alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Shimano Baitrunner 6500B
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Shimano Baitrunner 6500B  (Read 161443 times)
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BigT
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« on: June 07, 2010, 05:19:49 PM »

So I've had a few people ask me whether I could do a Baitrunner rebuild tutorial. Hope you've got some stamina, coz this is a biggie. Settle in a comfy spot and here goes...


First, the schematics can be found here:
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/displayimage.php?album=8&pos=38

Here's our patient... a Shimano Baitrunner 6500B, belonging to a fishing buddy.

Shimano's Baitrunner series are great reels and deservedly popular but they've caused a lot of fishos sleepless nights and high blood pressure when they opened up their favourite reel. The next one I see in a pieces in a plastic zip-lock bag won't be the last




This reel's only relatively new. Lucky these are tough reels because even with relatively little use, this one's already showing the effects of less than meticulous maintenance. Salt is visible in a lot of places, even some sand, and several of the visible screws are corroding. We can fix all that.

Let's start by removing the drag knob (ref #3296) and spool.





The only way I could free up the drag seal plate screws (ref #3293) was to give them a little spray with Innox, then use the tradies trick of first tightening each a nudge before unscrewing them. Then the drag seal plate (ref #2165) can be lifted off.





Remove the drag washers and give the metal washers and the spool a thorough clean.





The fibre drag washers (ref #3178) in this particular reel were badly compressed and full of crud. They went into the bin.



I didn't have any Carbontex washers on-hand to suit so I replaced them with a spare set of fibre washers from a previous upgrade. These were greased with Shimano drag grease, which can be worked in thoroughly with your fingers.



Before reinstalling the drag, the drag recess in the spool can be given a coat of drag grease with a paintbrush.





With the drag reassembled, let's give the clicker under the spool a smear of grease while we're at it.



Now we can move on to the main body of the reel. Begin by removing the handle (ref #7374) and the handle screw cap (ref #7436) (from the opposite side)



Next, the baitrunner lever can be disassembled by removing the lever screw (ref #2615) and washer (ref #2616). The left-side baitrunner lever arm (ref #3036) slips off and the baitrunner lever bridge (ref #3044) comes off the right hand lever arm (ref #3045).







Undo the left side plate screws and lift of the left side plate (ref #7435). Note that the 4 side plate screws are not all identical... the upper rear screw (ref #543) is smaller





With the side plate out of the way, remove and clean the left side plate bearing (I neglected to get measurements... oops)





Remove and put aside the drive gear spacer (ref #3032) and thrust washers (ref #743 x2)



Time to start on that baitcaster mechanisim... this is where it can go horribly wrong if you don't keep your wits about you (and a copy of the schematics close by!!)



Start by detaching the baitrunner clicker spring (ref #2963). Remove the 2 screws (ref #642) securing the baitrunner clutch assembly (ref #3037) which will then just lift out as a unit.







Put the clutch assembly aside carefully (watch all those springs!!) and lift out the main drive gear (ref #3031)



To remove the main shaft (ref #7421), you'll need to remove 2 c-clips (ref #262) that secure it on either side of the oscillating slider (ref #261). The main shaft will then slip right out.







Remove the oscillating slider (ref #261), then the oscillating gear (ref #741)





And then you can get at the right side plate bearing (this one has lovely emulsified grease inside it) and the oscillating gear bushing (ref #740). Remove the oscillating gear bushing (ref #740) while you're in there.





Now, it's back to the baitrunner mechanisms.



The clutch spring (ref #3002) can be detached from the mounting hole in the side plate with a pair of long nose pliers (it's easier with the baitrunner lever in the rear position which takes some pressure off the spring).



Back out the screw securing the lever shaft retainer (ref #2959 and remove it, then lift off the clutch arm (ref #3007)







Back out the screw holding the baitrunner pawl guide (ref #3013) and remove the guide





Move onto the baitrunner dial retainer (ref #3010)... you might need a small precision screwdriver... I used one of my trusty dental probes). If you look closely at the photo you can see that salt has intruded here in even this quite new reel.



