Long Beach 66 Question

Started by JoePlo, February 04, 2015, 12:26:15 AM

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JoePlo

Repairing a reel for a buddy. Normal process I take it apart and then hit the schematic to compare. In doing so, I found 2 differences. Wondering if the configuration was correct or it someone had taken apart previously and rearranged some things.

Issue 1: Under the star, there was this tension spring. In the schematic, it does not exist. Should it be there?



Issue 2: When the drag was pulled apart it looked like this. The schematic shows drag washer/metal/drag washer/metal/drag washer/metal. Here I have Drag washer/Metal/Drag washer/Metal/Fiber washer/Metal.

Plan on replacing with HT-100. Just curious about why it is set up so different.



Other pictures. Looks like it spent time at the bottom of the sea.




fIsHsTiiCkS

For the tension spring under the star, you dont need it as long as you have one on top of the stack like you are showing in your second pic. Also, some of the older drag configurations had the fiber washer, just swap it out with the HT-100's and it will be working great. That reel has seen some harsh conditions, but restoring it will be a pleasure.

Bryan Young

The tension spring washer may be above or below the spacer, or may not be needed at all.  the tension spring washer helps at lower drag settings.  At higher drag settings, the tension spring washer flattens out and it becomes a spacer.  I like to place the tension spring washer within the sideplate if possible.  This helps put forces on the drag stack from the center to the outside of the drag stack instead at the pressure at the center. 

That reel has been well used or stored.   ;D  I soak those parts in CLR or similar type of cleaner just to clean off the corrosion.  Dip in corrosionX, wipe and assemble.  I would replace the front most top bar with a new bar because the pitting of the top bar when and if the line hits it may cut the line under pressure.

Whomever I have serviced your reels, you will notice that I will always choose the smoothest bar and place it on the front or change the bar out with a new one for this very fact.

Another option is to replace all bars and reels seat with new parts, sand or sand blast, powder coat,... whatever suits your fancy.

Good luck and HAVE FUN.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Shark Hunter

The metal washer with the ears on it goes in the middle of the stack. It should go fiber washer, metal keyed, fiber washer, metal eared, then fiber washer, metal keyed, then the spacer on top. I would replace those fiber washers with HT-100's. 6-60's
Life is Good!

Aiala

Quote from: Bryan Young on February 04, 2015, 12:51:04 AM
Another option is to replace all bars and reels seat with new parts...

I just did that (plus a bunch of other stuff) on a very old Long Beach 68. Cost me a fair amount, but man, it HUMMMMS (and looks) like new! Worth every penny.  ;D

~A~
I don't suffer from insanity... I enjoy every minute of it!  :D

Bryan Young

Quote from: Shark Hunter on February 04, 2015, 12:57:13 AM
The metal washer with the ears on it goes in the middle of the stack. It should go fiber washer, metal keyed, fiber washer, metal eared, then fiber washer, metal keyed, then the spacer on top. I would replace those fiber washers with HT-100's. 6-60's
Good catch.  I missed that.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

JoePlo

Thanks sounds good. I was just soaking posts in vinegar and was thinking they are pretty much to the point of replacement. Bought that cleaning grade vinegar and it strips off all the green pretty good.

RowdyW

If you replace the washers with 6-60's you will need 1 more earred washer & 1 more keyed washer for a 5+1 stack.

Keta

Your metal washers are wrong too, they should be CF, Keyed, CF, eared, CF, keyed.  The metal washers always start with the keyed washer and alternate. 

When a eared washer is on the first CF washer in the gear the washer turns with the gear and the CF washer does nothing.

If he has any left I'd suggest installing one of Bryan's sets, they work great in my Surfmasters and the 5-66 gear will take more washers.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

Bryan Young

For that reel, I would recommend Penn's HT-100 5 stack drag kit for that gear.  with my set, I cannot get a 7 stack in the drag kit and the my 5 stack is too short for that gear.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Keta

But they are sweet!  I put some of the first ones I got in my "Grouper Special".
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

Shark Hunter

I see now he has that Tall Steel Gear. I don't mean to bring any confusion, but I notice the plate is not the open style quick change I normally see with that gear. I tried that gear in a plate like that and it rubbed. That must be an older model gear with a different plate. A new 5 stack with 6-60's will make that thing a Beast.
If you run into any problems with that gear rubbing the plate Joe, let me know.
Life is Good!

Alto Mare

#12
Bryan is right, some reels do have the tension spring under the star, on that size reel I like mine on the inside.
He mentioned that you don't really need it, I disagree, a tension spring does good things to the drag stack...just my opinion.
You should have no problem with the gears rubbing in that plate, the 66-67 and 68 were made to accept that tall gear.
Bryan's kit of seven will fit just fine, you should actually have some room left, but I don't recommend it, I would do as RowdyW mentioned.
Scott's doesn't show the 5:1 set, they're only showing the 3:1...don't ask me why :-\. The 5:1 will fit with no problems.
Fishstiicks recommended replacing the fiber washer for under the gear, I agree, but not on his choice of material, there you would do much better with a Delrin washer. Again, just my opinions.
Enjoy your build.

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Bryan Young

Quote from: Alto Mare on February 04, 2015, 05:52:03 AM
Bryan's kit of seven will fit just fine, you should actually have some room left, but I don't recommend it, I would do as RowdyW mentioned.
Sal, you got my washer to fit 7?  I tried it on my 113 gear and I couldn't fit 7 in the gear...maybe I was using a different Carbontex washer at the time...I'll check it out this weekend as I'm on my way to Dallas tomorrow.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Keta

#14
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 04, 2015, 02:50:23 PM
Sal, you got my washer to fit 7?  I tried it on my 113 gear and I couldn't fit 7 in the gear...maybe I was using a different Carbontex washer at the time

When I "must have" 2 more washers in a drag stack and the top eared washer is slightly high I make special eared washer for the top one. The top eared washer must be partly in the gear to do this.

I cut eared washers with long ears then round off the ears on one side, not one ear but one side of each ear.  Then I put the long eared washer between 1/4" thick special washer with a bolt holding them together tight.  Now either tap the ears down with a UHMW punch or use another "special" washer and a clamp to bend the ears.  

So far I've only done this for one other person and it requires the reel in my shop to hand fit the washer.  Using .020 CF and metal washers eliminate the need for this.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain