Best Way? Polish German Silver

[Gfish]

Gotta 100+ yr. old collectors shelfie. Sorry, but I still have'nt figured out how ta post pics. It's one a the "Kentucky" reels, made oudda German Silver. She's got some serious rust/corrosion spots on her, that I'd like ta get ridda. Whatsa best way to do this and to give her a good overall polish? I'm mechanized with a Dremel tool and that's about it. Also, I may not be able to disassemble it. No luck so far, which leads to another question: need to find an antique screwdriver with a wide thin blade, or do I gotta make one?
Gfish

[foakes]

Hi Greg --

There are some neat and simple ways to clean, remove rust, and polish your old reel to a mirror finish.

Permanent Damage could easily occur if done the wrong way -- or using the wrong cleaners.

I sent you my private email -- if you send some pics -- I will post them for now.

You will receive more accurate and focused tips from experts worldwide with a few pics.

Plus, it will be more interesting and educational for everyone viewing your post.

Thanks!

Best,

Fred

[oc1]

I stabilize any flaking plating with a impregnated rubber bit and then polish with a cotton buff and red jeweler's rouge if a shine is desired.  There's something to be said for the original patina as well.
-steve

[foakes]

Here are Gregg's reel pics --

Hopefully, some experts on here like Ted, Mike, John, or Chad will help out here.

CAUTION GREGG!

You likely already know -- but this is a valuable reel.

Well worth doing it right yourself, getting good advice, or if the least bit unsure -- letting an expert do the restoration.

Key here is extreme -- proper screwdrivers, slow and easy, gentle solutions such as soaking parts in MINERAL SPIRITS overnight -- not the handle though.

No abrasives -- just something like silver polish and NEVR DULL.

This reel will turn out spectacular -- and value will be much higher if approached wisely.

Good luck -- we look forward to some more pics.

And please do not hesitate to ask for expert help from our members.

Best,

Fred

[oc1]

That is one of B.F. Meek & Sons lower grade reels. Probably early 1910's (up to 1916).  There is also a Bluegrass Model 33 with similar construction. They're valuable ($50-$100), but not crazy valuable like the earlier Kentucky-style Meeks.  

It's a tube reel like the popular Meisselbach Takapart and Tripart.  The Meisselbach has the foot integrated with the tube frame while the Meek has the foot riveted to the frame.  

The tail plate screws onto the tube frame and most times it is frozen and cannot be removed.  If you cannot get the tail plate off you can not service, repair or even oil it.  If someone knows how to safely remove a frozen tailplate on one of these things please let us know.  Many have tried and given up.  Most examples have a few pipe wrench marks on the knurling.

The exterior will shine up nicely for the shelf.

-steve

[foakes]

Steve is right on taking apart these reels -- sometimes it is tough.

I have had some luck with removing everything that can be removed (crank,end caps, any screws, etc. -- then soaking the stuck body and sideplates in a glass jar of mineral spirits overnight.  If stuck badly, I use lacquer thinner in an open glass jar -- in the ultrasonic cleaner.  This tends to both soak into the nooks, crannies, and threads -- and uses a sonic vibrating action within the liquid solution -- to loosen up stuck parts.

Then I use a gripper glove to unscrew the plates.

Here is a sack of old Meisselbach Simploral and tri-take-aparts, showing the threaded ends.

Best,

Fred

[Gfish]

Thanks guys. Fred you're the MAN! So, I took the 1st step: used Inox mx3, smacked the L side plate with a rubber mallet, then applied heat with a hair dryer, wrapped cloth around the knurled edge and got it loose using a channel lock pliers. Tani-ized(marine grease)the L side, spool & bushings(reelfast oil), as much a the right inside plate as I could and I'm not sure about the R side. Looks like there's a rivet that goes from the post(only on one post?see in 2nd picture) to the outside a the R plate: can that plate be unscrewed too? Steve I'm kinda glad it's a lower end-screw apart reel, 'cause the other screws are gonna be a challenge. Like I tol Fred, My bro. paid $10 for it atta Flea Market.
To be continued... Man this is fun! Thanks again Steve n' Fred. Still workin on photo posting...
Gfish

[oc1]

You're way ahead of me gfish.  I bought two Bluegrass 33 and can't get either one apart.  Tried soaking in Blaster penetrating oil, heated it, hit it with a mallet, timid pressure with the channel locks, but nothing.  I've been tempted to force one open just to see what's inside.  Since yours is open maybe you can show us the guts.

Thank you very much Fred.  I'm going to try the lacquer thinner and ultrasonic cleaner.  We don't have a glove like that but maybe a sheet of red gasket material will do.

Mine looks like the end of that protruding post on the head plate may be threaded.  Only the tail plate has the direction for unscrewing it stamped in the metal.  I was hoping it would all come apart easily from there.

The slots in the screws do not have a flat bottom.  So, a slotted screwdriver ground down to a V-shaped knife edge on the end will sit lower in the screw and give more bite.
-steve

[Gfish]

Try'n to post a pic.








Alright it worked! This's the reel almost fully disassembled. Several screws felt like they'ed break if I put any more pressure on 'em. For a circa 1910 reel I can't believe the tolerances, esp. In the bushings and the main gear/gear stud. Now ta polish it... Direct drive with a clicker, pretty simple, eh?
Gfish

[foakes]

Nicely done!

Best,

Fred

[Gfish]

B.F. Meek was credited with being the first one to use "spiral cut gears" on a fishing reel
Gfish

[oc1]

Thank you Gfish. Is the head plate threaded onto the tube frame, or just held in place by that screw??

There is a Bluegrass 33 listed now that was made after Horton bought out Meek & Sons.  Appears to have only minor wrench marks on the tail plate knurling but I've already been burned twice.

-steve

[Gfish]

Steve, the inside section a the head-plate's held on by screws and the last one underneath the main gear started chippin, so I backed off. Also, couldn't get the click-spring screws er the handle counter-weight screw loose. Knurled edge a the R side plate's for gripping purposes, I guess.
Somethin I forgot to mention 'bout gettin L- side plate off: holdin reel by hand, unable to do it. Mounted on rod and clamp rod down on table, gave me the leverage needed.
Gfish
Add-on: Steve 2 screws  hold the outside R plate on; the middle bushing cover(looks like a tension adjuster, but it's a lube port for the gears), & the handle screw. Remove these an on mine the plate pops off. The rivet lookin thing is stickin through the plate to stablize that side an it's tight but not ment to be permanent.
Gfish, 11/30, 05:30hrs.

[Shark Hunter]

Good work on getting that apart G.

[Gfish]

Thanks Daron! I must be gettin matured 'cause I don't force mechanical things like I usedta. Got 7 sec. a direct drive spin time odda her, not great, but OK fora 110yr. Old reel!