Penn Torque 25: is magging it possible?

[Joker]

By a stroke of luck, I acquired a Torque 25. Long story. Short version: my pal could not control the spin of the spool.

Well, loaded the new toy with some 27lbs XX mono and headed to the nearest body of water. First few casts were fine. Had to use my thumb to control the spin of the spool. Obviously lost some distance.

Then I started putting my back into the next couple of casts. That's when my trouble started. backlash and then some.

That spool spins forever. I didn't want to turn the spool tension knob all the way down.

Rare Earth magnets came to mind. I've googled "adding magnets to reels" and found some interesting articles. Nothing on the Torque 25 though.

I know the some of the guys who use the Torque 40 down here have slowed down the spool by adding a "heavier" lubricant/oil to the bearings. That is a short term solution, I think.

My questions though.

1. Is it possible to add Rare Earth Magnets to the Torque 25?  
2. Has it been done?
3. Which size magnet/s was/were used?

Thank you in advance.

Ps. Will be using this little monster from the beach.  

[alantani]

hopefully someone will get back to you.  i've never magged a reel.   

[michaelc]

Does it have the adjustable centrifugal cast contol? You need to take the side plate off to access it on the Fathom.

[Joker]

Does it have the adjustable centrifugal cast contol? You need to take the side plate off to access it on the Fathom.

I know the Fathom has the centrifugal cast control. The Torque however has none.

[Joker]

hopefully someone will get back to you.  i've never magged a reel.   

Thanks Alan

I know someone will be able to help or point me in the right direction.

[CapeFish]

if the magnets fit in between the sideplate and spool you should be able to do it, strange that they put cast control on the fathom and not on the torque

[Joker]

if the magnets fit in between the sideplate and spool you should be able to do it, strange that they put cast control on the fathom and not on the torque

That's what I thought too. With the freespool/spindle design, this reel spins like a top.

As for the space between the side plate and spool, there seems to be enough.

I've added some "heavier" grease to the spool bearings, and this has slowed the spinning time quite a bit. Just to take it for a cast to see the results.

[snagger]

look up magging a squidder ......if the spool is aluminum and you have room in the side plate you should be able to do it......lee valley products has the cups and the magnets.....use modeling clay to see how much room you have between the spool and the side plate..........or try this .....in stead of thumbing the spool where the line is thumb the spool on the edge where the spool meets the frame......remember you are not trying to slow the spool down you are preventing the spool from over spinning.....the lightest touch on the bare spool will do this.....do short distances first the progress you brain has to learn what it feels like.......don't forget to stop the spool completely when the sinker/bait/plug hits the water

[willybendit]

there`s a bloke that buys gear off  dawn @ smoothdrag    Russell  he will have the kit/parts  to mag your reel  check out his website  (www.Blakdog tackle.com )   regards Alain

[Dominick]

there`s a bloke that buys gear off  dawn @ smoothdrag    Russell  he will have the kit/parts  to mag your reel  check out his website  (www.Blakdog tackle.com )   regards Alain

Alain:  Modify this post and fix the link.  It is broken as written.  Take out the space. Dominick

[Dominick]

look up magging a squidder ......if the spool is aluminum and you have room in the side plate you should be able to do it......lee valley products has the cups and the magnets.....use modeling clay to see how much room you have between the spool and the side plate..........or try this .....in stead of thumbing the spool where the line is thumb the spool on the edge where the spool meets the frame......remember you are not trying to slow the spool down you are preventing the spool from over spinning.....the lightest touch on the bare spool will do this.....do short distances first the progress you brain has to learn what it feels like.......don't forget to stop the spool completely when the sinker/bait/plug hits the water

X2 Snagger is right on.  Dominick

[Keith K]

...or try this .....in stead of thumbing the spool where the line is thumb the spool on the edge where the spool meets the frame......remember you are not trying to slow the spool down you are preventing the spool from over spinning.....the lightest touch on the bare spool will do this.....do short distances first the progress you brain has to learn what it feels like.......don't forget to stop the spool completely when the sinker/bait/plug hits the water

This.

[Joker]

Thanks for the reply guys.

Wrt thumbing the side of the spool, I have been doing that. The "paint" has now disappeared off that side of the "lip"

The "thicker" grease has helped some. I still need to thumb the spool.

[snagger]

you are always going to thumb the spool . that why the expression ''educated thumb''.
here the deal......you will always get farther casts from correctly thumbing the spool than you will with any braking device. when casting a coventional the problem exists about halfway in the cast the line starts to balloon off the spool because the spool is now faster than the line going out this is when the breaking or slowing should occur. so with an educated thumb there is hardly any contact with the spool on the first part of the cast
and more in the mid flight........with any breaking device mags or mechanical the breaking is more strong in the begining and lighter in mid flight............in addition with an educated thumb you can account for wind direction ...some times i hardly make contact with the spool when i have a north wind at my back

[CapeFish]

Im not so sure about the thumbing, if you look at Danny Moeskops who holds pretty much all the world casting records, he does not touch the spool, he uses mag control