Then the baitrunner dial assmebly (made up of ref #'s 3019, 3020, 3021, washer 113 x2, & freespool tension spring 2971) will just lift out.



Remove the baitrunner ratchet retaining c-clip (ref #266), the ratchet (ref #3033) and spacer (ref #3034)







Next, slip out the freespool eared washer (ref #3018), the single eared washer (ref #6780) and finally the click gear (ref #3016) between the 2 tension washers (ref #'s 3017 & 693)







The freespool tension shaft (ref #3043) just slips out.



The last few bits for the baitrunner assembly start with slipping the clutch cam spacer (ref #3038) off the shaft of the baitrunner lever arm (ref #3045)



Then detaching the pawl spring (ref #3012) from the mounting point on the right side plate and lifting out the baitrunner pawl (ref #3041)





And finally, slip out the right side baitrunner lever arm (ref #3045) and put aside the clutch cam (ref #3009) and clutch cam spacer (ref #2966)



So now let's move to the rotor. Look at that salt Embarrassed
Back out the nut-lock screws (ref #3600), remove the rotor nut retainer (ref #5799), undo the rotor nut (ref #714) and remove the rotor. Clean everything up and put it aside.









There are 3 roller clutch screws (ref #5040) that mount the roller clutch (ref #4763) to the reel body. DON'T remove the 2 roller clutch cover screws (thoughtfully a different colour on this reel). Unless you're way more curious or risk loving than me... or just plain nuts... leave the clutch bearing assembly (ref #4763) in one piece.

The alternative involves a lot of crawling around on the floor looking for bearing pins and then hair pulling as you try to reassemble all those pins and springs. Just lift off the clutch bearing, thank the kind people at Shimano, and put it carefully aside (with the collar still in place)





The pinion gear (ref #7429) and main bearing (ref #244) will then be accessible... slip them out and remove the pinion gear bushing as well (ref #733)







2 screws (ref #4416), secure the friction ring (ref #7430), which can be removed, cleaned and replaced. Interestingly, the friction ring on this reel seems to have stretched so that it's no longer a snug fit to the reel. I can't remember whether this was the case on previous baitrunners I've serviced and can't imagine it's role if it's deliberate... anyone know?



HOORAY... we're well on the way and can start rebuilding again. Cheesy

Because of my buddy's maintenance regime, I decided to pack the reel's bearings with grease for increased protection. So that the grease doesn't slow the reel down too much I used 'Lighting Lube' reel grease... a lighter grease than the Evinrude marine grease you've seen me use before.



A touch of grease on the pinion gear (ref #7429), then the cleaned-up and lightly greased pinion bushing (ref #733) can be replaced followed by the pinion gear and bearing (ref #244).







Reattach the clutch bearing



And give the inside surface of the reel body/right side plate a thin smear of grease with the paintbrush... it's not a metal surface but there are so many mixed metal moving parts in this reel that it's a good idea just to help keep things both lubed and protected from corrosion.



Replace the right side baitrunner lever arm (ref #3045) and the baitrunner pawl (ref #3041).





Let's clean up the clutch cam (ref #3009) and cam spacer (ref #2966). You can clearly see corrosion on these parts so all the metal moving parts also get a film coat of grease.





Replace them along with the longer clutch cam spacer (ref #3038)



When reassembling the freespool tensioning parts, I switched to drag grease, making sure to thoroughly work it into the fibre tension washer (ref #693). Just make sure they all go back in the reverse order you removed them and you'll be fine.







The baitrunner tension dial assembly got a quick pull-apart, clean, regrease and rebuild. Be really careful with the clear plastic tension spring washers... if you drop them, you'll be lucky to find them again!!





Replace the tension dial assembly and slip the retaining clip (ref #3010) back into place.





Replace the baitrunner ratchet (ref #3033) and spacer (ref #3034), locking them back in place with the c-clip (ref #266)



Ok, so we should move onto the bail arm assembly. Remove the screws (ref #5819 & #5811) from each end of the bail assembly and detach the bail, putting aside the various spacers, washers and collars in order.









