Penn 9 Class with Reel Clamp as the Reel Seat

[sundancer]

Gents

Its been awhile.  This Season wasn't a particularly good one for Fishing, but so be it.

As my Season has ended, I am starting to build a few Rods for Penn 9/109/27.  I have a few cheap Blanks off eBay that I have started to build.  3 have Plate-type Seats and a couple, I am thinking, won't have a Seat.

If I drill the Reels for a Clamp, can I just use the Clamp to secure the Reel?  Or, will I also need to use Brass/Stainless Eye Screws off the Rear Bar and Clamp it there also??  I hope you get the picture.....

I am thinking about Rod Seat-less as it will allow me to move the Reel anyplace on the Rod Handle.

Thoughts??
Steve

[Gfish]

Difficult for me ta visualize your written description, but it's probably just me(eye screws?).
Newell made some nice wide combo. seat/clamps that enabled one to move smaller reels( mine was ona Squidder) around on the rod handle.

[sundancer]

G...

I will have to find the Newell Clamps.

As to what I was trying to explain - Use Eye Bolts with a long-ish Shank.  Take the rear Bar off the Reel, put it thru the Eye Bolt and reinstall.  Use the Eye Bolt and a 2nd Clamp to firm up the Reel.



Steve

[Gfish]

I have one that fits on the Squidder. Got the bars n spool from Newell that are still on the reel, but I went back to the stock stand(30-49). Would this fit the 9 class?

[sundancer]

I saw that but couldn't work out how it attaches.  I now see the small screws where it attaches to the Reel..  cool, I will have to take another look..

was even looking at the Cork Puppy.

thanks
Steve

[sundancer]

So - let me get this straight....

A 30-49 Penn 146 Stand is the same as the 30N-9 Penn 9 Stand, other than the Clamp Holes???

S

[oc1]

You will get better stability using one of these things then clamping or lashing it to the rod.
http://www.fujitackle.eu/product/559/category/153

A cork puppy may be a little big for a Penn 9 or 109.
-steve

[Gfish]

Naw, looks like the 30-49 stand ain't gonna fit ona Penn 9. Not that I could check it first-hand, but went onto mysticparts(Penn Parts) site and they have a compatibility chart for most parts. I like to use Mysticparts to check-out part compatibility, part avalibility possible substitutions before I buy a Penn.

[sundancer]

Steve

LOLOL  I have quite a few of those - Plate-type Reel Seats, and like them.  Have used a few already.  If the Mounting Ears on the front and rear were a bit longer, they would be perfect.  I also have a couple of Coaster Reel Seats:

that I thought I would like.  I am on the fence with them right now.

I tried the Reel Clamp idea with a 500 last night after seeing your Post.  I think the Clamp will work.  Might still try to augment with something else.  Will take some pictures as I continue to play.

Gf...

I use their Site also.  Hope it never goes away. 

Too bad that the 49 Seat won't fit.  Thanks for looking though.

Steve

[oc1]

Lashing is less obtrusive and stronger but it takes a long time to remove the reel.  Any of those clamps are fine if the rod is going to spend the day in a rod holder or bait-and-wait sand spike or something.  But if you spend the day holding the rod and casting those clamps are a nuisance and uncomfortable.
-steve

[sundancer]

Yea, I noticed that just playing with them Steve

[sundancer]

I have still been playing around with the idea of an adjustable Reel Clamp so I can go 'seat-less' on a few Rods I am building.

Here's the latest thought:




Now I have to find an Eyebolt that has ~2.5" shank while still keeping the 3/16" Eye diameter (without spending $6/bolt lollol)

Steve

ps

the Red is just some tubing i had around acting as a Spacer so the Bolts don't wander around when they are lose.

S

[STRIPER LOU]

Sundancer,

That's a neat and novel approach. Even though the eye screws are toward the outer portion of the frame, does tightening of the clamp to secure the reel properly have any torqueing effect on the frame?

I'm guessing if the level wind and/or the spool function is not correct, that would be the giveaway.

Not at all knocking your idea, I'm just more curious than anything. If it works, you might consider doing away with the wing nuts in favor of regular nuts for a more trim installation. Not as convenient but definitely easier on the hands.

I have a gent that comes into the shop that lashes almost all his conventional reels down and I've commented to him that it must be a pain when you have to remove the reel. I was surprised when he said, no big deal,  ...  he just removes the side plate screws that secure the foot, and pulls the reel off leaving the foot in place. Simple and interesting way to go, I guess.

Please keep us posted as you go forward.

.........................Lou

[Alto Mare]

I like your way of thinking Steve, I could see that working. I would recommend turning the eye bolt opened end towards the outer side of the reel so the line doesn't get caught in therte.
Thanks for sharing your ideas with us and keep us posted on your progress.

Best,

Sal

[sundancer]

Gents

all good points.

The Wingnuts are just from the Clamp off a 500.  i have cheap Nuts that came with the Bolts.  If using Nuts, I would lean toward Nylocks, just to make sure they stay put..

The Eyebolts are closed, but their end is a little rough, I will turn them around. 

My concern is shearing the Bar Screws.  Once i had the longer rear Bolts, I will have to tighten til the Reel is firm and see what my comfort level is with the stress.  I have no method to test their shear load.

Lou.

If that Gentleman comes in, recommend the Plate-type Seat.  He can lash down the Seat, and easily remove the Reel without partially dismantling the Reel.  The chinesium ones are cheap as chips but even the Fuji from Mudhole is only a few dollars:



He can lash the Seat down at both ends (see the 'ears') and in the middle. 

I will get back to you once i get the other 2 Bolts

Steve