Penn Fathom 15 star drag ?

[Big Tim]

Not that it needed servicing at all, but I was bored the other day and stripped my Penn Fathom 15 star drag down to open and lube the spool bearings, clean and re grease everything. When I put it back together I noticed that with the star backed off all the way there was still a bit of drag. This was not present before. I have re checked this 4 times and I know I'm right on the assembly (even followed youtube video). My thinking is that the spring washer/bellvile on the handle side was never installed to achieve max drag.

What say you.

BT

[Dominick]

Send it out for repair.     Dominick

[Big Tim]

Send it out for repair.     Dominick

Can I legally do that Dom.

[SoCalAngler]

From my understanding is that Penn ships the Fathom, Torque, Squall and other reels with the full drag capacities/belleville at their max for the most drag. In their reels if you want lighter drags is when you start to reconfigure the belleville washers. Not to say your reel didn't come with a lighter drag stack configuration but they should not come stock from the factory with anything other the max drag config for the belleville washers.

[johndtuttle]

If the tolerances are nice and tight a generous greasing of the stack will make it a little larger. Until you really crank it down on a big fish it may have excess in the stack. Nothing to worry about if you have good free spool.

[Porthos]

Not that it needed servicing at all, but I was bored...

Being "bored" was the first domino to calamity! 

Seriously, I've noticed that this happens a lot with many of my rebuilds even though the stack height of the new, DRY drag stack is approximately the same as the old drag stack being replaced. It becomes less of an issue, as John said, after the reels have their drags tighten down for a few good sessions.

[handi2]

I have seen them new with the bellvilles both ways () and ((.

[Fish-aholic]

Either remove the highlighted belleville washer altogether - or lessen the curvature of it. It sits on top of the star drags clicker plate. This alteration will gain the loose drag setting you desire. Personally I mic it first then I slightly flatten its curvature with a pair of universal pliers.

I'm surprised to see that star drag clicker tongue in one piece. I see a lot of these succumb to metal fatigue and lose this clicking feature upon adjustment. Not the end of the world losing this feature, but it's one I like to remain functional.

[Fish-aholic]

I have seen them new with the bellvilles both ways () and ((.

This is the arrangement I see: () clicker plate ).

The two belleville washers have to be () on this reel, otherwise the tongue of the clicker plate can grind against the lip of the right side plates receptacle when operator is searching for a locked out drag (pulling from a snag). 

[Ron Jones]

What is that white plastic spring loaded contraption on the left?
Ron

[Fish-aholic]

That is the a centrifugal brake plate and it houses spring loaded brake blocks/pucks. These can be activated/deactivated depending on necessity of spool control. If you have owned/serviced a Shimano Trinidad/Torium in the 14 sizes, the braking system is the same but without the spring loading.

The spool has to generate enough RPM's to counter the pre-tension of the springs for the b/blocks to nestle against the brake ring housed in the LH side plate to create friction i.e. cast control. This is why when bench testing freespool, the spool revolves for a long time even without line because it cannot counter the springs pre-tension so revolves friction free. 

[Ron Jones]

That is the a centrifugal brake plate and it houses spring loaded brake blocks/pucks. These can be activated/deactivated depending on necessity of spool control. If you have owned/serviced a Shimano Trinidad/Torium in the 14 sizes, the braking system is the same but without the spring loading.

The spool has to generate enough RPM's to counter the pre-tension of the springs for the b/blocks to nestle against the brake ring housed in the LH side plate to create friction i.e. cast control. This is why when bench testing freespool, the spool revolves for a long time even without line because it cannot counter the springs pre-tension so revolves friction free. 

And that is why I use an Albacore Special.
Thanks
Ron

[mike1010]

Tim, did you seat the drag washers by tightening the star and pulling some line against the drag, tightening some more and and pulling again?

Mike

[Fish-aholic]

I hope the OP doesn't mind but I want to take the time to forewarn members/guests who may practise long distance surfcasting (bait & wait) about the design flaw of these centrifugal brake plates. I can only speak for those palm sized FTH 12 & 15 reels.

Here's what is wrong with this centrifugal brake plate design that many people here in the UK have experienced: 

There are six spring loaded brake blocks/pucks which can be activated or deactivated via a snap function. The problem consistently arising from those who can generate enough distance/rpm's of the spool, is that any deactivated b/blocks can activate themselves whilst bait is in flight. This then causes the reel to become docile sacrificing distance from too much friction applied.

To combat this self-activation I have had to remove four b/blocks out of six leaving two behind as a casting aid. These are positioned to oppose one another in the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock position, yet another issue arises. The b/blocks now suffer from premature wear due to the friction implemented from nestling against the accommodating brake ring. The b/blocks will either wear excessively where they become too short to reach the brake ring - or will totally disintegrate into fibres and be strewn all over the internals of the LH side plate. This premature wear causes the reel to become unruly therefore causing birds nests/crows nests. Not great for those who want consistent braking cast after cast.

To remedy this issue I have been installing b/blocks from other branded reels with great success (Shimano & Abu fibre b/blocks). Others are taking the route of purchasing aftermarket knobby mag units at greater cost. IMO, consumers should not have to find remedies for a flawed product that does not do what it says on the tin. 

In the many FTH 12 & 15's I frequently service, I have seen the internals have been revised from the first generation with several changes. It's a shame the above centrifugal braking issue has been swept under the carpet and taken away from Penn's hands to be looked into and revised. 

[Fish-aholic]

I have seen them new with the bellvilles both ways () and ((.

This is the arrangement I see: () clicker plate ).

The two belleville washers have to be () on this reel, otherwise the tongue of the clicker plate can grind against the lip of the right side plates receptacle when operator is searching for a locked out drag (pulling from a snag). 

Images of the only reel I have come across with the belleville washer orientation as ((







This reel came to me after it was serviced by a 'specialist' reel repairer. My friend complained about binding issues when in search of more drag to pull traces out from rough ground snags and this is what I found.

If it's not the (( arrangement, then it must of been the poor instillation of the SD click spring