What to do with a new Penn 115L2?

Started by JasonF, June 11, 2012, 01:13:19 AM

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Makule

Quote from: Alto Mare on July 07, 2012, 05:54:32 PM
Quote from: Makule on July 07, 2012, 04:59:10 PM
Quoteit was actually his idea.
Translation:  Bryan made me do it.

I'm a big boy Albert, no need to hide behind abyone ;D, my intention was to give credit were its due. Bryan is a smart guy ;).

BTW Albert, if there wasn't anything special in those gears, could you explane why they didn't rust, as the cut nail did?

Always good to get a rise out of Sal.

Yes, the steel that the gears are made of is high quality, with a very precise alloy content.  It's conceivable that there is a very small chromium content (not as much are even hardened SS, which has less than high corrosion resistance, but softer, SS) as well, since corrosion resistance would have been desirable too.  Nails, on the other hand, are generally made with whatever cheap steel is available.  If you've been around long enough, you know that the nails of today are not as good as nails made 50 years ago.  It's because the steel has changed to inferior stuff due to economics.  Nails are usually put in place, many at a time, to hold things.  Consequently, a failure of one (or several) isn't usually disastrous.  Gears cannot have "weak links" and must be made consistent and consistently strong.  A failure of even one tooth of one gear can lead to catastrophic damage (or plant shutdown) so their quality must be significantly higher.
I used to be in a constant state of improvement.  Now I'm in a constant state of renovation.

Makule

QuoteSal is that an old 10/0? 

While not Sal, I do know that the reel shown is a vintage 10/0.  If you look at the counterbalanced handle, and the 3-piece spools, that immediately indicates the early manufacture.

We have digressed a bit from
QuoteWhat to do with a new Penn 115L2
.  My apologies.
I used to be in a constant state of improvement.  Now I'm in a constant state of renovation.

Alto Mare

I could never get too upset with you Albert, you already know that.


Yes Harry, that is a 10/0...good eye ;).
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Bruce

After all this I wonder the point of ss gears if they are not marine grade, know there many ss alloys,some rust quite readily and many are not as good as other steels for the purpose of gears.
If some steel gears go, purportedly  because os frame flex I would prefer a rigid frame and marine bronze gears.
  ABU it seems has for years made this a major advertiseing point.
  Maybe someone will step up to titanium.


              buzz
Buzz

Makule

Quote from: Buzz on July 07, 2012, 10:51:55 PM
After all this I wonder the point of ss gears if they are not marine grade, know there many ss alloys,some rust quite readily and many are not as good as other steels for the purpose of gears.
If some steel gears go, purportedly  because os frame flex I would prefer a rigid frame and marine bronze gears.
  ABU it seems has for years made this a major advertiseing point.
  Maybe someone will step up to titanium.
              buzz

My thinking is that hardened steel gears would outlast marine bronze in terms of strength, and may be better than hardened SS.  Marine bronze may be the best in terms of corrosion resistance.

You know, everything is a matter of compromise.  SS can be had in very corrosion resistant alloys, hardenable alloys, and in between.  Restaurant grade sheets (used in kitchens) are very corrosion resistant, but aren't very hard (wouldn't work for gears).  Spring stainless (e.g., 440C) is hard, but does rust  (but is still a stainless).  Used for knives.  You then move to much harder alloys that don't wear (but may be brittle), and rust much faster because of the higher carbon content. 

The more "exotic" (i.e., less commonly used) the alloy, the higher the cost (usually).  The question is, "When is enough, enough".  Compared to what's currently being used, perhaps there are better gear materials available (I'm quite sure there are).  The other issue, however, is what cost the consumer is willing to pay.  Right now, hardened, high speed SS gears for the 113H can be had for about $80 retail.  Most consider that to be high.  However, what if someone came out with a comparable gear set that had much better corrosion resistance (like ceramic), and 4x the strength (essentially unbreakable).  Would $150 per set be reasonable?  In my view, what is currently available is good enough, so "better" isn't necessary (unless better also means less expensive, then it become more desirable).

As far as titanium, I don't know that much about it.  What I do know is that there is confusion about its characteristics.  For example, some say that titanium is stronger than steel.  It may be "stronger" (there are different kinds of strength such as tensile, yield, elongation, flex, etc) by weight, but according to one webpage (easy summary),

QuoteSteel is used where there is a need for a hardened material, like axles for cars or trucks, whereas titanium structures do not guarantee longevity and have a fatigue limit.  Certain claims by marketing associates and companies gave way for the controversy to rise that titanium is stronger than steel, but unlike the claim, the best steel is stronger than titanium alloys.

In other words, titanium has its advantages and uses.  For high stress applications, like gears, it's probably not as good a material as hardened steel.

Again, we digress...
I used to be in a constant state of improvement.  Now I'm in a constant state of renovation.

day0ne

Quote from: JasonF on July 06, 2012, 02:24:06 AM
Sal, I do agree with the fact that your handle looks rugged.  I love the arm but the jumbo grip feels weird even though I have large hands.  I am going to see if he can sell just the arm and I will put on my standard T-bar handle.


Cheers! J

Just an FYI, but the handle from a Sealine 600h will fit the 114H/115 and is only $7.99 here: http://stores.tunasreeltroubles.com/-strse-210/DAIWA-747-dsh-4111-HANDLE/Detail.bok
and $10.35 from Daiwa. It's a 2 position handle and is about an inch or so longer than the Penn Handle. Drill the knob off and use your T-bar
David


"Lately it occurs to me: What a long, strange trip it's been." - R. Hunter

JasonF

I just wanted to give an update on this project.  9 months since I started this project and I have not been offshore without it.  Countless yellowfin, blackfin, sharks and even a 150ish pound (released) blue marlin have been taken on it.  I have always kept the drag at 20#.  It has performed flawlessly (except an annoying handle).  I have mostly used it when chunking but it has been in the trolling spread quite a bit.  Trolling with a star drag is different for me.  I have zero regret in the time that I put into it, In fact I (luckily) got another 9/0 Accuframe and plan to build a second!  Now that winter is winding down I am going to service it, to include the 7+1 drag upgrade not for an increase in set drag, but for performance at the current setting as I have no intent of using braid. 

I honestly enjoy the nostalgia of Senators enough to compensate for what they lack in performance.  To do the old school reel justice I am building old school rods for them with wood butt sections, no roller guides and other uneccesary details from grandpa's day.....but built on Calstar Graphiter blanks to compensate for weight (and make them cool!).

Thanks again for the help that you guys have given me.  Your input directly resulted in equipment that has given me countless days of enjoyment!

Cheers! J

George4741

Jason,
It's good to hear you are using and enjoying it.  As you are showing, they are very capable reels.  One of my friends always brings his 9/0 when we fish for albacore and gets lots of attention, too.   
viurem lliures o morirem