Penn Jigmaster with Accurate frame and sideplates spool too Loose

Started by franky, June 27, 2014, 07:19:47 PM

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franky

Hello all,

I am working on a jigmaster that has accurate sideplates and frame.  If I tilt the reel to the left (ratchet side down), the spool spins extremely nice.

Then, when I tilt the spool to the right (handle side down), the spool shifts to the right and it rubs and stops right away.

When the spool is to the left, it is centered and all good.  The problem is on the right side.  I shimmed the bearing to help take up some of the spacing issues....no success.  It seems that with or without the shims, there still seems to have a 1/8th inch gap that causes the spool to have too much side to side play.

On the right side bearing cap, the accurate bearing cap has an inner pin that is in the center of the bearing cap.  I think this pin is suppose to bump up with the end of the spool shaft to keep the spool from shifting any further to the right.  :-\

Somehow, I wish this pin was longer.  Anyhow, there is this 1/8 inch of slop and even if you put shims under the bearing, it does not help close the gap.

Everything else seems to be sitting flush bridge to sideplate...etc.  I stumpted.

Oh and btw, I tried switching out the spools with another spool.  At first it did work, but as I tested the reel by speed cranking and free spooling the eccentric lever, I heard a pop and now that other spool has the exact same problem...it has a 1/8th inch side to side play and it scraps when tilted twards the right.

Also, the bearing caps on both ends are tightened all the way....and still, 1/8th side to side play.... ???

Thoughts anyone?.... :-\


Bryan Young

I wonder if they have the right spool and frame combination?  Maybe you have a Penn 99 spool with that jigmaster frame.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Ron Jones

My Pro Gear Pacifica does the same thing when it has Jigmaster gears in it. I think it is just pinion clearance with different spools. I think if the yoke notch on the pinion were shimmed somehow to pull the pinion further to the right it would fix it, but I haven't figures out how to do that.
Ron
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

Gman

I have the same problem and I think Ron is right about pinion clearance, at least in my case.  The same thing just started happening on one of my Pro Gear 545's that I just upgraded with a stainless steel main gear and pinion.  I think I've isolated it to pinion clearance--in freespool, the new pinion appears to be rubbing slightly against the edge of the spindle fitting that the pinion grabs when the reel is put in gear.  That also is creating a slight gap (or looseness) between the right side of the frame and the spool that wasn't there before.  I noticed that the "teeth" of the pinion appear to peek out over the ring on the top of the pinion a tiny bit, which might be where the problem lies.  Does anyone know whether that excess stainless steel can be sanded or ground down a bit and, if so, how to do it?  Hopefully this will solve franky's problem as well.  Thanks much.

Gareth 

franky

Thank you all for the responses.

Yes Brian, I also wondered if it had to do with the wrong combination of spool and frame.  However, when I look at the spool as it sits in the frame, if it is tilted to the left, the spool is centered and okay.  The spool seems to fit when looking at the edge of the spool and the frame's edge.  There is no large gap for line to go inbetween nor is there lots of overlapping.  It seems to fit perfectly....when tilted to the left. 

For some reason, when I first swapped the red anniversary spool out and put the standard jigmaster black aluminum spool in, the black spool seemed to work.  Only when I speed cranked the handle, I heard a pop and then the black jigmaster spool had the 1/8th of an inch side to side space.  :-\

The bearing cap on the handle side has a metal pin that is welded or forged right in the center of the bearing cap.  If this pin was just 1/8th longer, I would have solved the problem.

I'm not sure if the pinion has anything to do with this problem (but thank you all for posting, I really appreciate all the help  :)).  The pinion just slides on the spool shaft.  In this case, I'm trying to get rid of the side to side play.  Both bearing caps are tightened all the way in and I've even put shims under the bearings and tightened the caps all the way in.  Still 1/8th side to side play.  :-\

Im wondering....did accurate make bearing caps with two different lengths of the inner pin?  One long...one short?

Gman

This probably won't help you, as your primary problem is the side-to-side play, but your observation regarding it not likely being the pinion turned out to be the case for me.  Instead, it turned out that the spool on my PG 545 was rubbing against the Penn 113H bridge that I had installed to accommodate the AT SS sleeve.  Turns out that the original PG bridge is tapered at the edge and the Penn bridge is not.  A little buffing down with a Dremel rotary tool did the trick and my spool is now spinning freely (and without excess movement).  Good luck with solving your issue and Happy 4th of July!

angelh

This post might be to old, I can't tell because of no date on the page. You probably need a high speed spool, like for a 99 or a 505HS Because those spools have a longer spool shaft on the handle side...