How Smoothe is Real Smoothe

Started by funhog, June 25, 2014, 09:47:25 PM

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funhog

I never thought I'd be asking this question, but after a "Total time logged in: 1 days, 6 hours and 39 minutes" resulting in  4 drag conversions and numerous other tweaks from the site"s brilliant brain trust; here goes:
Is the drag curve supose to be smoothe throughout the curve from light all the way to lock down? My reels are all the Newell p-f srries and late 80s penn/tiburon conversions. All are CF drags greased with Cal's  and reach the anticipated final drag#s. However the last 2-3 pounds achieve is not that smoothe. Its more like a smooth jerk or bouncing smooth release; like a wheel out of round. My testing was done with rod& reel in a rod holder on a parked, trailered boat with a spring scale and 30 feet of line out. Everything is smooth as I could hope for up until about 10-12 pounds on the Newells. The 113,112 and 349s tend to lose it at top end also ( a little like rotars needing to be turned on disc brakes..out of ballance). I havent seen it mentioned on any post. My two 2-day tips are comming up and I usually fish 25- 30 pound line and have never had any issues with the reels. Probably bcause I never lock them down.  I've never been this informed on "what can be done and what to expect" so now Im in the curriously cautious mode. Maybe I'm good to go? Any feed back greatly appreciated! 

alantani

first guess, the frames are torquing or the spool shaft is flexing a little, allowing the spool to rub against the frame.   when you said "like a wheel out of round," that tipped me off.  a sticky drag will be sticky at low drag and high.  a spool rubbing against the frame will be worse at high drag settings and disappears completely at low settings.

in terms of a fix (if this is the cause), then finding the "high" spot and then knocking off a little material on the frame with a dremel and a sanding wheel will fix it quick.  usually it is between 1:00 o'clock and 5:00 o'clock as you look at the frame from the right hand side.  caution when doing this, though.  by grinding away at the frame, you are increasing the gap between the frame and spool.  that might allow spectra to get caught inbetween during a backlash.  these can really be a mess. 

just a guess......  :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Alto Mare

I've been doing some testing on drags lately and I'm finding out that using Delrin instead of a carbon fiber washer for under the gear, my reels are much smoother.
I'm slowly removing the carbon washer on  all of my reels.
Here is where I get mine from...just in case
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2638T24
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

bluefish69

Sal

How do you cut the washers??

Mike
I have not failed.  I just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

Alto Mare

I've been using these for a while, for all of my washers, I have a couple in different sizes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PCs-JEWELERS-METAL-DISC-CIRCLE-CUTTER-PUNCH-TOOL-SET-1-2-1-/321442215618?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad772f6c2
I'm not having luck centering the washer for the inner hole, so I use a dremel for the hole.
Each washer takes a couple of seconds and always come out perfect.
Dwight has a nice cutter, he can cut the washer with the hole with one bit. Those are not cheap though, but if you cut many, it would be a good investment. I'm thinking of getting one.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Tightlines667

I've been seriously considering the Delron option as well.  It may help to 'smooth things out' at higher drag settings, and is a more practicle idea then trying to customize the reel to accept a flat thrust bearing or some similar expensive and time consuming option.
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

Alto Mare

Quote from: Tightlines666 on June 26, 2014, 01:08:56 AM
is a more practicle idea then trying to customize the reel to accept a flat thrust bearing or some similar expensive and time consuming option.
I'm with you on this, so far I'm very happy with this material and I don't believe there is a need for a thrust roller bearing.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

funhog

You guys( the alantani crew) are the Best!
I go out to dinner with my wife and daughter - come back and my problem is logically sorted out with the "cause, cure and prevention". All gained in just moments from yrs. of experience. 
Looking forword to my project for tomorrow night and will post the results. I think there might be qutie a few wondering about this  little quirk at the top end of their drag. :)

Lensters

Did you replace your metal washers?  You might have nailed it when you said "like warped rotors".  If those metals warp or bend from storing them with the drag tight you will get bounce no matter what you do.  You can replace them or planarize them on a file.  If you planarize them, check that they are done evenly using a caliper.
Lensters is also known as Len and will respond when addressed as either.

Disclaimer: My opinions, are mine and mine alone.  They should not be ascribed to Alan, moderators or anyone else on this site.  However, should you wish to, you may adopt them as your own.

funhog

McMaster-Carr is just down the street from where I work in Santa Fe Springs, Ca. I'll stop by and get a piece, then hit-up Harbor Freight on the way home for a punch kit. However, the guys at McMaster may have another idea for cutting the washers out out.

thanks again,   john

Lensters

Quote from: Alto Mare on June 25, 2014, 10:51:22 PM
I've been doing some testing on drags lately and I'm finding out that using Delrin instead of a carbon fiber washer for under the gear, my reels are much smoother.
I'm slowly removing the carbon washer on  all of my reels.
Here is where I get mine from...just in case
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2638T24

I'm happy to hear that I'm not the only person not putting drag washers under the main gear.   I can't see anything wrong with it, I just don't need the extra drag enough to put one where it isn't designed to be.
Lensters is also known as Len and will respond when addressed as either.

Disclaimer: My opinions, are mine and mine alone.  They should not be ascribed to Alan, moderators or anyone else on this site.  However, should you wish to, you may adopt them as your own.

alantani

i still prefer a drag under the main gear :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

basto

I have always thought that reel engineers put hard fibre washers under the main gear for a good reason.
DAM Quick 3001      SHIMANO Spedmaster 3   Jigging Master PE5n

Shark Hunter

#13
For the type of fishing I do, I mainly fish Big Senators. I noticed on a 12/0 Senator, after catching a small 7 foot Black tip last year that fought pretty good, He actually pulled my locked down drag a couple times. The drag washer under the main gear did its job, but it was toast. The teeth from the ratchet had dug into the washer enough that it needed replacement. It also deformed it, so that it wasn't perfectly round any more. I contacted Mc-Master Carr only moments ago and they already replied they would supply me a sample of the Delrin for testing.
Awesome! ;)
Life is Good!

Alto Mare

Let me mention that I don't have anything to do with Smootdrag, McMaster or anyone else, I simply tried these for myself and I'm happy with the results.
I strongly believe that the washer for under the gear should act as a bearing, not drags.
As you can see from the link above, the material is reasonably priced, well maybe not for long :-\,
Go ahead and give it a shot for yourself and see if it works for you, if you want to stick with the carbon fiber for under the gear, that's ok with me.
Lee mentioned that he cut take this material to the cutter and they could do a good job, that would be nice.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.