Fun with Mitchell Spinning Reels: formerly Mitchell Madness + 304 parts request

[newfuturevintage]

The Gyro Effect:  Uneven line spooling on the Mitchell 300:

example:

the spool on the left is nice and uniform, and from the 301 above.  The spool on the right is decidedly top-heavy, and from a 300.  Reminds me of the vertical rotisseries used in middle-eastern restaurants, hence, The Gyro Effect:



How does one go about getting the reel that spooled the right spool to do so evenly?

Both spools are the same type of line spooled in the same manner (using the reel, obviously, not a spooling machine).

Thanks!

Ron

[Bryan Young]

Hi Ron,

If you take the spool assembly apart, between the spool and the spool base there is a washer there.  the one on the right needs a washer that is a little thicker to move the spool upwards a tad.  It's hard to know how much though.  I haven't figured out a calculation that could be used for this...more trial and error.

[Dominick]

Hi Ron,
  I haven't figured out a calculation that could be used for this...more trial and error.

How come, I thought you were an engineer?    Dominick

[Bryan Young]

I am an engineer, but I get paid to break things to validate that safety is designed into the product. 

[newfuturevintage]

I am an engineer, but I get paid to break things to validate that safety is designed into the product. 

Getting paid to break things is my platonic ideal of employment.  Why, I do it for free now!

Is this washer a drag washer, or just a simple spacer? 
IE: do I need to be using something either Mitchell and/or appropriate for a drag assembly here, or is something simply non-corroding fine if it fits? 

And, are we talking part #130 in the lower left of this diagram?
http://www.reeldr.com/home/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/MITCHELL-300-3011969.pdf

Thanks!

Ron

[Alto Mare]

The spool lip on the left is appro. 1/8" thicker, the line travels up and down 1/8" less than the spool on the right. If you add  thicker thrust washer when using the spool on the right it should even out.

[Bryan Young]

I am an engineer, but I get paid to break things to validate that safety is designed into the product. 

Getting paid to break things is my platonic ideal of employment.  Why, I do it for free now!

Is this washer a drag washer, or just a simple spacer? 
IE: do I need to be using something either Mitchell and/or appropriate for a drag assembly here, or is something simply non-corroding fine if it fits? 

And, are we talking part #130 in the lower left of this diagram?
http://www.reeldr.com/home/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/MITCHELL-300-3011969.pdf

Thanks!

Ron

Yes Ron, That's it.  I use greased carbon fiber washers at that point but with the drag setting of that reel, Teflon would be fine.  Maybe Delrin also.

I don't have any spools in stock anymore so I cannot definitively tell you what thickness are in the spools.  I gave them away to a kid that was using his grandpa's reels, and though he could use them.

[Dominick]

Ron when you get it so that the spool loads evenly measure the width of the washers and send the measurement to the engineer.    Dominick

[newfuturevintage]

Ron when you get it so that the spool loads evenly measure the width of the washers and send the measurement to the engineer.    Dominick

Man, you're gonna make me finally buy a micrometer, aren't you?

[newfuturevintage]

Yes Ron, That's it.  I use greased carbon fiber washers at that point but with the drag setting of that reel, Teflon would be fine.  Maybe Delrin also.

I don't have any spools in stock anymore so I cannot definitively tell you what thickness are in the spools.  I gave them away to a kid that was using his grandpa's reels, and though he could use them.

Cool, thanks!

I'm actually doing pretty much the same thing that the kid you gave those washers is doing: revamping my Grandparents' old mitchells and fishing 'em!

[RowdyW]

newventure, buy a caliper instead of a micrometer. Inexpensive ones can be purchased at Harbor Freight.    RUDY

[Aiala]

When I cleaned and spruced up my 302 last weekend, I found that same (or very similar) brass clip in my grease rag. Doesn't show up in the 302 schematic, or at least not cleanly enough to be recognized in any of the scanned schematics I found online. It had some striations parallel to the long dimension of the clip, so I figured it must have come from a moving part. The only place it fit was clipped around one side of oscillation guide 81414. It seems to be a thin shim to get rid of the tiny amount of play in the guide. I could be wrong, but I'd bet this is what you've got there.

Sounds right... I'll bet that's it. Good job! 

Not that I'm going to open up my reel, though... it's fine the way it is. Question: Did you put the little clip back in your oscillation guide? 

~A~

[foakes]

If that is what it is -- you should consider putting it back in your reel, Aiala.

Grease it up good.

It appears to be a stronger metal than the oscillation guide -- and would tighten up any slop, as well as allow more longevity -- particularly under heavy ocean conditions.

Good spotting, NF Vintage!

Best,

Fred

[newfuturevintage]

Sounds right... I'll bet that's it. Good job! 

Not that I'm going to open up my reel, though... it's fine the way it is. Question: Did you put the little clip back in your oscillation guide? 

I did, actually.  But I got lucky and hadn't buttoned up the reel when I found the part.  I did have to straighten out mine a little as I'd bent its corners a little, but the flat with the striations was fine.

Like yours, the reel worked fine without the clip, but had a titch of lateral play in the spool that increased as the spool reached the height of oscillation.  The clip reduced that play nicely!

[newfuturevintage]

Revisiting this thread, and back to the original photo of the 6 reels.

The off-topic daiwa: I found an arm on ebay that I best-offered down to around $5 or $6 shipped, and it completely did the trick.  Did a little surf casting for perch on it a few weeks back; it's a fun reel for that.  Not sure that it was really intended for salt, but it's easy enough to clean up/ not so precious that I'll not use it in the surf when going for small fish.  Woot, a win!

The 300: man, this thing is smooth.  Just a little oil, and it's the smoothest of the 4 I've got.  The body's fairly ugly, so it'll become a kayak trolling reel: ie: if it goes overboard and my rod-float fails, that's fine, another win!

The 301: have yet to replace the spool post, but have it waiting in the wings. Will be simple enough to do when the time presents itself.

The 304: with the oscillation slide Fred sent (thanks, Fred!), it's working like a champ.  Fished with it fairly extensively last weekend pitching kastmasters at Lake Collins.  Caught nothing with it, but it's fun to work with a reel this dead-simple.

The 408: the only one left in the lot that needs love: the bail-stop is weak.  When the bail's open for casting, any moderate cast has enough force to flip the bail closed. 

It seems three parts could cause this, either in part or in whole:
the spring (81 294) pushing the bail stop into the bail's lock-slot could be weak
the bail stop (81 296) could be rounded,
as could the lock-slot on the bail (near the bail spring) itself. 

Any thoughts on this? 


Thanks,

Ron