'73 6500C Hi Speed

[NoobSauce]

Hello all,
I have found this to be the most useful forum regarding fishing reel repair and maintenance ever. I took on 5 6500C3 this winter and it went flawlessly thanks to the tutorials and information everyone provides.

I have an 1973 6500C Hi Speed that I am cleaning up from an auction now and I would like to know if you still use the same materials for cleaning the old grease out. I used carb cleaner and isopropyl for my 6500C3 reels. I know the plastics on the older reels can be sensitive to cleaners and want to be sure that I am using the right materials before I get too far and can't go back. Also, is everything permanently mounted in the right side plate? It appears that way to me, but I'm looking for some advise here as well.

Thanks for providing this forum and thanks for all the help!

[alantani]

welcome!  i tend to use solvents less and less.  what i do more often is to take an old toothbrush and scrub the parts to loosen and spread out the grease, then clean up everything with an old rag, toothbrush included, and then go back at the old parts with that same toothbrush, repeating the process until i have a light, thin coat of grease on all the parts.  i partly do this for speed.  soaking parts in solvents or an ultrasonic cleaner is time consuming.  by the time i'm done, the results are about the same. 

[Ken_D]

If you can find it, try Swarfega green waterless hand cleaner, no abrasives added. The Brits used to use this in open wounds to remove "road rash" from car accident victims. By the time they got the crash victim to hospital, the hand cleaner had dissolved the road tar and grime, so all they had to do was irrigate the wound, and proceed with treatment. 

The product also has antiseptic properties, and of course doubles as a hand cleaner around home. If unable to locate, then try a citrus type no grit added product, with the brush as Mr. T is doing above. Use hot water to rinse when clean enough to suit your needs. Waterless hand cleaners are a 'green' type product.

[NoobSauce]

Thanks for the info on foe to clean this reel. I will try the suggestions out.

Are parts still available if needed as I get deeper into this one?

[Lunker Larry]

Like Allen, I try to stay away from using too much solvent. Mostly rags and q-tips. Use Ardent reel cleaner if needed or some WD40.

[Bryan Young]

If I use solvents, it's usually WD40.  I will usually remove all plastic parts before using WD40 though. 

I mostly use Dawn Dishwashing liquid + Simple Green in an ultrasonic cleaner now (Thank you Alan) for those nasty jobs.

[Ken_D]

Thanks for the info on foe to clean this reel. I will try the suggestions out.

Are parts still available if needed as I get deeper into this one?

Could you flip the reel over, and post the numbers found there, on the reel foot.  Chances are you will be OK, with either parts of the day, or parts that still fit from today.

Except things like the side plates, star, handle, etc.  They will be long gone, available only on  the secondary market. Sight unseen, the plates may be be light gray or a bright silver anodize. Teal was rare, but they used thm here and there. Today's dual cast cap plates, handles, stars etc. fit, but can be spendy.

[NoobSauce]

Here are some pics for you all to take a look at and provide any advice. Photobucket was being a PIA from my phone for some reason. Foot number is 730901.

Thanks for checking it out.

[Ken_D]

This should work for you. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=796.0

http://www.abugarcia.com/sites/default/files/schematics/6000.PDF  

should help as well.  Hard to surf drawings for that style clicker.  Guts and feathers did not change much, as seen in the pictorial and the drawings from Pure Fishing.

[NoobSauce]

Thanks Ken. That will help me out quite a bit. I'll keep this post updated as I progress or run into a problem. I haven't had much time lately to work on it.

[retrofit]

This post is a little delayed but what the heck. Maybe someone will read it. Looks just like the one I'm working on right now to give to my grandson. It was my fathers reel and has foot number 771104. I also stopped using solvents about 10 years ago in favor of products called CLPs which stands for cleaner, lubricant, and preservative. Brand I use is called BREAK FREE. That and an old toothbrush takes off all the old whatever in no time flat.

[0119]

I used Breakfree on my duty guns all my career, great stuff.  But what about bearings?  I want a cleaner that leave no residue to contaminate the expensive Rocket Fuel Oil or Inox.  Even though its not recommended here I still find carb cleaner is the only thing that works.

[foakes]

Being a little bit of a woodworker -- I just put a little lacquer thinner in a small glass jar with a good lid -- drop the bearings in -- the crud will start oozing out immediately -- grease, oil, it all comes off immediately -- in 5 minutes -- shake the jar -- ALL of the crud comes out -- the lacquer thinner evaporates swiftly -- leaving no residue.

Blow out the bearings -- or just let them dry on a paper towel -- a couple of drops of oil, or grease as application requires -- done.

One thing a very experienced reel repair guy told me many years ago -- some guys stick a freshly cleaned bearing on a screwdriver -- then blow it with compressed air -- it will spin freely at very high speeds -- and be impressive -- but will also cause more damage in one minute to the unlubed, freshly cleaned bearing -- then a lifetime of fishing.

So blow through the bearing -- not spinning it with the forced air.

Everyone does it a little differently -- this is just what works for me -- the bearings are being evacuated as the rest of the reel is being worked on.  Simple and efficient.

Best,

Fred

[retrofit]

When I was a Maintenance BN CO, all of my small arms repair guys as well as my heavy weapons guys used Break Free CLP. They had learned that WD40 was a dust magnet but the Break Free was not. They also didn't need to add another lubricant because CLP stands for Cleaner, Lubricant, & Preservative. I get mine now at Walmart in the sporting goods section.

Your comment about dry spinning bearings is absolutely correct. I turn mine with a wooden dowel sharpened like a pencil and blow air through from one side to the other. I don't let the air spin the bearing when they have been so cruddy that I needed carb cleaner to get them clean. Some of my arms guys used diesel fuel to clean bearings and parts just because it wasn't as flammable and the fumes weren't as bad as some other cleaners.