Shimano TX110Q

[gordhawk]

I have a Shimano TX110Q that I received in a box and I can't figure out how the drag system goes together. Is there anyone out there that might be able to help me? I have a schematic to the reel,but still can't get the drag system figured out. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!

[johndtuttle]

I have a Shimano TX110Q that I received in a box and I can't figure out how the drag system goes together. Is there anyone out there that might be able to help me? I have a schematic to the reel,but still can't get the drag system figured out. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!

This is an oldie and has a rear drag if I read the schematic right?

http://schematics.planetseafishing.com/downloads/shimano/fixed-spool/tx-series/shimano-spinning-tx110q(91-36).pdf

I wish I could be more help but have never opened one. Typically it's a case of properly nesting the parts so that they are as compact as possible. If you can play with them outside of the reel first the nesting puzzle sometimes becomes clear.

[Nuvole]

I took a peek at the schematic.

Basically this type of reel work on rear drag, with a stiff spring pushing the drag plate/washer.
The more you tighten the knob, the higher the pressure on the drag washer.

This is not an easy reel to service.

[alantani]

dude, so sorry to hear this.  i worked on one bottom drag spinner and swore off of them forever.   

[gordhawk]

I've done a lot of swearing at this reel now I'm about ready to swear off of it.

[gordhawk]

Thanks,everyone for you input on this reel,much appreciated!

[johndtuttle]

Thanks,everyone for you input on this reel,much appreciated!

Look at the bright side: For about $30-50 used you can get 2 or 3 of them!

[philaroman]

one of your problems is that Shimano schematics from the 90's are fuzzy, unreadable CRAP w/ errors & omissions...  fortunately, the rear-drag mechanism stayed pretty similar for decades.  cross-reference  w/ Spirex RD -- schematic is crystal clear & the drag is close enough

1) assemble most of the gear-box & attach the rotor WITHOUT installing THE MAIN SHAFT;

2) the little 4-stack that's drawn separately (RD 0554, 0064, 1355, 1356) goes into its own frame cavity from the side (which you can see better in the Spirex schematic); THEN the main shaft gets installed through that 4-stack to pin it in place

3) THEN the rest of the rear-drag fiasco gets installed from the bottom

• pay close attention to the Drag Shaft (RD 1357) -- regardless of what schematic shows, it could be 1-pc OR 2-pc; NOTHING IS "FLIPPABLE"; & it may be hard to tell which way is "up" if you didn't notice during disassembly
• the wire clips/springs (RD 0553 & 0560) are a royal pain in the sphincter -- take your time; be careful; make sure they're seated just right!!!
• Fightin' Pressure Screw (RD 1360) does not get tightened all the way -- the Fightin' Lever (RD 1975) needs to turn it to "nudge" the drag

4) Relax; Take your time; Have Fun...  imagine a JDM version w/ worm-gear oscillation, roller bearing & twice as many parts packed in like a Lexus engine, AND BE GLAD YOU'RE NOT ME 

[johndtuttle]

O thx for that Phil!

Sometimes when you get into a baitrunner or such you just go: "How in the h.e.double L does anyone do this???" 

Now, riddle me this....why in the name of St. Ray Cannon would you want the drag in the rear? Or is this just one of those left over fossils like an anti-reverse switch?

regards

[LTM]

Gordhawk,

I have a TX120Q (one size larger) that I have taken apart numerous times. Great little surf reel (no bearings and drag away from oncoming splash of waves), I use mine with 6#. When I get back in this evening I'll take pictures for you of the drag assembly and how I go about servicing it.

Leo

[philaroman]

Now, riddle me this....why in the name of St. Ray Cannon would you want the drag in the rear? Or is this just one of those left over fossils like an anti-reverse switch?

regards

basically, they're for people who love to fiddle w/ the drag when playing a fish & want to keep their fingers away from the line/spool/rotor/bail (some also like the quick-swap push-button spool)

IMHO, most rear-drags are CRAP: too big/bulky for the line class; weak, choppy, imprecise drags; tedious to service, even AFTER you learn & know them (for a novice, they're HELL -- aside from the over-complex rear drag, you can't take off the rotor without first completely removing the main shaft)

Japan-made Shimano w/ Fightin' Drag, AeroSpool, and worm-gear oscillation, are the only rear-drags I like for some narrow, specific applications (despite the fact that they're service NIGHTMARES  ):

• certain extra-long, light rods (Match, Float, Noodle, etc.) tend to balance better with an ####-heavy rear-drag -- an equivalent front-drag would be lighter by a couple ounces, overall & nose-heavy; its high drag potential serves no purpose w/ light line
• the Fightin' Lever allows you to nudge your drag setting in tiny increments up to 1+ lbs. in either direction from what you pre-set w/ a scale & you can return to your pre-set, EXACTLY & INSTANTLY -- good for hands-on line protection
• you can use them as a poor-man's UL Baitrunner -- not quite as precise or versatile as a real Baitrunner, but functional & CHEAP (real original small Baitrunners are rare & EXPENSIVE; later models were not made smaller than 3500-size)

IMO, they're like potato chips -- YOU CAN'T HAVE JUST ONE !!!    I have 7(?) that I rotate for occasional F/W use.  that way there's no salt & I can postpone the COMPLETE tear-down until maybe twice/decade, all together -- if I ever get stuck, I just open the next reel w/ more care & attention...  works better than sloppy, fuzzy, incomplete schematics.

BTW, the A/R switch is not a fossil! Back-reeling is a valid, useful, finesse technique - albeit, it's a dying art

[gordhawk]

I want to thank everyone that replied to my post for help in getting the drag system back together on this reel. I'm happy to tell you all that the reel is back together and working like a new one. I finally got the drag system figured out and after that it was a piece of cake. If any of you ever need help with this model reel,I'm pretty sure I can help you out. I especially want to thank Phil,for the suggestion of looking at a Spirex RD schematic,as it was much much clearer to see and read than the schematic for the TX110Q.
Thanks,again everyone for your help,this is a great website with alot of fisherman willing to help a fellow fisherman out.

[johndtuttle]

Take some photos! 

[LTM]

Trully forgot, got real busy.  Glad you worked it out, not that hard.

Leo