The Sailfisher 130 Project

[Ruffy]

And all back together. Not without it's hiccups though. On closer inspection the rod clamp had a near full thickness break, as evidenced by the corrosion on the break. I noticed a few small cracks on the rings where the rod clamps go, and then while doing the eccentric screw up the top of the screw cracked off. I like to think I'm strong, but it was with minimal force so must've had a stress fracture already as well. It was pretty stiff to undo, so perhaps I caused it then. Looks like I have to track down one of them, will have a look at Penn parts.

[sabaman1]

Mo, what was the ratio of liquid soap to baking soda for the cleaning solution ?

[mo65]

Mo, what was the ratio of liquid soap to baking soda for the cleaning solution ?

Just a few drops of soap to a pile in the palm of my hand...no real science to it.

[UKChris1]

I've enjoyed this series and it has promped me to look again at the Sailfisher I have sitting on the reel shelf. It always seemed very well built compared to many Penns of a similar vintage - just purred nicely when fiddled with.

Going to strip it down, clean it up and load with some line for general bottom fishing here in the UK. Probably overkill for almost everything, but we do have to contend with strong tides in most places and leads of 10oz are not unusual. Would look nice alongside my other rod with its 349HC Super Mariner that is kept for those times when over 1lb of lead is needed, even with PE braid.

[Decker]

Beautiful work, Mo.   Those reels are strong and pretty rare. 

[Gfish]

Decker! What's up, don't recall any posts from you for awhile. That, of course, could just be me.
I recently got a great condition 130 from the Swami. My old one had a spool rub problem that I couldn't figure-out. If you or anyone else needs parts for one lemme know.

[UKChris1]

I know this thread has been quiet for a while but I hope waking it up is OK.

I've finished that 130 I mentioned and now it is all back together I have discovered a spool rub problem too. Yes, I did strip it all back down again to check nothing was in the wrong place, and all is fine from that point of view. However, when 'engaged' I can wind in pretty much as expected though there is the hint of friction from somewhere, but when in freespool the spool is most reluctant to move.

If I back off the left side bearing and balance the spool on the left bearing, it will spin. If I tip the reel over and balance the reel on the right side bearing, it will spin. When I screw the left side bearing back so
there is just a little side-to-side play, no spin.

I am guessing the reel foot is distorted in some way such that the two bearings are now not in line and this is preventing the freespool. Am I on the right track and if so, any ideas as to how to correct it (given that the 130 is discontinued so buying a new foot isn't an option).

Do you think your old Sailfisher could have had the same issue Gfish?

Chris

[Gfish]

Probably. I played with it trying various fixes and failed 4 different times. Closest to a fix for me was bushing shims, but repeated testing brought about the problem again. Trying post shims didn't work for me either. My ego hates failing on such a "simple machine", but I concluded that something in the frame side-plate system would tweak due to...? when using/testing.
Come-on UKChris, show me how it can be fixed, I'm stumped.

[foakes]

This is an issue on some of the taller Penn conventional reels when they are used in stressful fighting conditions for large fish.

The stand is not as strong as it should be for the reel.

It is chromed over a softer metal alloy (brass, I think), maybe something else though?

This is also true on the Penn 115 9/0's.  I have replaced a lot of stands on those also.  Reel is too tall and too heavy for the stand/mount —- then when it gets tweaked, problems arise.

Most folks do not use the harnesses on these for more solid stability —- and that is when stands get tweaked.

The stand is a 30-130 with (6) screw anchors to the frame.

Also, check to make sure the yoke is not burred on the ramps, or installed upside down.

I'll bet someone on our site would have a good stand for you & Gregg to try out.

Basically, the 130 Sailfisher is a wide, tall conventional that holds a lot of line —- but unfortunately also uses mainly the Penn standard components —- unlike the 349 Master Mariner which is a Heavy Duty trolling reel designed for lots of line, or wire line.  The 130 Sailfisher is like an MG —- sexy, sharp looking, but every time you take it out for a spin —- it either develops problems or requires work in advance (electrical, overheating, etc.).

That is also why a lot of knowledgeable anglers using 9/0's will switch to a solid aftermarket aluminum frame.

The Sailfisher is a light, higher speed reel —- and according to Penn lore —- was one of Martha Henze's favorites.

1:3 gearing, a good reel for folks targeting larger fish with lighter tackle.

Just my opinions.

