latest reel parts

[jurelometer]

Here ares some of the projects that I have been working on:

3D stars:

Cut these puppies out of 360 (or 260?)brass on the CNC mill (thanks for the wide tab idea from Three se7ens and Dom)-  I will powder coat these, as the brass is too soft to leave as is.



Fly reel extension arm:

These are used to make heavier reels balance better when casting,  and also give you a bit more distance from the butt for improved winding.   They never caught on with the fly fishing crowd, but I wanted to try one, so I made one.   First a 3D printed  plastic prototype and then cut an aluminum version.   Waiting on some screws ( 5-40 )   to finish the part.




Reel handles-  


Made a handle arm and knob (prototype) for the TLD Star.  The knob is oval, but offset at 9 degrees to provide a compromise for ease of speed winding for jigging and winding under load.   Also a round knob for spinners, based on Sal's specs and ideas.   Not sure what to do for knob shaft hardware.  Want something off the shelf.  


TLD above, spinner below.



Also took some time off to test my updated swimbait design.   The local lingcod were all over the 7 inch version.   Need to head up north to try the 9 inch version (just finished the mold).






I'm looking for advice on what to use (off the shelf) for hardware- shaft and bushings  for the knobs.  Any ideas?

Also looking for some test pilots for my 9 inch swimbait.   Need folks that fish regularly this time of year and use these types/sizes of baits.  Northwest US/Canada lingcod fishers esp. welcome.

-Jurelometer

[Ron Jones]

I imagine we could use these in Mexico next month, they look really great! Everything looks really well thought out and executed.
Ron

[Keta]

Nice!!


I fish the mid/south coast of Oregon, when I get back from the LR trip I'll be fishing out of Brookings.

[MFB]

Nice work.

Rgds

Mark

[jurelometer]

I imagine we could use these in Mexico next month, they look really great! Everything looks really well thought out and executed.
Ron

Thanks!  My parts are improving thanks to all the feedback.

On the swimbaits:  Already tried the 7 inch version for a couple weeks  in Cedros.   The calicos were all over them.  More than held its own fishing against the big name plastics.  Of course when the calicos are biting, they are pretty open minded, so better is a relative thing.

The 9 inch might be a bit too big and fat for calicos, unless you are trying to select only the big toads.  You will get lots of tail grabs.  The idea with a big bait is to not get a hookset on smaller fish.  They have to fit about 8  inch of lure in order to get hooked.  I also have only tank  tested the 9. I want some private testing before getting the long range fleet exposure...

Test pilot program is now closed.   Thanks to all that responded.

[Ron Jones]

Tail grabs. Those drive me nuts. Anyone ever run assist hooks on swimbaits?
Ron

[johndtuttle]

Tail grabs. Those drive me nuts. Anyone ever run assist hooks on swimbaits?
Ron

Yep, tied a small treble on a short trailer then used a bait needle to thread in through the tail kinda like how you rig a kite flyer bait.

[jurelometer]

Tail grabs. Those drive me nuts. Anyone ever run assist hooks on swimbaits?
Ron

For  many  species,  tailbites can be cured by dropping down in swimbait size.   You can also cut some length off the front.  I usually find that I start catching fish that were too small to swallow the original size.

I am curious if assist hooks will be properly positioned to help with shortbites on a swimbait that is generally horizontal.  You don't get much further back with the kind of assist hook setup I am thinking of.   Also, since the jig is horizontal, assist hooks would hang down and be a snag risk.  If you are thinking of something other than a classic assist hook setup, you need to go very light if you attach anything to the back of a swimbait.  It can screw up the action pretty easily.

I have some ideas for a coho (tail biter extraordinaire)  swimbait, but need to try it out first.

[doradoben]

Cool stuff, jurelometer. Are the TLD arms made from brass or are they steel?

[HOLEINTHEWATER]

YOU HAVE SOME REAL TALENT. NICE WORK.

[jurelometer]

Cool stuff, jurelometer. Are the TLD arms made from brass or are they steel?

Thanks!

Arms are 6061 T6 Aluminum bent and powder coated.   I could have made them out of stainless just as easily.  The prototype knob is ABS plastic, but  a final version will probably be a urethane of some sort, maybe slightly rubbery- like a Shore A 80-90 hardness.  Still trying to decide what to do for the bushings in the knob.  My head tells me to use the PTFE imbedded delrin bushing material (plastic), but it seems that plastic is not so popular, even when it might be the best choice.

Still looking for any opinions or advice on the bushings.

[Ron Jones]

Plastic has worked for M-16s for a good long time. I know a guy that makes folding stock hinges for magnum rifles out of delrin. I agree, Teflon impreg delrin bushings would be perfect, slicker than balls and no maintenance.
Ron

[Alto Mare]

Plastic has worked for M-16s for a good long time. I know a guy that makes folding stock hinges for magnum rifles out of delrin. I agree, Teflon impreg delrin bushings would be perfect, slicker than balls and no maintenance.
Ron

I agree!
I'm thinking of using it as a spacer sleeve on my reels.

[jurelometer]

Plastic has worked for M-16s for a good long time. I know a guy that makes folding stock hinges for magnum rifles out of delrin. I agree, Teflon impreg delrin bushings would be perfect, slicker than balls and no maintenance.
Ron

I agree!
I'm thinking of using it as a spacer sleeve on my reels.

Thanks Ron/Sal!

the other issue with acetal (delrin)/ptfe (teflon) is abrasive environments (i.e. sand).  But if the depth of the bushing is reasonably generous, and the tolerances are reasonably tight, this should not be a problem.   Ball bearings don't do well with sand either.  Not to mention salt.  Just opened up the knob on  an Avet and saw a rusty ball bearing- blech...

I can  market it as a maintenance free space age co-polymer solid bearing

[Three se7ens]

You could always machine the acetal spacer to have a short wiper on each end that contacts the shaft tighter than the rest of the spacer.   That would reduce overall friction, allowing a tighter fit on the ends to keep out salt and sand.

Id stick to delrin for its stability.  Teflon cold-flows, so the tolerances will degrade under pressure.  Acetal (or delrin), tends to function far better as a bushing.