Heads-up: Penn 113H early clicker side bearings

[Taily]

Checked and wanted to purchase a few LH side (clicker side) bearings for my 113H from Mystic Reel Parts only to find that they are no longer available (the smaller ones that suit the maroon bakelite plates - not the later red plastic plates which take a larger bearing). I eventually tracked down a few off eBay so have enough, however I am now looking at ways in the future I can actually get those pesky bearings out of that housing. There seems to be another pressed spacer on top of the installed bearing in the housing. What do you guys and girls recommend as to how to get that spacer and the bearing itself (which is easy to come by from Boca etc) out of that housing?

Regards,

Dave  

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

[Norcal Pescador]

After I removed the bearing cap assembly from the side plate, I used a penn wrench that had the screwdriver end bent over [and filed the shoulders off] and used it to pull off the cover ring/spacer. It's in there pretty tight. Then it was easy to hook a dental pick or smaller L-shaped tool in to remove the bearing. It's a pretty standard Abec-5 bearing - Smoothdrag or Boca Bearing will have them. Getting the ring/spacer back in is straightforward.

Rob

[Taily]

Thanks for that Rob!

[alantani]

jim nomura made me a bearing puller that works great.  otherwise, use a bent piece of stainless steel welding rod that is ground down to fit. 

[Taily]

Thanks Alan, I'll give that a go later tonight (Oz time). I'll flick you an email when those (eagerly awaited!) sleeves show up down here!

[alantani]

guys, don't throw those bearing cups away.  bearings can be pulled and replaced, the cups cannot!

[Gman_WC]

Guys, whats the action I'm looking for when pulling the bearing out of the cup?
I see the bent penn wrench being ground to fit and bent at a 45 being used.
Do you just insert it and pull straight up? I'm afraid I"ll warp or damage the bearing.
I've got a narrow 113h apart and I want to have a peak inside the right side bearing.
Might as well clean it all up while apart.
-gary

[Alto Mare]

Yes Gary, you just insert it and pull straight out. Sometimes they can be stubburn and you'll  need a lot of force, when you feel a little movement rotate the tool half way and keep pulling, you don't want pressure on one side only. If you have the aluminum plates on that  113 narrow, be prepared to use lot's of force but eventually it will come out. The bearing should come out undamaged...but you never know. good luck, Sal

[Gman_WC]

The bearing cup came out easy from the side plate. There is a tiny cut out in the side of the main gear hole on this 113h that was converted to narrow on a new 15year old Seantor bought new.
I just can't seem to hold down the cup while attempting to extract the bearing.

Here's a picture. There is a slot for what i guessing to assist is gettin he bearing cup out. Not sure why, as it just pushes in from outer plate.


I'm afraid that vise grips would deform the cup. 
-gary

[Alto Mare]

Gary, I don't understand about the cut out in the side of the main gear hole. About the bearing cup, you need to use your imagination. You can't apply pressure on the sides, it will work against you. You need to figure a way to hold the side wall of the cup from the top while pulling the bearing, try vise-grip pliers. Place the bearing on a towel, set the vise-grip at the right gap and hold it on the bearing shield while pulling. A straight  jaw might not work, you might have to customize something, just don't get too deep into it, a new bearing with shield is around $20. try soaking it for a day and give it another shot. Hang tight, someone esle might have a better idea.



Gary, as usual I read too fast. If you only wanted to take a peak and the bearing was working fine, I would just soak it  in TSI 301 and put it back. I wouldn't worry about removing the shield unless I had too.

[Bryan Young]

Is the bearing still good?  In some cases where you want to lube the bearing, I've taken a bottle similar to the ReelX and put the tip in the center of the bearing.  The trick is that you need to seal the center part of the bearing with tip of the bottle.  Then squeeze force the lubicant in the bearing.  You will see bubbles coming from the bearing then straight lubricant.  I allow the bottle to suck up excess lubricant and repeat another 2 time ('cause I like the number 3). 

[Gman_WC]

Bryan, Are the stock bearings from Penn packed with grease already or just lubed?
I'm not sure I want to mix grease with Corrosion-X. This reel is about 15 years old.
Thanks -gary

[Alto Mare]

Gary, I didn't mean for you to use the vise-grip to hold the bearing cup, I meant for you to rest it on top of the flange so you can pull the bearing. The cut out is on all the 113H plates that is where I grab the bearing cup with the needle nose pliers after I push it from the other side with my finger.
gary, you just brought up the perfect exaple of why we need  a tool that I mentioned on bearing puller under tools, I just tried it on mine and it came right out.
I'm trying to get someone to manufacture it fo us, it is a life saver. ReelSpeed is interested, we'll see how it goes.

[Gman_WC]

Sal, That would be nice if a standard tool was made. I know I'd be first in line for one. Bearing and cup all got a good dose
of CorrosionX today. I"ll try it again again in the morning. I'll try your idea of holding it down.
Thanks -gary

[Bryan Young]

Bryan, Are the stock bearings from Penn packed with grease already or just lubed?
I'm not sure I want to mix grease with Corrosion-X. This reel is about 15 years old.
Thanks -gary

Gary,  Don't worry about mixing corrosionX with the grease.  It will not hurt it.  If the grease is in the bearing, it's probably pushed aside in areas that are not having any function by now.

This is only if you cannot get the bearing out to properly lube it.

Bryan