over-greasing a reel.

[alantani]

finally started working on a gorgeous custom penn 16 that was sent in months ago.  funny, it looks like the frame is on backwards!



when i opened it up, there was grease everywhere!  it looks like someone went in with a three inch paint brush and started painting the inside with grease.  it's gonna take a while to clean out.  there is such a thing as too much of a good thing!  i already had cleaned off the spool before taking pictures.  you would have loved that one!



in business, there was a saying that i remembered.  "centralize all that is de-centralized, and de-centralize all that is centralized, and you will be hailed as a genius."  perhaps the same holds true with us.  grease all that is dry, clean off all that is greased, and you will also be hailed as a genius!  personally, i like a light coat.  i have noted over the years that i have started to apply thinner and thinner coats of grease as i have progressed.  

[alantani]

cleaned the grease out of the bearings and lubed them with TSI 321. 

[akfish]

I'm seeing quite a few of the Chinese Penns come into the shop with excess grease from the factory. I much prefer that to too little or no grease...

[Chuck750ss]

Looked like you had invented perpetual motion for a bit!

[alantani]

now it has to be spooled up, but first a question.  shall we stick with the original handle grip?



or add a new one?

[bhale1]

Alan,
I think we already know the answer to that one....AT grip for sure!!!😁😁
Brett

[alantani]

now we're going to wind on the braid.  i put a light coat of yamaha grease on the spool and carefully wipe off all the excess, then a double layer of flex wrap, the wind the braid 5-6 times around the arbor and finish it off with a 6 turn uni knot.  then i set the tension on the bulk spool holder to somewhere between 50-75% of the anticipated drag setting.  this is going to be an 80 pound reel with 24 pounds of drag at strike, so i need to wind the braid on with 12 to 18 pound of pressure.  we'll use 18 pounds.  then i wind on 100 yards of red 80 pound hollow, then do a 4 foot end-to-end splice to yellow.  that's 2 feet on either side.  now for 100 yards of yellow 80 pound hollow.



after the yellow, there is 100 yards of green, then 100 yards of white.  same tensions, same 4 foot end-to-end splice.



now 100 yards of green for the very last.  so, 500 yards total, from top to bottom it's green, white, green, yellow and red.  if you get to the yellow, your spool height is half and your drag pressure has doubled.  if you see red, we have a serious problem.  this is my "stoplight" rigging. 

[alantani]

drag settings are 12#'s at 1, 17#'s at 2, 25#'s at strike and 32#'s at full.  now i just need to get in tough with the owner, find out whether he wants clear or pink fluoro and then ship it back. 

one thing, when you get to the topmost 100 yard section of green, you can shove the lever all the way to full and it is physically impossible to break the line with the rod and reel.  unless you get sawed off, chewed through, spit out or sharked.   

[mo65]

   That's a cool multi-color set up. I like the red zone warning.

[Rivverrat]

I'm going to start doing this. I've stayed away from the colored hollow core lines because of the issues splicing them. However I can use colored solid on the bottom & splice it to white hollow. Problem solved?

[Alto Mare]

I'm seeing quite a few of the Chinese Penns come into the shop with excess grease from the factory. I much prefer that to too little or no grease...

I understand about having too much grease, but I do agree with Bill's comment.

Sal

[Gfish]

"Stoplight rigging", great idea! Universal color code system too.
Gfish

[mrwilson99]

I am so sad my reels didn't get the Alan Tani treaetment 

Soon enough I'll have the correct reels!

[alantani]

I'm going to start doing this. I've stayed away from the colored hollow core lines because of the issues splicing them. However I can use colored solid on the bottom & splice it to white hollow. Problem solved?

connecting hollow core to solid braid has been a challenge for me.  i don't like the idea of a "serve" because the solid might slip out.  a uni-to-uni is fine for rockcod, but not for any serious applications.  so what i end up doing is a bimini twist on the solid and a hollow core loop on the hollow, then a loop-to-loop connection.  that i think is the best way to connect solid to hollow or solid to solid braid. 

[Rivverrat]

Alan are you bringing your solid outside of the hollow & back in after feeding it through a few feet ? 

I must admit the method you describe is tried & tested to the extent of being accepted among most folks who've been at it a while... Jeff