Pelagic Extreme (Omoto) Q16-II reel, take apart pictures

Started by Reinaard van der Vossen, January 08, 2011, 06:58:32 PM

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Reinaard van der Vossen

I've got the reel mentioned in the Subject since yesterday but as a newcomer to this board thought I could contribute by taking my reel apart and make pictures of it.

Although advertised as such there are no markings of Omoto on the real itself. From the pictures it looks like the omoto.

OK, the pictures are terrible. They are made with the compact of my wife as I broke my better camera. I will try to make new ones. I also see tha the board does not resize automatically so I will resize the new set by hand.

I deleted the pictures and will make new ones, these were useless

edit 9 jan: I tried again but all the close ups fail, even in daylight. I'll post the overview


Black Pearl

Hi,

This is OMOTO made. The Q- were made for the Quailia company in CA USA few years back, but things did not work out between OMOTO and Quailia companies. OMOTO had to sell all those back stock for Quailia, so Pelagic in AU took most of the Quailia's old orders. I believe that Pelagic in AU would not sell the Q-16 to USA.

Anyway, if I remember that the handle bar is as strong as the new model of Poseidon S-16 II. They are very easy to bent. Other than that, it is a very strong reel. You should test out the max drag power you can get from it. You will need a picture to prove that.....LOL

You will not believe that...

 

Reinaard van der Vossen

Yesterday I tried to pre-set the drags of the Omoto reel. I would like the strike drag to be 18 pounds and the full drag to 25 pounds. The values were reached (quite easily) but the line is burrying itself in the spool. I had to reduce the drag from the initial setting more than 6 times to reach the figures i wanted

I used a simple method where a friend is holding the measuring scale and doing the reading of the scale and I would back-up with the rod and reel. I know that this is not a perfect method but for now it will do. The measuring scale is not ideal because it can measure up to 50 kg (approx 100 pounds) so the measurement will not be very precise.

I already spooled the dyneema under tension but I am afraid that it is not spooled under sufficient tension. The line is a 40 pound test dyneema (which i have sent to paulus fishing in Australia for testing and breaks at 53 pounds under ideal conditions).

Nevertheles the line is to thin and I think I'll have problems with the line burrying in the spool even when I re-spool it with more tension. I have ordered 65lb power pro line which is a little thicker and as the reel seems to be able to give more drag than I currently require (you'l never know when you need it) a little extra does not seem to hurt.

Also: dyneema breaks easily with the wrong knot. I made a simple knot first because I was not going near the breaking strain of the line. It broke at less than 20 pounds near the knot. Then I made a complex aussi plait knot and there was no problem. (bimini twist knot seems to be better still)

to be continued.....

Bryan Young

Hello Reinaard,

When spooling spectra, you should put tension at least of the tension you will be using for fishing.  This will ensure that the line is compact and tight, and the line will not groove into the lower layers of the line.  I personally like to use the tension equal to half the line strength, if at all possible.  With that said, I would not expect switching lines will help.

Unfortunately, I have not found a good winder that can actually accomplish this, and even the great winders needs help.  Looking to make a line winder using gear reducers.  Sure, it will probably take me 20-30 minutes to spool a reel, but the lower gearing will allow greater torque; and therefore, tighter tension.

Something to consider.

Bryan
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Reinaard van der Vossen

Bryan,

I thought of that. The larger Ryobi reel is not full. I will spool the new 65 lb line on the ryobi first and then spool it onto the omoto under appropriate tension. If I would not have a spare reel I would not know how to do it but I think it will work this way.

Reinaard van der Vossen

#5
I did this procedure yesterday evening with my Omoto VS 10. First wind the line on the large ryobi from the VS 10 under strike drag setting. After that set the drag of the large Ryobi to 10 pounds (which is not even full drag for the VS10) and spool the line onto the omoto VS 10 again. With  slightly less than 400 meters this is quite a job and I was sweating like an ox. The ryoby was too hot to touch when I was done (and I was too :))

I learned two things: spooling the Omoto Q16 with something like 25 pounds will be a task I don't look forward to and secondly: the Ryobi cannot even take a slow run of 400 meters (with stops to catch a breath)  without getting hot. I will not use it for anything else than spooling other reels. It is definitely outdated for big game fish.

This guy is not looking forward to spool the Q16 with 600 meters under 25 pounds of drag.

