Servicing a Penn Senator 118 (16/0)

[redsetta]

That's some class work Lee.
It's turning into a great thread.
Cheers, Justin

[Makule]

Thanks SP - that's what I figured.

How will you mount it? Weld?

Albert raises a good point here.
I tried unsuccessfully to re-press a loose post - ended up breaking it.
Welding's an option, but overheating can cause the S/S to become brittle.
Tapping and screwing would probably be the easiest solution.
I definitely like the idea of all S/S internals though!
And particularly like Alan's idea of more teeth on the gear sleeve.
Interesting thread lads, cheers.
All the best, Justin

My question was more for the purpose of laying out the dimensions of the post.  The original post (actually, all Senator posts that I've seen) are pressed on.  "Pressed on" meaning the shaft has a 3/8" base (it's only about 1/8" thick and sits on the plate) that is then reduced to 1/4" (see right end of shaft).  The plate has a 1/4" hole into which the shaft sits.  The protruding 1/4" piece is then pressed so that it squashes the 1/4" section, making it expand in the hole, and then flared so that the remaining portion is smashed over the plate.  This give vertical and horizontal stability.



To press the shaft onto the plate, one must have an "anvil" which is a solid piece into which a 1/4" hole is drilled.  The shaft is placed into the hole (the left side goes in first, so it will stop at the 3/8" section) and the plate fitted onto the shaft.  The shaft is then smashed with a press to fix the shaft into place.

[Squirmypug]

I have a hydraulic piston mounted in a press, I could make an anvil from 3/8 plate.I don't know if the piston is strong enough to do this. All I have to do is pull a lever to use the press so that would be easy if it is strong enough.Also not sure if the 3/8 plate is strong enough, might have to double it and brace it.I think the best way is to weld it, would be very fast and simple.

[Squirmypug]

You did good on that pin Makule, what kind of SS did you use? 304, 316, 303?

[Makule]

I have a hydraulic piston mounted in a press, I could make an anvil from 3/8 plate.I don't know if the piston is strong enough to do this. All I have to do is pull a lever to use the press so that would be easy if it is strong enough.Also not sure if the 3/8 plate is strong enough, might have to double it and brace it.I think the best way is to weld it, would be very fast and simple.

I would just take something like a 1" solid rod and drill a 1/4" hole in one end and use that as the anvil.  Do not attempt to press the shaft with it standing on end as it will break the small cutout that's used to hold the pin that holds the sleeve to the shaft.  The pressure of the press must be totally held by the anvil.

[Makule]

You did good on that pin Makule, what kind of SS did you use? 304, 316, 303?

Don't know.  Someone just gave me some SS material and this was a short piece I had in the box.  Didn't think it was critical, but if someone wants something special, that shouldn't be a problem if I can get the 3/8" round stock.

[Makule]

From a collector's view....Put that 16/0 on a shelf and look at it. Don't fish it and get it all corroded.

For some people, reels are prizes in and of themselves.  For me, they're just tools, and tools are meant to be used.

[Makule]

i'm thinking that the next run of gear sleeves should have more teeth.  great post!

More teeth is great as long as it doesn't reduce the strength so much that it defeats the purpose.  I think Penn over-engineered it as I've never seen any broken ones (badly worn, but not broken).  On the other hand, I have seen quite a few stripped gears, and the sleeves were fine on those.

[Alto Mare]

That pin looks awesome, you're right about the sleeve being to loose, pin or sleeve needs to be adjusted ...if you guys come through with it.
Wow! I see a lot of talent here.
Very nice Albert  !

[Squirmypug]

If we can get someone to cut out the plate, and Makule or Keta to make the pins I would be more than happy to weld a set of them up..as long as I get one or two to keep for myself 

[snookcatcher1]

This is a beginner question, so thanks for your patience ahead of time.

I noticed that on this beautiful 16/0 rebuild - under the stainless gear sleeve a metal washer was used instead of a carbon washer.  On all the other Tutorials with Ht-100 upgrades that I've looked at a carbon washer was used.  I'm curiously wondering why a carbon washer wasn't used, and if a carbon washer was used - would it have helped strengthen the drag?  Is a carbon washer even necessary? Again, not trying to pick - just trying to learn.

This is a beautifully done rebuild!  Thanks for the detailed picks and all the helpful comments.

[Squirmypug]

Looks like he used it under the gear sleeve, that is just to keep it from moving up and down so much.The washer your thinking about would go on top of the gear sleeve and under the main gear, it should be a ht100.

[Makule]

Looks like he used it under the gear sleeve, that is just to keep it from moving up and down so much.The washer your thinking about would go on top of the gear sleeve and under the main gear, it should be a ht100.

The washer the Sal put in was to reduce the slop (up and down play) between the shaft and the sleeve.  The sleeve or shaft can be worn (likely because of inadequate or improper grease) and, depending on which it is, would need to be replaced to get it back to the way it should be.  In Sal's case, he was clever enough to just put an inexpensive washer to solve the problem.

[Makule]

If we can get someone to cut out the plate, and Makule or Keta to make the pins I would be more than happy to weld a set of them up..as long as I get one or two to keep for myself 

I can cut the shaft, and it would only need to be pressed on as I described earlier.

Someone (don't care who) still needs to send me a mailing address so I can send the shaft someplace.

[Squirmypug]

You can send it to me, will pm you. I just don't want it to go to waste/ get lost since you took the time to make it and it may be a while untill I can finish it.