Preserving/Maintaining Rod Handles

[Tuffecs]

Rods handles are made of cork, eva, plastic, whatever.  Over time, it deteriorates (cracks, dries out, etc.).  Like my decades-old surf rod cork handles, it's in bad shape.  How do you maintain them?  Apply protectorant (e.g., 303, Armor All)?  Let it deteriorate and just replace them?  Thanks

[Hardy Boy]

I put cork protector on my cork handles. When they get dirty you can clean them up with a light sanding and re apply, fix nicks etc. with wood filler first. I have also protected cork handles with shrink tube in the area they get worn from the rod holders. Foam I just leave it until its needs to be replaced (takes along time).

Cheers:

Todd

[jurelometer]

Agree with Todd on foam handles.

I was taught not to put a finish on cork.   The theory was that anything that coats the cork enough to protect it would also affect the elasticity and grippiness that makes cork desirable.  And anything that fills the pores up with oil will make it harder to get a nice grip with sweaty hands.  And if a cork handle gets a bit gray  and grimy, well, that is how it is supposed to look.

Also was taught not to clean cork, or at least not very often.  The solid parts of cork are very durable, but the flaws are quite crumbly, so you don't want to be scrubbing too much.  Fillers create hard spots, and will fall out over time, so I don't bother reapplying  filler in the voids.

Quality cork may get worn down a bit and lose some visual appeal, but it will still get the job done  for a very long time if you don't stick hooks in it or let the dog chew on it.

I haven't  tried applying cork finish, so I can't say for certain that the way that I was taught is best.

For lesser quality cork that is getting too far gone, you can sand down a bit, fill the voids and coat with a flocking, which typically comes in the form of a heat-shrink tube or a golf club handle type spiral wrap.  Some new fly rods come with flocked cork grips, and some folks like flocked cork better than plain cork, especially considering the poor quality of most cork rings nowadays.  Flocked grips don't absorb moisture like untreated cork.  They get a bit sweaty if you fish in hot places.

Here is a typical-not-so-great-quality factory fly rod grip that has been fished so long and hard that the grain is standing proud and all the filler is long gone.  Looks like crap,  but functionally better than new. If it eventually tears apart, I will probably replace with composite/burl cork.

-J

[Hardy Boy]

The cork finish I use is specifically for cork and does seem to do a nice job. I agree with Dave for the most part to leave the cork be and would only clean/ coat if that is the look you are wanting. I only do a very light sanding. I also agree with Dave that there is good cork and some really bad cork. The good cork is worth protecting the not good cork use it til you need to replace of cover it. The last cork butt I replaced I used the fake cork for its durability.


Cheers:

todd

[Tuffecs]

What about non-cork handles?   (e.g., eva, shrink wrap, foam, rubber)

[Swami805]

For hypalon when it gets old I use 80 grit paper on a block and use the lathe to take off the hardened top layer. Comes out like new

[jgp12000]

I prefer cork handles with vintage reels and have some dock poles that stay out in the weather. I try to get foam handled rods for my dock poles. When cork stays out the sun does a number on them. I sand them with a green 3M pad and then brush on water based polyurethane. They look great and seem to still have a good grip.

[jurelometer]

What about non-cork handles?   (e.g., eva, shrink wrap, foam, rubber)

For bare EVA or hypalon foam,  if your goal is functional preservation/ maintenance,  no  need to do anything.  I am not aware of any coating for foam grips, and can't imagine how such a thing would be beneficial.

Heat or cold shrink sleeves have a tougher surface than plain foam, but add weight, tend to be more slippery, and are not immune to getting scratched up.  I haven't tried to replace a sleeve myself, but suspect that the  glue lined heat shrinks might not be easy to get off cleanly.

For something like a light casting rod, I would shy away from  shrink tube,  but the stuff might make sense for cases where rod holders or railing will chew up plain foam.   If building the rod from scratch, I would look for tougher alternatives before going to shrink tube over foam.

 If you want to clean a foam or sleeved grip to make it look nice, mild degertent, like dish soap and warm to slightly hot water  (not hot enough to burn your skin) is the ticket.  Stay away from cleaners with any kind of solvent, especially with EVA foam.

If soap and water does not do get the job done, you could consider  the specialty cleaners made for EVA foam boat deck treatments.  Haven't tried this either.

The next level is those abrasive dish sponges, like Scotch Brite.  These can be used with the soap and water.  Not sure if I would use a scotch the bright on a smooth shrink sleeve though,  It might scratch too much.

If you do go all the way to sanding foam,  using something approximating a lathe as Swami recommends is a must.  I prefer drywall mesh sandpaper for sanding foam handles.

A common theme I see in this thread is that it depends a bit on the situation.  Urethane on a dock rod cork grip for a local pond might be just the ticket,  but I wouldn't recommend for casting a big single handed fly rod.  Just a bit of fish slime on that grip and you will have to go for a swim to find your rod. 

-J.

[Midway Tommy]

I don't like commercial cork sealers, but I seal all of my cork grips with Penetrol. It doesn't add a finish that can wear or peel. It just seals the cork and keeps it from deteriorating and getting oily & dirty.

[JasonGotaProblem]

What about non-cork handles?   (e.g., eva, shrink wrap, foam, rubber)

Remove and replace with cork.

Simple as that.

[jurelometer]

What about non-cork handles?   (e.g., eva, shrink wrap, foam, rubber)

Remove and replace with cork.

Simple as that.

Horses for courses.  While I wouldn't want a thick cold shrink tube on a bluegill rod, imagine what a cork foregrip would look  like after you slid a rail rod down the length of a long ranger with 30 lbs of drag.  There would be a trail of cork crumbs 

[JasonGotaProblem]

Horses for courses.  While I wouldn't want a thick cold shrink tube on a bluegill rod, imagine what a cork foregrip would look  like after you slid a rail rod down the length of a long ranger with 30 lbs of drag.  There would be a trail of cork crumbs 

Agreed in general, I'm just being a butthead. My strong preference for cork, as well as my lack of offshore experience are well documented, ...and potentially related.

[Tuffecs]

This Tsunami Trophy Series surf rod has served me well for many years.  Great rod, but the handle needs repair.  As you can see, the sheet cork (I think) is separating from the blank.

- Should I just glue it?  Epoxy?  Amazing goop?
- Take it off and replace it with cork? How?

[oldmanjoe]

  It looks like the cork tape slipped back under the foam handle .     I would work it and use contact cement glue .  Maybe a hair dryer or heat gun and thumb pressure will fix it .

[JasonGotaProblem]

If what Joe suggested doesn't work, you can buy that exact.cork tape, either by the roll on amazon or by the foot on mudhole.com for $1/ft (or by the roll there). You obviously won't be able to tuck it back under the handle but you can trim off the new tape you put down at the edge of the handle then thread wrap and epoxy the edge to keep it from unraveling.

https://www.mudhole.com/Cork-Tape-per-ft