I definitely are not going to purchase a Q80/penn 130/tiagra 130 or anything similar. I cannot handle the drag anyway :P . I think a modern 50 size reel nowadays gives you more drag than you can handle (most give in excess of 50 pounds)

How do you guys take so much drag when wheeling in big fish

Edit: I realize that winding against the strike drag for the complete length of the line might not be a normal fishing situation (except maybe with a tuna that is way too big for the gear)

SoCalAngler

Quote from: Reinaard van der Vossen on May 06, 2011, 06:03:39 PM
How do you guys take so much drag when wheeling in big fish

Edit: I realize that winding against the strike drag for the complete length of the line might not be a normal fishing situation (except maybe with a tuna that is way too big for the gear)

Reinaard,
For our Southern California long range (stand up style) fishing for big cow sized tuna most use a 50 sized reel with spectra as backing and mono or flouro topshots of 75 feet in length or in most cases shorter. These reels are hardly ever set as high 40lbs of drag at strike and somewhere between 25-35lbs is more typical even when using heavier topshots like 200lb.

mackereljoe

I do the same thing since the local tackle shops around me seems to really dislike putting the required pressure.  Everytime i spool with spectra the family thinks i'm pretend fishing because I do the same thing.  Place the spectra in a reel with tension from a family member and re-spool with heavy tension.  The 2 inch pipe is burried deep in the ground and use as the holder.  My hardest one so far is spooling 500 yards of 80#, darn thing took me about an hour and a pint of sweat.  A kolekar handle would have alleviate some wrist pain. 

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Bryan Young

I hear ya on the spooling.  I'm still looking for a good, used, geared motor that will spin at higher torque to spool reels with spectra.  It may take an hour, but it could be wound on tight.  Unfortunately, most geared motors I have found have 60 or less RPMs (which would take hours to spool a reel.  I am looking for one that is at least 300 RPMs.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Reinaard van der Vossen

Bryan,

Would a electric starter for a motorcycle do the job? Plenty of torque depending on the size of the starter.

Look at the electric reels foor deep drop fishing, for the larger reels approx 300 watts power is sufficient. If the speed is too then you can go for a comparable motorcycle/lawnmower starter if youré in for a cost efficient solution.

I think that the difficulty will be how to proper connect the spool with that amounts of torque.

wallacewt

electric downrigger,some of them can lift a 15lb ball?

Bryan Young

Quote from: Reinaard van der Vossen on May 12, 2011, 08:40:21 PM
Bryan,

Would a electric starter for a motorcycle do the job? Plenty of torque depending on the size of the starter.

Look at the electric reels foor deep drop fishing, for the larger reels approx 300 watts power is sufficient. If the speed is too then you can go for a comparable motorcycle/lawnmower starter if youré in for a cost efficient solution.

I think that the difficulty will be how to proper connect the spool with that amounts of torque.

Considered starter motors, but they are not continuous duty motor, and will burn out before the first eeel is spooled.  Found a geared motor, 350 W, 120/240 V, geared reduced to operate at 120 RPMs.  I was about to purchase it to try it out, but I spaced, and forgot about it until today, and it was gone. 

Quote from: wallacewt on May 13, 2011, 12:32:24 AM
electric downrigger,some of them can lift a 15lb ball?

One of my friends uses his Scotty's with 25# downrigger balls.v
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Reinaard van der Vossen

Bryan,

You're correct that a starter is not for continuous use. However, they use them in the 100kg and up fighting robots for robot wars and they keep up way longer as expected if you don't have to crank-up an engine.  Example of one with 2 starters although they changed the design later (http://www.easytreasure.co.uk/robots.htm)

The motors in the deep drop electric reels look like starters although I'm not sure of that and some of them have over 50 LB pull with reasonable speed.

On the other hand the construction might be more of a challenge. I was thinking of an old column drill with pully's and a belt to change speeds. Often they can go low rpm (275 rpm etc) and the drilling head is very sturdy. You could probably fix the axis of your spool much easier and fix the housing of the reel much easier on the "table" You can also use the column to fix the reel wihich will be giving the line under pressure.

I mean something like this: http://www.epple.co.uk/drilling-machines-c-1.html   but you can often buy very good old machines at a scrap price

Now how did we get from a cute little Omoto reel to robot wars and column drilling machines ;D

Reinaard van der Vossen

Yesterday I've spooled new fishing line on the Omoto Q16. I've ordered and received a spool of 500 Yards 65 LB Hi vis yellow powerpro line. Now I do not think that this reel needs a line as strong as 65 lb, I think something like 30-40lb line might be enough but the lines are so thin that you can get into trouble with the line burying in the spool at high drags.

I've spooled a base of 80 yards Penn 65 lb mono (0,65 mm) and the powerpro braid on top of that. It was my intention to spool the line under 20-25 lb of drag as the reel can do something like 30 lb at full drag (or maybe even 40 lb as some claim).

As I spool the new line under drag BY HAND it soon became clear that this was and extreme task and I had to adjust my wishes. I reduced the drag to 15 lb and could only use the low gearing.

It took some sweat before finalizing but I managed and the whole 500 yards of braid fitted on the reel easily. There is still room for a smal mono topshot as well. I'm surprised on how much line you can get onto the reel under drag.

Now: I have an 16 lb class reel with an 65 lb fishing line and a 50 lb rod and although I would say that the rod (Penn overseas boat travel 50LB) is not " really"  a 50 lb rod I'm wondering whether I have a setup wich is less balanced as could be.

I used to think that th e 3-3-3 rule was a good starting point where the line should have a breaking strength 3 times as big as the possible drag and you could catch fish upto three times the breaking strength of the line but that now slow seems to be old fashioned and a rough order of magnitude rule that no longer applies with the modern stuff.