lubricants

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 05:40:30 PM

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nagz

Hi folks
Just wondering if castrol boating grease would be an adequate alternative to the Yamaha blue marine grease for larger reels and bearings?
This grease is also blue in colour and I assume its marine grade
Cheers

nagz

It's lithium complex based if that means anything

alantani

not sure.  it's more a matter of what you like working with.
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

nagz

Thanks alan

I guess it can't hurt

I hope :)

alantani

you'll be fine.  i've stuck with yamaha marine for so long because i'm old and changes are hard for me......    :'(
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

JGB

My understanding is that Lithium based is water resistant while Calcium based is water proof. I believe
the original Yamalube used a Calcium complex. The new Yamalube does not mention it's ingredients.

Jim N.



edgarz

Just want to share what I found on the net;

http://www.dowcorning.com/content/molykote/tacky.aspx?wt.svl=molykote_g1502fm_banner_hor_EN

If this would be too tacky for gears then maybe it would be good for coating the insides of the reel case. They're offering a free sample kit so I'll try it out.

JC Wileman

? --- Has anyone used the Inox products? Compared them with Tsi 301? Corrosion X? Etc?


quote author=alantani link=topic=50.msg4507#msg4507 date=1284578783]
Quote


Grease

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Alan,
I have read through your thread on greases and oils. I am west coast rep for a product called Inox. Inox was developed in Australia as a anti-corrosion, anti-moisture protective penetrating lubricant for the corrosive elements of the salt mines over 23 years ago.
We have both greases and oils along with a battery conditioner that will reverse the sulphation process which is what kills the battery.
Our products contain no Acid, Silicon, Kerosene or Dieselene. Inox will not dry out, become gooey or sticky or wash off with water. Inox contains no petro-chemicals which makes them non-hyrdoscopic. Petroleum based product draw moisture to them as the base evaporates. Our product base is a mix of high grade machine oils. We add to them to modifiy our product for different applications. Sometimes adding high grade Teflon or lanolin for add lubrication or protection.
Our products are non-toxic. Five off our best selling products are food grade with a Kosher certification. Some off our customers included include NASA, Kennedy Space Center, Fedex, Harley Davidson and Avet.
Our products are available in some tackle shops with more to come. Anglers Choice, Last Chance and Point Loma Tackle. We currently have non-paid write ups in Offshore Angler and Marlin Magazine.
I would like to send you some samples and some information about the different uses of our products. Please visit our websites for other information about Inox Products.

johnjordan@inoxlube.com
(951) 551-0851 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              (951) 551-0851      end_of_the_skype_highlighting
__________________
GO CLEAN! GO GREEN! GO INOX!
http://www.inoxlube.com


[/quote]
See you out there!
JC Wileman
"Straight Up" - 32' Uniflite

alantani

#158
i've tried inox red grease and it's fine! 

it is really, really hard to compare lubricants in systematic and objective way.  for greases, if you spread a thin layer on a surface, the protection should be adequate.  and this is for almost any grease.  some are just really unpleasant to work with. the wheel bearing greases come to mind.  they are incredibly sticky.  most of the guys that work with me absolutely hate working with them.  i like the dark blue greases in particular because they are easy to work with and stay blue for ever.  you can crack open a reel even years after you service it and know that you've worked on that reel before.  

oils are another matter.  the thicker something is, the longer is hangs around.  the thinner something is, the better it spins.  remember that xtreme teflon lube we were working with before?  spools would spin like crazy.  it was incredible stuff.  the problem was that that the reels would slow down after a couple of weeks.  what about corrosion x or reel x?  it would last 6 months, maybe a year, sometimes more.  spin times were ok.  then jim nomura found tsi 301.  spools would spin like crazy, almost as good as that dry teflon lube.  and i have some reels that still spin after 4 years.  next,i'm going to try tsi 321, which is the pure lubricant with none of the solvent.  we will see how this stuff works.  

through out all of these, we are still working mostly blind.  the problem is that do not know exactly what is in these products.  we also need to have a reliable testing model so that these different lubes can be evaluated on an objective basis.  until we have this, we simply have to go by experience.  so we have cal's grease for drag washers, yamaha blue marine grease for all non-exposed metal surfaces, corrosion x as a general all purpose lube for places where an oil is required, tsi 301 for bearings and levelwind assemblies where you need a spool to really spin.  and lastly, i'm going to start using tsi 321, even though it's thicker, because it might be easier to work with (and to ship overseas!!!!).  