To service the bail trip mechanism, back out the 2 screws (ref #5813 & #5814) securing the bail spring cover (ref #7427), which will lift off.





Lift out and inspect the bail spring assembly (ref #'s 5803, 5804, 5806 and 6223). Give the stainless steel parts a film of grease, which is most easily done by just rubbing them between grease smeared fingers.





Before replacing the bail trip mechanism, a thin smear of grease for protection on the metal surface inside the bail recess...



Then reassemble the bail trip mechanism...





A little note... one of the most useful tools I have when servicing a reel is a box of cotton buds. They can get into all the small nooks and crannies for cleaning and lubing. It goes without saying that all the bail arm assembly got the treatment.



Taking apart the liner roller requires the removal of the line roller screw cap (ref #7457), followed by the line roller screw (ref #88) underneath.





The line roller is still held in place by the line roller washer (ref #5801). Getting at the line roller is a bit of a trick. You'll need to push out the roller parts from the other side. Use something wooden like a paintbrush handle and support the bail arm well so that you don't scratch or bend anything... it takes some pressure.





Carefully lay out the line roller assembly that pops out. Line roller washer (ref #5801), roller bearing seal (ref #4744)... particularly interesting part name since there is no bearing in this roller :wacko: ... line roller collar (ref #7426), line roller bushing (ref #4743), line roller (ref #5997) and the line roller support coallar (ref #7458). Note that the line roller has a nylon lining which would be very very hard to remove without damage... it doesn't even get its own part number. Just leave it in place.





Again, despite it's 'youth' there was a lot of obvious corrosion in the bail roller parts (check out those pics). In fact, the bail roller wasn't turning at all when I got the reel. I gave them all a good clean and a film coat of grease for protection before reassembling (the wooden end of the paintbrush comes in handy again here). Now the bail roller works again.





There is a fixed, chromed metal plate on the other end of the bail arm... not the best set up for a low friction surface in a salt water reel. Corrosion and pitting again... a bit of careful work to clean it up as best we could and then a film of grease...



Then give each part (including the screw threads) a bit of grease and reassemble everything







When you get up to reattaching the bail arm to the bail trip, just carefully align the trip guide (ref #5803) with the corresponding hole under the bail arm mount (ref #7425). The best way to return the bail arm screw collar (ref #5812) is to slip it onto the bail arm screw (ref #5811) and screw it back in.







And the bail arm assembly is done! Time to finish this sucker off...

Give the upper surface of the rotor (ref #7422) a coat of grease before replacing it on the reel. The grease will help protect against corrosion once the rotor nut (ref #714) and rotor nut retainer (ref #5799) go back in place. Oh... and give these a smear of grease too.







Back inside the reel and I've greased and replaced the right side plate bearing.



Grease and replace the oscillating gear bushing (ref #740), the oscillating gear (ref #741) and the oscillating slider (ref #261)







Slide the main shaft back into the reel, securing it with the c-clips on either side of the oscillating slider



Reattach the baitrunner pawl guide (ref #3013). Replace the clutch arm (ref #3007), securing with the retainer (ref #2959)







With the baitrunner lever in the rear position to take some pressure off, reattach the clutch spring (ref #3002)... a small pair of needle-nose piers are useful





Clean, grease and return the main drive gear (ref #741)





Clean, re-grease and return the clutch plate assembly (ref #3037), screwing it back in place and then reattaching the click spring (ref #2963)







Replace the left side bearing spacer (ref #3032), thrust washers (ref #743) and then the cleaned and re-greased (or oiled if that's your preference) bearing.



The insides are all done so reattach the left side plate (ref #7435), remembering that the 4 screws are different so have to go in the right hole.



Reassemble the baitrunner lever



Give the handle a good clean with an old toothbrush (in the case of this reel that was a bit of work!!). Grease the hinge point and reattach the handle... not forgetting the handle screw cap (ref #7436) on the opposite side.





A drop of oil on the handle knob...



And it's over!!



