Tips to removing a stuck rotor for 550?

[BCT7]

Hello all,
I am in the middle of cleaning my newly bought 550. I have removed the nut and washer but the rotor is not coming out. Does anyone has tips or tricks how to do this safely? I am trying not to put a lot of pressure and break things. I think it must be rusted. I can see some rust in the pinion gear.

Thanks
Chris

[Wompus Cat]

There May be a Clip with two holes in it you have to remove but I think that is for the bearing You might spray some penetrate around it then tap on on it lightly with a wooden hammer handle.

[foakes]

Remove everything possible before attempting this rotor removal, Chris —

We don't want any parts to be tweaked or ruined.

Spray a little penetrating oil around the top outer part of the worm pinion — let it penetrate downwards for 15 minutes, or so.

The worm pinion is a very heavy duty steel — the rotor is aluminum.  The rotor is not threaded on — it is held in place by a drive plate, lock washer, and a hex nut.  If the pinion wasn't fused to the rotor — the rotor would just slip off.

This is not serious rust between the worm pinion and rotor — but rather just a tacked together couple of pieces that just need the surface tension broken.  The worm may be rusted, the main bearing, the snap ring, spring washer, and bearing shield — but these can be cleaned up or replaced very easily.

The rust is due to either salt water and no servicing — or just no servicing — water caused the rust.

When everything is removed — including the hex nut, and spring washer, and maybe the drive plate (this isn't a deal breaker, the worm will come out with the drive plate in place) — next do this...

Put a big, fat rag under the body and rotor  — as you hold in your hand, just the rotor — as securely as possible — then, using a nylon faced hammer — just drive the worm pinion downward — thus breaking the fuse-hold.

If you don't have a nylon faced hammer like this — a chunk of hardwood can be used as a drive buffer between the top of the worm-pinion and your hammer.

This has ALWAYS worked for me with never an issue —

After you get the rotor off — you can then remove the other parts mentioned — drive the bearing off of the worm-pinion — clean everything up as good as you can.  Test the bearing, replace if necessary.

This will work — no worries...

If any little parts are needed to replace rusted ones — I should have those for you.

The 550 is a large powerhouse.  Very capable reel for large fish.

Best,

Fred

[sandbar]

Awesome explanation Fred.
You are a blessing to so many. 👍

[BCT7]

Thank you very much Fred for confirming that the rotor is not threaded or somehow attached to something.  I did not think it was (drive plate, lock washer, and a hex nut are off), but started to doubt myself that maybe I missed a step or something. I have it soaking in PB Blaster now. It was getting late, and need to work on dinner. I was kinda getting annoyed anyway lol so I better stop before I do something dumb and break something.

Thank you
Chris

[foakes]

Let us know how you do, Chris —

Oftentimes, I get tired of working on a reel (and almost everything else in my life is more important than reels these days) — just have a good dinner, a movie with the wife, head to bed — early the next morning it all comes so much easier.

Balance & patience.

Sounds like you have it under control.

Best, Fred

[foakes]

For tough bearing/worm pinion extractions — this has always worked pretty well for me.

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

Me, too. Same concept with a little different setup. I usually do it so the body ends up in my lap, on purpose. 

[BCT7]

Just want to give a quick update. My son and I been fishing with this reel, paired with a 9 ft rod and 30 lbs braid. It works great, I can cast very far with 2 oz weight. Enough to put the bait in the deeper part of the lake where the fish are. Our largest so far is 3-4 lbs carp but hoping that we will catch larger ones.