Donnyboat's ABU 7000C Syncro adventure

[mhc]

Don (Donnyboat) had a few problems finding information on a couple of Ambassadeur 7000C Syncro reels he has worked on this year. Big T did a good tutorial a couple of years ago (well it seems like a couple of years ago) but it looks like whichever photo hosting service Big T used no longer supports the photos and Don had trouble following the text only tutorial that it has become. Big T tutorial
The following is Don's description and photos of the last one he worked on.

From Don;

I have an ABU AMBASSADEUR 7000 C Syncro reel, the schematics that suit it best are Ambassadeur 7000 C Syncro, 34-11206-1.
On the foot of this reel is 81 4 90 91 , considering Big T has a tutorial on this forum but I think photo bucket may have removed the pictures, So mhc Mike has suggested I explain & take pictures as I place it back together, as I am not familiar with the part names I will have to use the part numbers on the above schematics. Mike said he will post everything on the forum for me, including the pictures, & I can tell you all I will need all the help I can get
 
So Mike maybe we should start with a link to the schematic
Then move onto the brake plate, part 20075, there are two parts affixed to the break plate, I am unable to find part numbers for them, but I will give close up pictures of them, this was all soaked in vinegar, then cleaned with carb cleaner, & lubed with Yamaha marine grease, also a couple of drops of TSI 321,  Add picture No2 part 20075;



Now to fit part 6933 , there is a post on the left side, also another back on the right side, make sure when placing the part it has to slide back n forth in the groove on the posts, Add Pic No 3



When fixing this into place also attach Springs, 6930x2, & spring 6936, Add pic No 4



Then fit part 6931, this part the pinion pivots in, retained with parts 9741 spring, & retaining cap part 8845, add pic. No5



That's all together, I must admit, part 6931 took some manoeuvring to get into place, & the little spring retaining clip 8845, took off to the never-never for about 40 minutes, so I have the pinion in place now, 6940, & the under gear washer as well, part 6969, add pic No 6.



I will now move to part 20071,this will show where the drag dog slides on the AR ratchet @ the bottom of the main gear add pic No7



OK - time for the 1st Interval - I need to talk to Don about the next few photos and give Don, or anyone else space to add any additional thoughts.

Mike, on behalf of Donnyboat

[Donnyboat]

Good work so far Mike thanks you for coming to my rescue once again, you will all see some of  the parts look very dirty, I stoll them pics from the tar down, I can assure you all they were cleened sparkling before they went back into the reel, Mike is giving me most of the credit for this, but when he told me to do it, lets face it, he is to big for me to argue with, cheers Don,

[mhc]

Part 2 – Take it away Don...
Here's a view of the underside of the main gear showing the two leaf springs that make a clicking sound when losing line against the drag, and under gear washer part 6950, add Pic No 8,



With the main gear and drag washers in place and (the top hat looking) part 20060 to the side of the break plate, add Photo 9



And with 20060 in place, add Photo 10



Next is (sleeve / spacer) part 6958 and the handle, in this photo you will see the handle is upside down to see the cogs on the back, add Photo 11



Before I place the cover on the frames I want to move to the line level area.

Edit by mhc:  A late addition of a photo of the frame, level wind cover and nylon bush I didn't have earlier is shown at the start of my next post as Photo 12

There is a nylon or Delrin bearing that fits into the frame, then the sleeve 2497, line level guide 6916, pawl 5176, then the pawl cover retaining screw cap 5177. Photo 13 shows the other end of the frame with the worm cog 6912, & the retaining plate 5178 add pic No13,



Then on to the tail plate end, I will service the tail plate idler cog,19754, also the clicker parts 8745,4465,4464, add pic 14,



Then the outside, I will take the cap of off the bearing 5224, there is a couple of square brass spacers / shims 5145 inside, I took them out & smooth them by pressing then against a very smooth bright boy disc (with appropriate safety gear ), add Photo No 15,



That's all for now, it's time for the 2nd interval to give Don a chance to check this is on track...

Mike

[Donnyboat]

So there you go even us aussies, have dainty jim boots  & grease and crap under the finger nails

[Gfish]

Nice pictures Don. Good job, it looks almost new in there now.

The 7C-115 washer sets have been ordered(2-of them) and be here in a few days. Had to do it by phone very early this AM(Hawaii to New Jersey time difference).

[Maxed Out]

 Never trust a working man with no grime under the fingernails

 Nice teamwork getting these reels back in action !!

[Donnyboat]

Yes Ted it is working great now, I must weight it, quite heavy for its size. We have quite a few more pictures to come yet, we are about half way at this stage, cheers Don.