Best, Fred

[Gfish]

Hmmmm... astute observations, Fred.
I once hooked 4 tuna at once on 2 trolled rigs, 2 lures/line. A school had to be fighting each other to get to those fake baitfish first as both lines got hit at the same time. I left the heavier Sailfisher rig alone to work the lighter rig at 30lb. on a Penn 350. Maybe the stand tweaked then, or maybe I just like reliving and bragging about the experience. Who knows, I could have just dropped it onto a rock and forgotten about it. Lost 3 lures, landed one fish. The Sailfisher rig was a thrashing around somethin' fierce, lost both of those tunas.

Don't need a new stand because the Swami sent me one that is pert-near perfect!😍 I may send the tweaked 130 to Leonardo and he may be able to repair it.

[oldmanjoe]

  When I have a reel that doesn't feel right . I start by checking the stand on a flat surface .   Does it look straight .  Check the corners measurements , right them down .    Install just the side plates to the stand .   Measure again .    The stand , we will call 4  O`clock and 8  O` clock.
    Check at 10  12 and 2 o`clock .  You can use a square against the side plate to see which one is wacked .   Were the blue tape is on the stand , is were i start making adjustments .

     Check your bar lengths also to see if they match up with the stand corners measurements .
   
     The fourth picture is showing how much gap from bottom corner to top, this was .090 bigger at the top.

[oldmanjoe]

Another way to check , is use K&S tube stock that is axle diameter and slide it through the end bearing and see if it will go into the other bearing  .  This last picture is a little exaggerated , but gives you a idea what to look for .
      You should have the bars in place also when checking for the line bore of the axle ...

[Patudo]

Basically, the 130 Sailfisher is a wide, tall conventional that holds a lot of line —- but unfortunately also uses mainly the Penn standard components —- unlike the 349 Master Mariner which is a Heavy Duty trolling reel designed for lots of line, or wire line.  The 130 Sailfisher is like an MG —- sexy, sharp looking, but every time you take it out for a spin —- it either develops problems or requires work in advance (electrical, overheating, etc.).

That is also why a lot of knowledgeable anglers using 9/0's will switch to a solid aftermarket aluminum frame.

The Sailfisher is a light, higher speed reel —- and according to Penn lore —- was one of Martha Henze's favorites.

1:3 gearing, a good reel for folks targeting larger fish with lighter tackle.

Just my opinions.

Best, Fred

The clue is in its name.  Sailfish are great fun to catch, but even the large Pacific ones don't require heavy line or heavy drag.  Used for what it's intended for, within its limits, it'll be all right.  I'd not be surprised if most of the issues that arose with these came after they were spooled up with heavy line and used for hauling eg. grouper (or got snagged on the bottom).

Even the Penn 9/0 is not really intended to fish 80 lb line to its limits. 

[UKChris1]

Thanks for the advice on measuring the frame from different directions. I don't have one of those lovely calipers, but I guess a set of plain calipers and careful use of a steel rule with fine measurement divisions might work.

Another thought, which I'll dismiss as I think the spool is pretty robust, is that the spool itself might be distorted.

Of course what I ought to do is take the foot off and change it for the foot on my other, perfect, 130 to see what happens. Leave it with me as it looks like being wet and windy Thursday (when I ought to be fishing, weather permitting, but the skipper called to say his propeller dropped off so no fishing! Really?)

[thorhammer]

I know this thread has been quiet for a while but I hope waking it up is OK.

I've finished that 130 I mentioned and now it is all back together I have discovered a spool rub problem too. Yes, I did strip it all back down again to check nothing was in the wrong place, and all is fine from that point of view. However, when 'engaged' I can wind in pretty much as expected though there is the hint of friction from somewhere, but when in freespool the spool is most reluctant to move.

If I back off the left side bearing and balance the spool on the left bearing, it will spin. If I tip the reel over and balance the reel on the right side bearing, it will spin. When I screw the left side bearing back so
there is just a little side-to-side play, no spin.

I am guessing the reel foot is distorted in some way such that the two bearings are now not in line and this is preventing the freespool. Am I on the right track and if so, any ideas as to how to correct it (given that the 130 is discontinued so buying a new foot isn't an option).

Do you think your old Sailfisher could have had the same issue Gfish?

Chris

Always OK to revive a thread- and ESPECIALLY a Sailfisher thread. It's a bit of a cult. I have two nice ones "with some aid from Greg-fish!_