ;)
I am fishing from Shore and kayaking my baits out.
Life is Good!

SoCalAngler

#7
The IGFA does not rate rods so whenever a manufacture says their rods are IGFA rated they must follow these guidelines only.

E. ROD

1. Rods must comply with sporting ethics and customs.
Considerable latitude is allowed in the choice of a rod, but rods giving
the angler an unfair advantage will be disqualified. This rule is intended
to eliminate the use of unconventional rods.
2. The rod tip must be a minimum of 40 inches (101.6 cm) in
length. The rod butt cannot exceed 27 inches (68.58 cm) in length.
These measurements must be made from a point directly beneath the
center of the reel. A curved butt is measured in a straight line. When
the rod butt is placed in a gimbal, the measurement from the center of
the reel seat to the pivot point of the gimbal can be no more than 27
inches. (The above measurements do not apply to surfcasting rods.)


Line on the other hand line must break at or below the test for any given line catagory.

Two hours on any fish and no wonder you pulled a hook. Hartbreaking? Yes, but you must know the longer your on a fish the more things that can go wrong.

Edit: I have no idea why anybody would reccomend a 30lb test  rated rod to fish 100lb test.....sounds way off to me.

Jonnybravo

Thanks for the answers everyone!  I think at this point, I'm think you've all convinced me to go custom.  What Super Seeker blanks would you recommend?  How's the SS-CTSF55XXH?

SoCalAngler

For a panga rod you can go short as you know, you may want to look at there blanks in The Super Seekers.

SS-CTSF55XXH  5 1/2′
SS-CTSF63XXH  6 1/4′

These are more of a 80lb blank but will fish 100lb. If your mainly looking to fish 100lb on the rod add one more X to the blank model.

Check out the Calstars while your at it. Pull on both at the same time to see which feels better to you. Also since you said wind on leaders you may want to go with ringged guides to keep cost, maintenance and weight down.

day0ne

Listen to SoCalAngler. The land based shark guys have different needs from you. One thing to consider. Rod ratings should be based on drag, i.e.,80lb rod, 20-25 lb drag. Depending on the type of fishing you do, you might want to up the line rating without upping the drag, such as using 100lb line on a 80lb rod. I do this a lot fishing around rigs for abrasion resistance. Effectively I'm fishing 80lb. you need to fit the rod to your style of fishing. You say trolling, but you don't say how you fish once you hook up. Is it from a chair, stand up, big boat small boat?. I often troll from party boats that may or may not stop. Heavier line is needed. Confused now?
David


"Lately it occurs to me: What a long, strange trip it's been." - R. Hunter

Shark Hunter

Quote from: day0ne on December 04, 2013, 07:46:06 PM
The land based shark guys have different needs from you.
Whatever, Its the same principles.
Life is Good!

Jonnybravo

No longer confused!  hahaha...  I see things a little clearer.  I think I'm going to go with a SS-CTSF55XXXH since I dont have any blanks to pull on here.  Also, sounds like I'll be going rings instead of rollers since I fish hollow core with wind-ons.  These seem to get the job done as far as I've heard for 100-130lb.    Also to answer you question about how I fight after the troll strike, it would be stand up on a pretty small boat(panga).  Thanks guys.

Bunnlevel Sharker

I would recommend a roller tip so it will pass easier, Stuarts are very good for the price
Grayson Lanier

SoCalAngler

Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 04, 2013, 08:39:02 PM
Quote from: day0ne on December 04, 2013, 07:46:06 PM
The land based shark guys have different needs from you.
Whatever, Its the same principles.

No it's very different, if it was all the same one style of rod would work just as well in both applications and this is not the case. Fishing from a panga where footing/seating is way more limiting than having a whole beach to get yourself set. There are no fighting chairs, sides of the panga's are around knee to mid thigh high so not much use in the rail when fighting and its very easy to get pulled over the side. The rest of the world does not fish the way us West Coast/Baja guys do while fishing from a panga, long range boat, having vast amounts of live bait and fishing the iron either yoyo or surface. I'm not saying it is better here just different. Now if your fishing only from a cruiser/yaht it would be just about the same anywhere.