Squidder 140 spool questions

[Flat Top]

I just purchased a Squidder 140 reel. The reel has two spools, one aluminum and one plastic. I have never used a plastic spool on any of my Penn reels so I am not familiar with them.  I want to use the plastic spool for long distance casting. I have heard that the plastic spool will crack when spooled with mono. I usually use braid anyway (this is for fishing) and would like to load the plastic spool with 40lb (braid)....is that ok and does it require mono backing to keep the braid from slipping on the spool or should I use tape for the purpose?

[Cuttyhunker]

Some (all?) of the 140 plastic spools were designed with an "air brake" 3 fins on one side of the spool to slow things down as an anti backlash device.  For a distance caster IDK
if that would be a detriment.  I can't advise you on that only inform you.

[Flat Top]

Thanks for the comeback Cuttyhunker...I appreciate that. After about 7 hours of searching this forum for the answer to my question..and finding it... I have decided on keeping the mono with a braid backing on the Aluminum spool and running straight braid on the plastic spool with a bit of tape to seal the deal. So, problem solved.

[JasonGotaProblem]

I like this fella already, he's fighting the good fight. I too am trying to show that braid on a conventional and distance casting are not mutually exclusive.

[Flat Top]

JasonGottaProblem:

I always use braid on all my fishing reels, but I wanted to try mono just to see. I grew up with the old "fabric" lines and just considered them to be "the" fishing line...never really used mono for anything but catching small baitfish with a spinner. I use Delmar and Long Beach reels with braid for fishing and can cast 50-60 to 70 yards (once hit 80 yards with a stiff wind at my back) and for my fishing that is just fine. Now that I have the Squidder 140 I just wanted to see if I could "reach out and touch someone" and cast 100 yards. I think that a medium heavy 12" rod, Squidder with 40 lb braid, and 4 to 6 ounces may do it...but only time will tell. If you have any pointers for me I would like to hear them. I need all the help I can get!

[Donnyboat]

Braid for long casting with conventional overhead reels is not a good idea, with a heavy cast, the braid will dig in & the braid will snap, loosing your rig, If you have a plastic reel, wind the monofiliment on, on a cold day, so the line wont stretch, if it stretches on a warm day, then it will shrink, & crush the plastic spool, just my 2 cents worth, but I will strand correcting, cheers Don.

[Flat Top]

Thanks Don;
 I use a shock leader (mono) with all my braid line reels and have never had an issue. I have cast up to 12 oz weights + bait with that set up and it holds well. I will make note of that "cold" wind technique you speak of, but for now I think I will keep the mono on the aluminum spool...just for getting a feel for the setup...will probably change over to braid there too...eventually.

[jurelometer]

 

On spool expansion: Mono has a lot of elasticity.  When it stretches, it gets skinnier, just like pulling on a rubber band.  After you wind it back on the reel, it is no being longer pulled on, so it tries to stretch back to its original diameter.  This takes up more lateral space, creating pressure on the sides of the spool.  I think that the mono damaged plastic and chrome plated brass spools was more load related than temperature.

Back in the pre-spectra days, we used to toss those plastic Squidder and Jigmaster spools, as they blew up way to easily with mono. Not many folk were casting Dacron any more, so the plastic spools were considered worthless.  But braid does not expand too much. And a lightweight spool is one the most important attributes of a good casting reel.

If I ended up with a plastic spool Squidder now, I would definitely give it a shot with modern braid.  65 lb works nice in my little plastic ("graphite") spool Newell, which is about the same size as a Squidder. I do get the occasional frightening backlash, but have been able to clear them all so far. Not sure that I would want to run 30.  I get too excited sometimes when I am chucking at boiling fish and can overdo it on the cast . Thinner line is also more likely to  dig in during the cast, as Don noted.

I quit using tape on the spool arbor for braid.  I now use a version of what Jerry Brown recommended:  a few extra wraps on the spool before the arbor knot, leave a bit longer tag on the knot, and wind over the tag on the first layer as you fill the spool.  Not a problem with a plastic spool, but tape introduces a corrosion risk by trapping water on metal spools.

-J

[JasonGotaProblem]

We are entering opinion territory because I have nothing but personal experience and seemingly sound logic to back up the following:
I am finding that the risk of line digging and snapping is massively alleviated by winding the line onto the spool with a bit more of a cross wrapping angle than what is used when winding on mono. They are different types of line, made out of different material, with different behaviors. Why would we assume treating them the same is the way to get best results?

If you think about it, the cross wrapping makes it much harder for line to get between the loops of line already on the spool.

Let's be clear, there are casting records out there. The fact that NONE of them have been set with braid over mono is enough for me to concede that mono is likely better for distance casting than braid.

