NEED HELP WITH THESE DOWNRIGGERS

[Dominick]

I need some help.  I am doing some work on my buddy's boat (gotta maintain it if I am going to fish from it).  I set out some photos.  I have several questions.  I do not know the brand of these downriggers.  I was told they were generic from Bayliner.  The boat is a Bayliner Trophy, so it could be correct.  I do not know how to use these.  I have used Cannon and Scotty.

1.  does the weight go down with the weight of the ball or does it go down electrically?
2.  If it goes down electrically should there be 2 switches or does the switch operate up or down?
3.  Why are there 2 holes in the rear?  Did they originally have 2 switches?
4.  I am going to rewire them, what guage wire would you consider safe to use?  Note that the switch is 21 amps.
5.  If only one hole is needed for an up and down switch what would be a good way to cover the other hole or should I put two switches in one for up and one for down. 
Dominick

[seaeagle2]

Your pictures didn't make it into the post.  Here on the west coast we mostly see Scottys and Cannons, and Penns  in the great lakes they use a lot of Walkers, Big Jon and a few other brands we don't see, (think saltwater corrosion).  You might check out this website, http://www.glanglerforum.com/forum/forum.php

[akfish]

The frame looks like a Cannon, but the inside is not like the Cannons I have worked on. But to try to answer a couple questions: I suspect you drop the weight by turning the knob to back off the drag. Try that and see if the pressure on the pool loosens. You might also be able to lower the weight by pushing the switch down and push it up to raise the weight. I suspect the second hole is for a reset switch; all Cannons I have seen have a holes to accommodate a reset switch and I suspect this one does too. That said, you may be biting off more than you want to chew. Old electric downriggers are always suspect, and without a schematic or source of parts....

[seaeagle2]

I think it looks like this one, which would make it an old Digitrol II with out the digitrol stuff, http://www.ebay.com/itm/CANNON-DIGI-TROL-II-ELECTRIC-FISHING-DOWNRIGGERS-troll-parts-repair-/221041811872?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33771e61a0

Here's a link to a schematic.  http://www.fish307.com/productimages/cannon/parts/dt2.pdf

[Dominick]

seaeagle:  Yes it does look like that.  These are new to me.  I was told that they work, but I have not tried them yet, I want to rewire them first.
Akfish:  I may just take them out Jerry-rigged and test them to see how they work.  If they do work we can rewire and clean them up.  Both you guys thanks for your response.  Anyone else have experience with these downriggers, please chime in.  Dominick

[Bryan Young]

No experience with down riggers, but experienced with wiring.  Be sure to use a good electrically conductive grease at your quick connects.  Brush on a thin layer will keep some of the moisture from corroiding away the switch terminals.  Never use solder in wiring that is used on boats unless it is applied to a printed circuit board.  Solder will wick up the wire and make it harder, but the strands ten to break where the solder ends when it is exposed to vibration and microvibration.

[redsetta]

...but the strands tend to break where the solder ends when it is exposed to vibration and microvibration.

Great info, thanks Bryan.

[Dominick]

No experience with down riggers, but experienced with wiring.  Be sure to use a good electrically conductive grease at your quick connects.  Brush on a thin layer will keep some of the moisture from corroiding away the switch terminals.  Never use solder in wiring that is used on boats unless it is applied to a printed circuit board.  Solder will wick up the wire and make it harder, but the strands ten to break where the solder ends when it is exposed to vibration and microvibration.

Bryan:  I don't know much about wiring or soldering, but I am under the impression that the solder will only migrate to the part that has been fluxed.  Is this true?  Are there special conductive greases or will good old Yamaha Marine grease do?  Dominick

[Keta]

 Are there special conductive greases or will good old Yamaha Marine grease do?  Dominick

De-Ox and No Corrode is what I use.  I'm in the "no solider camp" for marine wiring, I don't like dissimilar metals coming in contact and try to eliminate this potential problem.

[Dominick]

  Are there special conductive greases or will good old Yamaha Marine grease do?  Dominick

De-Ox and No Corrode is what I use.  I'm in the "no solider camp" for marine wiring, I don't like dissimilar metals coming in contact and try to eliminate this potential problem.

Lee:  Is No Corrode the stuff that is used on battery terminals?  Dominick

[Keta]

De-Ox is an electrical product originally for aluminum wire, the stuff you are thinking of should work.