Penn 113h first time maintenance. Is something wrong?

Started by Augie3000, October 05, 2012, 10:57:36 PM

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Augie3000

Hi all.  I followed Dom's advice and bought two 113h reels off of Ebay.  Both were in pretty good shape.  I finally got all my parts delivered and all my tools in order.  Today I went through the first reel and replaced the drags and gave it a good once over.  This is my first time doing this.  When I put the reel back together, everything seemed ok and seemed to work correctly.  However, if I back the drag all the way off, the handle doesn't crank effortlessly; it has some resistance.  When I tighten the drag a little the resistance goes away and everything seems to be in order.  I don't know if this was happening before I took the reel apart or not.  Also, the drag seems to be working properly otherwise and I can tighten it down.  Here are some pics of the maintenance. 

Here's the old drag stack.



And here's the new stack with the old metal washer under the main gear replaced by a 6-875 from scotts penn parts.


I checked the height of the stack.  Here it is.  When the reel was assembled that eared washer seems to stay in place and not ride above the lip of the gear.  So I don't "think" that is the problem, if there even is a problem.  ???










Oh, I forgot to take a picture of putting in the dog, but you can see its in in the next pics.












So, do I have an issue here? Or is this just normal?

Thanks so much.  I couldn't have gotten anywhere near this far without all your help so far.

Augie

Alto Mare

Nice pictures Augie. The problem is with your drag stack, the last eared washer should be flush with the gear , yours is above. here is a shot of mine, the plate on the right is soimilar to yours:



Check your metal keyed washers one should be thicker and it goes at the very top. Good luck!
Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Augie3000

Thanks Sal.  I'll crack it open again tomorrow and give this a try and let you know how it goes. 

Augie

Alto Mare

Not a problem, just make sure that you'll end up with (2) keyed washers at the top, one should be thicker but it doesn't matter.
You did a great job by the way, all it need is a minor adjustment with the drags. Take care.
Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

seaeagle2

The old school 113h's with the big hole side plate, had the gear where the slot doesn't go all the way to the bottom so the eared washers won't sit low enough.
"One life, don't blow it" Kona Brewing
\"If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there\'d be a shortage of fishing poles\" Doug Larson

Cone

With a carbon fiber washer then a keyed washer then a carbon fiber  then the eared washer the depth of the slots shouldn't be a problem.
"Quemadmoeum gladuis neminem occidit, occidentis telum est." (A sword is never a killer, it is a tool in the killer's hands.)
   -    Lucius Annaeus Seneca, circa 4 BC – 65 AD

Bryan Young

Also, if it's hard to crank, and cranks easily when the drag is tightened, then the drag stack is too high and rubbing against the side plate.  No problem if you keep the drag cranked down a bit.  I just hope that the drag is within range that you want.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Alto Mare

#7
Quote from: seaeagle2 on October 06, 2012, 03:19:34 AM
The old school 113h's with the big hole side plate, had the gear where the slot doesn't go all the way to the bottom so the eared washers won't sit low enough.
Seaeagle, we keep going back and forth with this. The slots will only be an issue if you use the extra thin carbon washers for the 1+7 configuration, even then I'm not so sure. The gear slots not going all the way at the bottom will never interfere with the standard 1+5 drag stack configuration. When you place the washers in, as you already know, you will start with a carbon washer first, second washer is keyed and the third washer is another carbon washer. This will bring you to 3mm or more up, you'll then place the eared washer, which will fit in the slots with no issues and you'll keep going.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Augie3000

Quote from: Alto Mare on October 05, 2012, 11:34:35 PM
Not a problem, just make sure that you'll end up with (2) keyed washers at the top, one should be thicker but it doesn't matter.
You did a great job by the way, all it need is a minor adjustment with the drags. Take care.
Sal

Sal, I am working on the reel now and just layer out the drag washers like you have them in your picture, but I only have three (3) total keyed washers.  ???  One of them is thicker than the rest.  But, I can't line them up like yours and have two (2) at the top because I run out.  The PEnn Parts website says to arrange them as follows: starting from the bottom of the main gear up: fiber, keyed, fiber, eared, fiber, THICK Keyed, fiber, eared, fiber, keyed. 

Will this work?  If not, any suggestions?

Augie

Augie3000

Here's the link to the Penn Parts washer config. I was talking about.  

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-113HSP.aspx


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Bryan Young

Put the thick keyed washer at the top and that should solve your problems with the eared washer.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Augie3000

Hey Bryan, I was just about to tell you what happened because I just tried this.  It did solve the issue of the eared washer sitting too high.  However, the stack is still to high in total and rubs against the side plate when the drag is not tightened down making resistance when i turn the handle.  Resistance goes away when I tighten the drag down still though.  Can I take out some part of the stack so it doesn't do this?  Or should I just live with it?

Augie

Alto Mare

The layout that you're showing from Penn Parts will need an additional keyed washer on the plate with the easy access drags, that keyed washer is thicker than the ones in the kit, I usually use one from the old drags stack. Your robbing doesn't have anything to do with the drags, on that particular model you can fit as many drags and spacers as it will take and it will never rub. The rubbing is from your gear, if you've used the correct washer under the gear, this should not happen.  You could let it go and I'm sure it will set itself after a couple of trips. If it is bothering you, take the gear out and rub the top on some sandpaper or hit it on a grinding wheel if you have one, you only need very little off.
Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Augie3000

Ok, sorry, now I am pretty confused. 

1. I did not save any of the washers from the old drag stack.  I know, not smart.  Can I still use the set I got from pennparts in some configuration on this reel?  I did order two of the washer sets from penn parts so I could mix and match from the other set if need be. 

2. As for the rubbing, what part of the gear would I sand down?  I used a 6-875 washer under the main gear which penn parts said was compatible.  Should I try something else? 


Alto Mare

Hello Augie. It's not a problem if you got rid of the older washers, try to hold on to them next time, they will always come handy.
The reason I use two keyed at the top is that there is too much space and it helps minimize  tension springs, (belleville). Use the sping washers to make up the space, you could use some under the star and maybe one under the handle...above the star. Use as many as you need, I like to set my drag really low, you can adjust yours with spacers as you like. The washer that you've used for under the gear (6-875) is the correct washer, the gear  should not rub, but in your case it does. About sanding down the gear, some like to carve the plate, I don't like to do that, I've found that it's much easier to just sand the top of the gear a little, we're talking a hair. Check out my other post on upgrading a Jigmaster and you'll see what I'm talking about.  Before you do anything else, assemble everything and crank down on the drag as far as you're able to hold the spool while turning the handle and see if it's still rubbing. Take care.
Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.