Now... breathe a big sigh of relief, go and make yourself a strong coffee of get an icy beverage... and have a biiiiiig rest.

If ever there was a good incentive to keep your reels clean, it's the thought of having to do that full service again. "An ounce of prevention is worth several hundred pounds of cure"


Cheers, BigT
« Last Edit: June 07, 2010, 07:32:03 PM by BigT » Logged

more of my rebuilds on
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alantani
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« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2010, 09:17:32 PM »

you know, tony, i tried working on one of these a few years ago and i barely got it back together.  haven't touched one since.  alan
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conchydong
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« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2010, 05:17:16 PM »

Wow! lots of parts! Thanks for taking the time out to make that post. You did a great job but I think you also scared me into not trying a re-build on my own. I will definitely save this post just in case some day I get brave enough to dismantle my 6500B.
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2010, 10:04:10 AM »

Wow Tony.  That's an awesome rebuild.  I think that is why I love older Penn spinners.  May not be as sofisticated, but simple and gets the job done.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
Norcal Pescador
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« Reply #4 on: June 09, 2010, 02:50:02 PM »

Wow! lots of parts! Thanks for taking the time out to make that post. You did a great job but I think you also scared me into not trying a re-build on my own. I will definitely save this post just in case some day I get brave enough to dismantle my 6500B.

Yeah, don't do it yourself, send it to BigT. It sure scared me away! If you send it to Alan, he'll attach his bar bill to the invoice! Wink Grin
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Rob

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broadway
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« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2010, 07:02:41 PM »

Tony, 
      That was one hell of a tutorial.  I'll send you my baitrunners from now on...are you kidding, that's sick!!! Shocked Grin Thanks
Dom
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george.s
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« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2010, 03:58:19 PM »

well done Tony. there is a few handle upgrades you can do to. the cheapest one is Alan's grip just drill out the old one and screw the new one in. then there is the 20000 stella fa or you can use the 18000 saragosa one.   

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Russ57
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« Reply #7 on: June 11, 2010, 10:24:27 AM »

Thanks Tony.  I was one that asked if you would consider doing a baitrunner.  If you get a chance look for one of the older all graphite ones.  It has two drag adjustments and functions a bit like a lever drag.  I like them a LOT better.

I would like to get mine serviced.  I have a few newer reels but I still have a soft spot for my old baitrunners.  They have put a lot of fish in the boat over the years.
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« Reply #8 on: June 14, 2010, 09:31:50 AM »

This is great.  Thanks for an outstanding tutorial.
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dexter
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« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2010, 12:28:27 AM »

Hi Big T,

thanks for the illustration on dismantle a 6500B.. had been looking high and look for illustration cause i need to change a damage rotor on my 4500B...

although there are some different between a 6500B and 4500B but urs really help.. at least it break my mental barrier to open up my baitrunner...

btw... i notice a few thing..

a) removing of the baitrunner clicker spring is not necessary when removing the clutch assembly..
even with the clicker spring in place.. the clutch assembly still able to be removed...

b) install of using a pincer...i just use a bent safty pin to remove the spring... just bent the tip of the safty pin to 90 degree...

was very afraid of spring last time... especially those small spring.. but now.. i think with a bent safty pin.. it will be easier next time...


c) removing of the main drive gear really not that easy.. i had to remove the main shaft before i can took out the main drive gear assembly... the main shaft get into the way of the lower (small) gear of the main drive gear..

d) remove of the rotor really only possilble after the main shaft is removed... this also mean that the bail arm can only be service after the main shaft is removed.

e) the bail arm assembly is more easy to re-install by doing the bail arm first..

ie bail arm..bail spring guide (A)... bail spring guard (A) collar... spring .. then the  bail spring guard (B)...
just snap the bail spring guide (B) into position... i think this was more easy...

