I Just Couldn't Leave It Alone

[Decker]

The only way to settle this... a casting contest ...And bird-nesting exhibition

[Ron Jones]

The issue that has only been briefly mentioned is bait weight. The more mass of the bait, the heavier the spool can be and still get going until that mass gets large enough that you aren't strong enough to throw it as far or load the rod properly.

A pinhead anchovie needs the lightest spool, the fastest bearings and slickest line and guides if there is any hope of casting it a reasonable distance, honestly your in spinner territory.

A 1/2 pound mackerel can be flung  good ways with that rig BUT the spool is going to need enough force from your thumb that the braid will cut you to the bone. This is why many people feel they need hundreds of rods and reels. They want to match the reel to the rod to the bait for every situation, just like a golfer has a bag full of clubs and several different balls.

In reality, you can get away with far fewer rigs than that IF you learn how to use your thumb.
Ron

[oc1]

Repeat.... The most important factor is the initial speed of the casting weight.  You get a higher initial speed of the casting weight when the spool can start up faster.
-steve

[basto]

There are so many variables in distance casting. The diameter of the line, the width of the spool, the weight of the spool, the bearings or bushings on the spool, the type of oil in those bearings, the rod used.
When I got my first distance reel, an ABU 6500c3 mag elite in London in the year 2000 (first model) I read about how it even made a difference how you spooled the line on the reel.
I also learned how "birds nests" mainly happened in the start of the cast, and that is when I applied the magnets. Soon after the start of the cast, the mag slider was bought back to zero. An adjustable mag brake helps a lot.
In time with practice, I could cast that thing in the dark.
The most important thing, I found was consistency.  By that I mean same weight of bait or lure as possible., and always with 12 pound monofilament.

cheers
Greg

[mo65]

 

[Decker]

Great info here, if taken with a glass of whiskey

How do birds nests happen at the start of the cast?

[mo65]

Great info here, if taken with a glass of whiskey

How do birds nests happen at the start of the cast?

   Great question Joe. The beginning of the cast is how my bird's nests always start...I know this because I've watched them happen! I guess the initial thrust just really spins the spool too hard. This is what magnets try to overcome, as they present the most force at the highest RPM. No help there for my plaster spool.(my uncle calls plastic "plaster", God love him!) I'll have to admit, at the onset of the cast, I need a heavy thumb on the plastic spool, but as it begins to fly I release pressure and hardly thumb it at all toward the end. Listen to me...I've joined the distance discussion.

[Gfish]

Great info here, if taken with a glass of whiskey

How do birds nests happen at the start of the cast?

My guess'ed be spool speed too fast for weight(casted object) speed.
Other factors might be; not enough thumb pressure, too much friction from stiff line, rod not doin a good job a generating line/weight speed on the fore-cast after loading on the back-cast(I call it "snap-back ability").

This type a stuff is fun.
Theories aside, Mo's talkin bout he gets more distance witha chrome/brass spool, but it's difficult to control, in an earlier post on this thread, albeit he was referencing a LB 60.
Oh boy! Let's add spool configuration(height/width ratio) into the mix...

[Reel 224]

When I was fresh water fishing with my son. I owned nothing but conventional reels, Lews, and Abu, hardily had a birds nest. I have to say we were fishing with a 14' aluminum boat and I did no have to cast far. I love the adjustable casting reels for that reason. But Ive found that the heaver plugs and bate rigs that are used in salt water fishing are a bit harder to cast longer distances because of the velocity the weight has. I tape my thumb to prevent spool burn, Thumbing is most important to control the over spin that can accrue with the added weight.

Joe   

[Ron Jones]

I usually cast hard enough to let any initial overruns work themselves out before the cast is done, not always...several people here have seem one of my reels turn into Japanese noodles!
I do often have issues at the end of the cast, there is a timing piece involving stopping the reel just as it contacts the water. If the spool is still spinning to fast and it tears your thumb up you have a tendency to release pressure right as the bait hits the water, then you get out your pick and pray to got your bait doesn't get picked up while your sorting out your nightmare! (got that t-shirt, it sucks.)
Ron

[basto]

Sorry Mo. I got a bit carried away there. When I think of the complexities of casting a conventional reel, it reminds me of benchrest target shooting.
Once you have your rifle sighted in and your most accurate load worked out, the only thing you need to concentrate on is your breathing.
O K, I will shut up now.
Greg

[Decker]

I just can't leave this thread alone. Thinking about the start of the cast.... There are definitely different types of casts. My main reference point here is full-force 8&bait heaver surf casting. Don't much remember the bad casts, only dealing with the aftermath. The good ones are smooth, with plenty of tension on the 50lb Shock leader as the rod loads up, soon followed by a thumb release perfectly synchronized with the end of the rod rotation and extension from the shoulders. Ive gotten away from thumbing the line and instead ride the spool flange.  No magnets on my reel and I havent had the guts to let go of the spool completely.

[Ron Jones]

I've read the phrase 8&bait several times lately, what on Earth does that mean?
Ron

[grekim]

I've read the phrase 8&bait several times lately, what on Earth does that mean?
Ron

8 oz of lead sinker.

[grekim]

I just can't leave this thread alone. Thinking about the start of the cast.... There are definitely different types of casts. My main reference point here is full-force 8&bait heaver surf casting. Don't much remember the bad casts, only dealing with the aftermath. The good ones are smooth, with plenty of tension on the 50lb Shock leader as the rod loads up, soon followed by a thumb release perfectly synchronized with the end of the rod rotation and extension from the shoulders. Ive gotten away from thumbing the line and instead ride the spool flange.  No magnets on my reel and I havent had the guts to let go of the spool completely.

Everything I have read and tried indicates that smooth acceleration though the cast is the way to go.  But, once you are at the end of your cast and start to release the thumb a bit, the lure is moving at a certain velocity whether or not you got there smoothly or quickly.  So, the smoothness must be more tied into getting the rod to load and to the transfer of that energy.  In other words, if you have a quick jerky cast you probably won't load the rod properly is my guess.