Protruding stand screws on my 501...

[alantani]

if i can get the length of the screws, i can see what i have.  you may have to cut those, though......

[Dominick]

See, size does matter.    Dominick

[Marcq]

See, size does matter.    Dominick

Marc..

[Alto Mare]

See, size does matter.    Dominick

Sorry Dominick...

[Shark Hunter]

  You two are always good for a Laugh!
Nice Reel Aiala! If you want, just take those screws out. Put them in an envelope and send them to me. I'll cut them down for you and send them back.

[Dominick]

You two are always good for a Laugh!
Nice Reel Aiala! If you want, just take those screws out. Put them in an envelope and send them to me. I'll cut them down for you and send them back.

Aiala, all kidding aside.  I have an electric wire stripper that has screw holes in it to lop off screws without hurting the threads.  That means that there is a tool out there that will allow you shorten screws if there is not a hole size in the wire stripper.  Check at your local HD or OSH.  Dominick

[Islandgypsy]

In last post said providing screws, meant PROTRUDING screws backlash would find. These should be 5-40. Length from seated head to just peeking out from frame and I can drop 2-3 in an envelope. Have most Penn or Newell screws ever used if you don't have some on the way. -GB

[Aiala]

Gents, thanks for all the advice, suggestions and offers... You're the best!

Okay, so first off, Lee the Wise was absolutely right about the 39-5 screws... they fit the tail-side plate perfectly! The handle-side, though, remains a problem.

I do have a Dremel, but I don't know how to cut metal screws and frankly the thought of attempting it makes me a bit uneasy, so instead I tried to figure out what size (Penn) screws I could use. I compared the overlong screw with a 39-5:



After much pondering, I deduced that I need one that is ¾ of an inch long rather than 7/8, so I went hunting on Scott's site and found something called a 31-10:



Since a guy just happened to be selling a pair of 31-10s on fleaBay, I went ahead and bought them. They should be here no later than Monday, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they'll fit. Worst case, I'm out a couple of bucks, in which case I'll take someone up on their kind offer.

Although it's a bit troublesome, I actually like puzzling over this kind of stuff... especially if it works! Keeps my aging brain on its toes.     

~A~

[Keta]

Penn used 4 lengths per reel for most of the sideplate screws.  The handle side were longer due to the thicker side plate, and the stand screws on both sides were shorter than the others on the same side to keep from protruding through the stand.

What I do is use the non handle side longer screws (second longest) on my metal framed reels.  Does this make sense?

I hear ya about old timers disease.

[alantani]

aiala, i'm sending down a mixed assortment of 5-40 hex head and fillister head machine screws to try with this and future projects.  hopefully you will find something here that is close.  likely you will still have to do some cutting.   

[foakes]

Sometimes it is unavoidable to cut screws -- when I need to, this is my easy technique:

Mark where I want to cut the screw so it will not protrude
Remove the screw
Put the screw in a vise
Thread a stainless steel nut onto the screw
Cut the marked end with a Dremel cut off disc
Dress the jagged end with a file & wire wheel carefully, and until the tip is smooth
Take a deep socket and ratchet or T-Bar to remove the nut a few times until smooth and easy where you cut

That's it...

Yes, I have tap & die sets -- but this is dead simple -- and only takes a couple of minutes.

I have tried other techniques including belt sanders, grinders, cutters -- but this works well for me.

Best,

Fred

[Three se7ens]

Let me get some pictures of the process, and I'll write a little how-to on cutting screws and dressing threads.  Putting a nut on before you cut it will smooth the threads enough to use it, but there are better ways that are not hard. 

[BMITCH]

Let me get some pictures of the process, and I'll write a little how-to on cutting screws and dressing threads.  Putting a nut on before you cut it will smooth the threads enough to use it, but there are better ways that are not hard. 

I think that would be great to see!

[bluefish69]

I use old Bridge Plates. Just let the piece stick out that you want to remove. Threads come out clean but I still check for burrs.

Mike

[Alto Mare]

There is no need to do any cutting, as mentioned above from me and Jason, McMasters Carr has many sized available that should work with that reel. These High-Profile Fillister Head Machine Screws are available in 7 sizes:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91794A128