f).. i got a big problem here with the bail arm click and bail arm click spring... these 2 was not in the 6500B u are servicing.. initially was unable to get the bail arm to click becuase the bail spring guide(A) get into the way when the bail arm rotate...pondering for many hour before i just assemble back (with out the click sound when bail arm turn fully).. but some how it work okay when fully assemble...anyone who had the same experience pls advise... will rectify during my next serving...
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« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2010, 03:22:13 AM »

well done bigt,i do admire your skill.i have one thats been asleep in its box for  a few years now,dont think ill wake it EVER!cheers
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Roger
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« Reply #11 on: August 01, 2010, 05:42:28 AM »

Great job Tony as usual but I think I'd need a couple a valium, either before or after that. I don't know which.......
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Roger

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."   Mark Twain
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« Reply #12 on: April 24, 2011, 12:40:42 PM »

wow i think a Chevrolet might be easier.
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mako42
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« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2011, 09:49:45 PM »

Hi Big T,

thanks for the illustration on dismantle a 6500B.. had been looking high and look for illustration cause i need to change a damage rotor on my 4500B...

although there are some different between a 6500B and 4500B but urs really help.. at least it break my mental barrier to open up my baitrunner...

btw... i notice a few thing..

a) removing of the baitrunner clicker spring is not necessary when removing the clutch assembly..
even with the clicker spring in place.. the clutch assembly still able to be removed...

b) install of using a pincer...i just use a bent safty pin to remove the spring... just bent the tip of the safty pin to 90 degree...

was very afraid of spring last time... especially those small spring.. but now.. i think with a bent safty pin.. it will be easier next time...


c) removing of the main drive gear really not that easy.. i had to remove the main shaft before i can took out the main drive gear assembly... the main shaft get into the way of the lower (small) gear of the main drive gear..

d) remove of the rotor really only possilble after the main shaft is removed... this also mean that the bail arm can only be service after the main shaft is removed.

e) the bail arm assembly is more easy to re-install by doing the bail arm first..

ie bail arm..bail spring guide (A)... bail spring guard (A) collar... spring .. then the  bail spring guard (B)...
just snap the bail spring guide (B) into position... i think this was more easy...

f).. i got a big problem here with the bail arm click and bail arm click spring... these 2 was not in the 6500B u are servicing.. initially was unable to get the bail arm to click becuase the bail spring guide(A) get into the way when the bail arm rotate...pondering for many hour before i just assemble back (with out the click sound when bail arm turn fully).. but some how it work okay when fully assemble...anyone who had the same experience pls advise... will rectify during my next serving...
\

First of all thank you Big T for all the work you put into that tutorial.  I have an older plain 6500, and a newer 6500B and would have never tackled that job without that tutorial.  Dexter is correct, especially on points A and C.  On the older 6500  I found it impossible to remove the main gear without removing the shaft first.  There is just not enough room.  I really noticed corrosion in the clutch arm, more than almost anywhere else.  I think they use a poor quality metal in that part..  There was alot of salt in the baitrunner clicker area.  Whoever has this reel really needs to go through it because of the salt intrusion.  They are great reliable reels.  I just put carbontex drags on them.  The drag feels aot better , smoother, and stronger.
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dnaber
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« Reply #14 on: August 13, 2011, 05:35:46 PM »

As stated before Thanks BigT for your very detailed guide to the breakdown and cleaning of the 6500. With the information provide I gained enough courage to attempt to clean my BTR3500. I followed the steps that you took and with the exception of a few different steps I was able to completely disassemble my reel, repair, clean and reassemble the 3500 with no extra parts left over!!!  Last year I sent my other 3500 back to Shimano to be repaired but after about a week I called and they said they were waiting on a back ordered part. As they had no ETA they offered me a new 6000 baitrunner which for $40.00 I thought was a no brainer. Then this year my other 3500 started doing the same thing. The bait runner lever started sticking, not fully disengaging. I once opened the reel and closed it quickly because I was out of my comfort zone looking at all those parts. But thanks to you I opened it again and after about an hour I had a fully working and lubed reel again. I think the trick here is to just not be afraid of trying. I mean I used to work on jet engines and I figured that if I could tear one of those down and rebuild it I could at least try it on my reel. AGAIN THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO DOCUMENT THIS PROCESS.

Don
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