[mhc]

Part 3
I will start with a late addition of a photo of the frame, level wind cover and nylon bush I didn't have during my previous post- Photo 12 that that shows the frame and the level wind worm cover with a nylon bush, parts 2497



Now over to Don for the 3rd instalment;

OK now to the tail plate: Replace the bearing 5230, retaining clip 5229, and felt O ring 5142. The bearing size is 3x10x4 (x2), now the square brass shims 5145 & the cap (part 5224 complete), add Pic No 16.



And attached to the frame;



We can move the spool into place, it didn't have any break blocks when I first opened it, it has now, I am not sure of the part numbers as the schematics are not very clear, maybe, 6986 or 1881, add Pic No 18,  with the spool in place, part 975151 complete spool;



Now I have the spool in & the face plate on, part 4016, add pics No 19 & 20,





I thought I might take this pic along the kitchen table so you can see how nice it looks, boss not very happy. The spool looks central, I had to adjust both bearing caps, leaving about 1/32" or 1 ml movement, the caps were never made to use as breaks. (The kitchen table looks fine to me - the only issue is I can't see a vice/vise )

Interval 3

[Donnyboat]

So Greg did you see, the brass plate in the cup, really looks new now, after a little more work against the super smooth bright boy, thanks mike your doing great, got me beat why Bev recons your useless. cheers Don.

[mhc]

Part 4 - Over to Don,

After the handle is part No, 19745 with a clicker and retaining screw holding it to the handle, Add photo 21



After placing flat washer in follow with 2 spring washers 19681, then the star 20066, add Photo 23



There is an O ring Part 19688 (x2) inside the star - note at the bottom of the above picture right side, is part 19687, it screws onto the shaft, followed with a C clip, 4490. I can tell you that C clip took some getting out trying to use a removing tool and a sharp object, the end of my thumb is still very tender. Add pic No 24, with part 19687, & the C clip 4490;



Then a cap 19736, that wasn't with the reel when I started. I turned a replacement cap on the lathe, out of nylon or Delrin rod, but I am not sure if it will stick in place for long. The whitish mystery material cap in the photo was my first attempt - add photo 25





After testing, the drag the pressure is quite good & you can feel the 2 flaps on the bottom going click click, turn the handle back, just a little bit more like a click &  the drag is much lighter. Being a line level reel it really should have mono on it, if you use braid and don't wind it on tight enough, it will dig in as you cast & you rig disappear.
I took a photo of an explanation of how to use the syncro system add photo 26



So that's it, hopefully people can understand it, cheers Don.

[Donnyboat]

After dismantling it,& placing it back together, the secret, with part No- 19687, thats the part just under the sir clip, is to screw it down as far as possible, then it is much easier to remove & apply the sir clip.
      the weight is with a full spool of braid, is-637 Gms, or 14.04 oz, quite a unique bit of engineering, you only have to turn the handle back about 1/8th of a turn when the drag is on,  it will halve the pressure.
      Now it is very important, that we give Mike, very special thanks as we are living about 3000 miles apart, & Mike rang me several times,  to clarify my email, then he broke it down into paragraphs, Great work Man & many thanks.
      So hopefully some one will get some value from this, cheers Don.

[Donnyboat]

Okay please post any questions while it is fresh in my mind.
      also the black cap I made, fits really nice, & I actually need a screw drive to remove it. cheers Don.

[Patudo]

For my money that is the most classic, and also the most handsome 7000.  But I wonder if anyone uses the Syncro system the way Abu intended?  It strikes me as being one of those occasional ideas thought up in Svangsta that might have been mechanically ingenious, but don't work out that well in practical fishing situations (another being the automatic two-speed on the 8000 to 10000 series). 

[Gfish]

Cool! nice job on the cap fabrication. I wish I had that ability. Lost a spool adjustment cap on a Shimano baitcaster once and couldn't get a replacement(out of stock) so I put foil and a zip tie on it.

The syncro-feature actually exists on an Abu spincaster 120 that I have. Definitely something to practice on before fishing it, cause when fishing, it ain't something I"ll remember exists when hooked-up.
I've had 2- well used 9000 Ambassadeur's. Both had corrosion on the cover-plates right around the edges, allowing water to seep in. Bad for saltwater use. But, I think most of the seepage was me rinsing with too much hose pressure.

[Donnyboat]

Yes Greg, there are many reel with the cap missing, and not available anymore, that zip ty was a good idea, the plastic  that I used is good just had enough stretch in it to clip over into position,I dont think it will ever fall of, cheers Don.