Butttttt i still hate mono. I hate tying it, i hate setting hooks with it, and i hate untangling it. Knock on wood ive only gotten one ratnest in the past year bad enough to cut off because i couldn't free it. And that was 20# braid that was way overloaded on the spool, so some had to come off anyway.

Back when I was still attempting to use mono, i can count on one hand the ratnests i could free without cutting it. God forbid i actually wanted to catch a fish with one of those casts.

Can you tell I have a strong opinion?

[Flat Top]

Thanks Jurelometer;

I find it interesting...so many opinions...so many options....keep em coming.

I have had good success with fabric/modern braids over the years. I find them easier to cast, easier to knot and easier to untangle than mono...may be habit, or maybe I need to fish more mono to get used to it....naw.... its hard to teach an old dog new tricks...I feel "comfortable" with braid!

One thing I do is spray my braid down with CRC Food Grade Silicone. I do that as I load the spool and then give the used line a spray after each fishing trip. The braid lasts forever, seems to make that first cast flow off the spool better,and, I have fewer birds nests and they seem to be easier to unravel. The silicone spray doesn't seem to have a negative effect on the braid and when the braid looks a little ratty on top I just back spool the reel and I have fresh braid from the bottom of the spool taking the place of the used braid from the top of the spool.....and I have not had any corrosion on my metal spools. I treated one spool that way and the braid was on there 4 years...no corrosion....and no slipping of the braid on the spool as well.

JasonGottaProblem;

I have watched competitive casting on you tube...extraordinary feats...but I am a fisherman and if I can get 100 yard casts I am more than happy and I think that is doable with the right rod and reel for the purpose...........and BRAID!!! LOL!

[Gfish]

I too hate mono. To me it's only good for leaders. It ages too quickly. Casting a conventional or baitcaster with mono. can be memory-miserable. Yeah braid costs more, but look how long it lasts.

[Flat Top]

Gfish; I use mono for shock leaders, that is it.....but, I have not had a shock leader birds nest... yet! So, I guess it is good for something. I am going to try out my new to me Squidder with mono...am I scared...you betcha!

[Brewcrafter]

Great "thread" on line (see what I did there?  ).  In my experience it's a pretty personal choice, and I suspect it might have a lot to do with the age/generation of the fisherman and what they grew up with and were used to using.  Myself, I freely go back and forth between mono and braid depending on reels and applications; I really don't have any aversions one way or another.  But I will say: there is mono, and then there is mono  I've used box store brands that worked great (admittedly rare) but I have also used top name brands that were just miserable (to me) for things like memory and stretch.  Oddly enough, back when the "superlines" came out (you know, the ones with the diameter of angel hair, the abrasion resistance of rebar, and the visibility of a stealth fighter at night) I went all in and promptly spent the $$$$ to put several miles of 10# test on my 4200SS ultralight (hey! it has the same diameter as 2# mono!  It will fit!)  It lasted two trips before I lost my temper and removed it and went back to my trusty Trilene 4#.  Was it the lines fault?  Probably not, but it just didn't work for me in my application (you name it - ever other cast was a wind knot, snarl, or other complication.)  I suspect for someone that is waaaaay into line performance, specific lines have characteristics that lend themselves to certain techniques (unlike the manufacturers that would like us to believe they have THE line that is optimum for ALL conditions.) - john

[Flat Top]

Brewcrafter;
I see what you did there!

I dont like to cut down anybodies product but there is one mono line for my bait catching spinning reels that I have used in the past...a "name" brand that had a memory like an elephant. I have this little tool that I can attach to my line and as you cast it will take the memory out of mono...it kind of works opposite the coil direction as you pull it through the water and straightens the line out after a few long casts. The only mono it never worked with was that "name" brand!

I can tell you what I have used for the last 8 years (when it first hit the market or thereabouts) and have had great success with is KastKing Super Power main line and Trilene mono for shock leaders and rigs. Never had a line failure, very little if any memory with the Trilene, and the braid to mono knots (I use an improved Albright knot) have never failed me....its like they were made for each other for my application. I fish some pretty rough conditions (Mississippi and Missouri rivers, and some lakes, and backwaters, and sloughs off the rivers) and that combination has held up well.

But like you say, certain techniques and uses, and cost effectiveness play a part in the line we choose. Whats good for the goose is not necessarily good for the gander.

I have decided to go with 40 lb Super Power with a Trilene 50 lb shock leader for the plastic spool on my Squidder, start off with 3 to 4 oz weights  see where that leads. I hope to try the mono on the aluminum spool and braid on the plastic spool the same day...that "take down" option on the Squidder sure is sweet. 

[Maxed Out]

 Have you considered a Newell spool for your squidder ?