If I Could Only Have (1) DAM Quick Reel — This Would be the One

[foakes]

DAM Quick made about 50 reels of top quality, in my opinion.

This was before their merging and moving to Asian manufacturing.

So if I could only have one of the models out of 50 —- which would it be?

For me, it would be a 220.

This is a very versatile reel for nearly any type of fishing.

It will handle any trout up to monster German Browns, bass, Stripers, large cats, back-country trout, crappie, bluegill, walleye, pike, lakers, salmon, steelhead, and more.

The materials and engineering are over and above any typical expectations.  It is a lifetime plus reel.

Machined (not stamped out pot metal alloys) steel, bronze, oversized bearing, aircraft grade aluminum exterior components, reversible left or right with no additional parts needed, worm-drive, a very good value on an exceptional performing reel.  Plus, only 11 ounces.

Fold down bail, fold down handle, bail will close automatically or manually.
 
Pulled out enough new parts to make six of these for anyone who might want one.  Can make plenty more.

Will put these together tomorrow morning and post some completed photos.

Every part is new and unused.  These will be new reels.

Even though all of the components are new —- these will be priced to sell quickly.

If manufactured today, identical to these —- the price range would be around $400.  If each new part was sourced individually —- the price would be in the $600 range.   And likely more when you consider shipping, tax.  Plus the hassle, time, and frustration of not finding all of the parts.

Here they are — all in one place, and new.

These will be $90.
   
Just take a look at the quality of the components.

Each reel will come with a new cloth protective bag, and a spare new bail spring.

Best, Fred

[jgp12000]

I concur Fred,I recently acquired another 220 & added a Fast Eddie ceramic bearing during servicing. It is soooo smooth !!!

https://www.fasteddybearings.com/8x22x7-ceramic-rubber-sealed-bearing-608-2rsc/

[jgp12000]

Fred I recently requested a 220 drag knob because the one that came on my latest 220 is missing the trim ring I am accustomed to.I noticed in the 3rd photo that drag knob is also missing the ring? Did some have it,some not?

[Gfish]

Before I read the text, I was thinking 220 based on the size and durability. Never knew that the bail could be manually closed.

[foakes]

Those drag knobs came both ways, James —-

Both are interchangeable.

The 220's were first produced in 1967, and ran through about 1973.

A little known fact —- the little 110 Microlite shares the same sized gear case as the 220.  Gears are a little larger on the 220, but the sideplates are the same.

110, of course, has a smaller diameter rotor, spool, and front part of the frame.

The 110 & 220 make a nice pair of go-to reels to take on a fishing trip.

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

Before I read the text, I was thinking 220 based on the size and durability. Never knew that the bail could be manually closed.

There's notch in the trip lever, Greg. You need a good strong finger or thumb nail to flip/release it. You can't just pull it over with your hand because the trip lever is resting in a slot in the bail arm. You could do the same thing with the original Cardinal 3 or 4, but their trip lever is resting on a flat spot rather than in a slot when the bail is open.

[Maxed Out]

It wouldn't surprise me if this is a DQ 220

[Gfish]

I'd guess MG 300.

[foakes]

Before I read the text, I was thinking 220 based on the size and durability. Never knew that the bail could be manually closed.

It just closes manually very easily, Greg —-

One hand, even your fingernail is not needed.

The trick is to just ease the bail back a bit to relieve the spring pressure on the trip lever —- then just use your thumb to easily pull the trip lever with its "V" shaped end forward.

You could use your fingernail —- but then the bail will snap back too quickly for my preference.

When I am stealth fishing —- I use the manual bail closing feature regularly.

One other thing about these that is useful —- if you use the trip lever, you can fold the bail down flat against the off handle sideplate. This does two things: First, it helps to protect the bail from getting bent while traveling.  Second, it relieves all of the spring pressure on the bail spring —- which in turn will allow your bail spring to remain crisp and strong, plus it will prolong the bail spring indefinitely since it is not under constant pressure when stored.

This is just like using a new pocketknife properly.  As soon as you understand exactly how it opens and closes —- it just becomes second nature.

Best, Fred

[foakes]

It wouldn't surprise me if this is a DQ 220

Greg is right, Ted —-

Mitchell 300.  Good reels, but the DAM Quick 220 is three times as tough and strong —- gears, crankshafts, bearing, casing, A/R, and much more.

For most of us, if we had them both apart on the bench —- the differences would be very obvious.

Best, Fred

[festus]

I was blessed with a DAM Quick 220 on my 16th birthday. Still have it. At first I was a little disappointed it wasn't a Mitchell 300, but as Fred said, the DAM Quick is much higher quality.

[foakes]

Done...

All (6) 220's from new parts are ready to go.

Finished up early afternoon.

Heading down to Church mañana,  will lay out the parts to build a half dozen 110 Microlites to add to the pile tomorrow afternoon.

Then a half dozen Super 270's.

Then maybe a half dozen 265 Microlites.

All built with 100% new parts inside & out.

Best, Fred

[jgp12000]

Fred,I used mothers on my 220 emblems with my low speed harbor freight dremel with a buffing wheel & it doesn't shine like yours.I do have a high speed dremel with a brass brush,how are you getting the emblems so shiny?

Thnx,
James

[foakes]

Fred,I used mothers on my 220 emblems with my low speed harbor freight dremel with a buffing wheel & it doesn't shine like yours.I do have a high speed dremel with a brass brush,how are you getting the emblems so shiny?

Thnx,
James

I very carefully use a Dremel tool with a circular SS steel fine brush.  Then rinse and allow to dry.  Then Nevr-Dull, and a microfiber final buff.

Safety glasses that go over my reading glasses are a solid must.  No exceptions.  Got lots of parts, but only one pair of eyes.

It may take a couple to get a feel for the speed and the edges so the paint isn't affected.

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

One thing to remember, they'll just tarnish again pretty soon if they're not sealed or clear coated.