and that, jc wileman, is where i'm at!  not much, huh ......   :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

wallacewt

hi jc wileman
just a thought.if you live in the usa why use inox?
in australia inox is great
cals is $64 a small tub
tsi301 is close to $40 a small can
i dont know what the other stuff costs
ive used cals and mx8(inox)and couldnt tell the difference
tub of mx8 is $16aud
stick to what alan tells you.
its harder for us downunder. and dearer cheers










broadway

     I have used fluid film on my bro's jet ski for 2 years and it has worked nicely.  I will be trying f.f. on my chromed over spools before putting on my wire line.  I've used Boeshield, Corrosion X, amongst many other lubes starting with WD-40 (prior to using this site.) It works great on the jet ski engine to displace water, prevent corrosion, and it stays in place for a long time (all season if you let it.) 
Here's the link...http://www.kellsportproducts.com/AS&NAS.html
   
     Another product I'd like to bring to your attention is CRC freeze-off super penetrant (watch your fingers-frost bite!)
I just ordered a can, so I can't vouch for it, but reviews say it works well. I'm hoping it may help free up some pinions, screws, and bushings.  I'll keep yas posted on my findings.
Here's the link...http://www.crcindustries.com/files/Freeze-Off%20Brochure.pdf
   
     Lastly, I used that canned air stuff upside down with the straw(careful frost-bite) on a trim ring that wouldn't budge.  I didn't wanna wait to put it in the freezer, so I had at it with my can of air and thin knife.  In two easy prys it was off with no mess at all.)
     
(I have no affiliation what-so-ever with ANYONE!)

Hope I help someone before they pull all of their hair out ;)
Dom
     

Fullstrike

#161
Fluid film is an excellent product.  I wipe down all my reel rods guns etc with it and it works great.

I am interested if you think TS301 and Fluid Film are comparable in terms of effectiveness when lubricating reel bearings?

ossipeter

Does it also works in saltwater?

broadway

It is fantastic in salt water.
I wouldn't put it in my bearings because it does seem to attract particles of whatever comes near it.
Those particles wouldn't effect something like a hinge but bearings are way more precise.
I think you guys will really like the stuff
All the best
Dom

JC Wileman

 ;D
Quote from: alantani on February 05, 2013, 06:05:04 AM
i've tried inox red grease and it's fine! 

it is really, really hard to compare lubricants in systematic and objective way.  for greases, if you spread a thin layer on a surface, the protection should be adequate.  and this is for almost any grease.  some are just really unpleasant to work with. the wheel bearing greases come to mind.  they are incredibly sticky.  most of the guys that work with me absolutely hate working with them.  i like the dark blue greases in particular because they are easy to work with and stay blue for ever.  you can crack open a reel even years after you service it and know that you've worked on that reel before.  

oils are another matter.  the thicker something is, the longer is hangs around.  the thinner something is, the better it spins.  remember that xtreme teflon lube we were working with before?  spools would spin like crazy.  it was incredible stuff.  the problem was that that the reels would slow down after a couple of weeks.  what about corrosion x or reel x?  it would last 6 months, maybe a year, sometimes more.  spin times were ok.  then jim nomura found tsi 301.  spools would spin like crazy, almost as good as that dry teflon lube.  and i have some reels that still spin after 4 years.  next,i'm going to try tsi 321, which is the pure lubricant with none of the solvent.  we will see how this stuff works.  

through out all of these, we are still working mostly blind.  the problem is that do not know exactly what is in these products.  we also need to have a reliable testing model so that these different lubes can be evaluated on an objective basis.  until we have this, we simply have to go by experience.  so we have cal's grease for drag washers, yamaha blue marine grease for all non-exposed metal surfaces, corrosion x as a general all purpose lube for places where an oil is required, tsi 301 for bearings and levelwind assemblies where you need a spool to really spin.  and lastly, i'm going to start using tsi 321, even though it's thicker, because it might be easier to work with (and to ship overseas!!!!).  

and that, jc wileman, is where i'm at!  not much, huh ......   :-\
See you out there!
JC Wileman
"Straight Up" - 32' Uniflite