a 50TW from nemo

[alantani]

http://tx-sharkfishing.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11073

Well, last night I decided to go through my new to me 50w international.  Every piece was pulled apart, cleaned, greased, etc.  I opened up the bearings which were full of hard grease.  Soaked them to remove the old grease and repacked with new marine grease.  Every piece of the reel that could come apart was taken apart.  So, after 40,000 pieces of penn parts on a towel on my kitchen table were cleaned and greased, I figured it was time to put it all back together(keep in mind this is the first time I have had a big reel COMPLETELY apart).  Everything went fine up until I put the handle lock screw through the handle lock and into the handle.  I proceeded to try to tighten it and it wouldn't tighten up.  It was stripped  :evil: .  I just love all of the soft metal parts Penn likes to use  :roll: .  My question is, how should I fix it?  Have someone tap it bigger, get a new handle arm and screw, or don't bother with the lock?  Not sure what other options I may have, any thoughts?  

PS, a big thanks to Alan Tani for the tutorials he has done.  It made life a lot easier seeing it done before I started on mine  :Thumbsup

I think the best thing would be to get a new handle arm. If it isn't an option, tapping them is easy, just be sure to use a cutting fluid on it. Some metals will clog the cutting threads pretty easy and small taps can competely clog real quick, causing them to break in the material your working on. I am not sure, but you may have to enlarge the hole in the locking piece as well. Just drill it out so the new screw will be a snug fit. Taps can be bought at most any hardware store, and aren't usually very expensive.

it's a 5-40 tap.  i have a bunch of extra screws.  let me know if you want one. i also have a stainless steel arm being made, but you won't need it for this.  

so here's what you do.  add oil first.  then get another screw and see if you can screw it out from the back.  hey, it's, worth a shot!  then try a small screw extractor.  finally, figure you will have to drill it out and then retap it.  alan

Thanks for the replies guys.  Alan, I may have to order some stuff from Penn Parts, if so I will just order from them.  If not, I'll probably get one from you.  A couple of questions:  The schematics for the 50tw shows a spool sleeve (key13B).  Mine did not have one.  Penn parts has it, will it fit correctly without modification?  Also shown is a spool bushing (key 173) under the clicker plate that mine did not have.  Is this a necessary part?  Finally, my drag washer looks "slicked off" with most areas not showing the texture of the weave.  Can or should this be cleaned and re-greased, or do you think it is OK?  It does not seem to affect the performance, but I am not that familiar with how it's supposed to feel when pulling drag.  The drag seems reasonably smooth, and after switching the bellevilles as you showed in your tutorial I was getting 45+ lbs of drag.  Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Edit:  Alan, I forgot to ask if I need to do anything about the belleville stack height.  I guess the original ()() would be taller than the (()) I changed it to.  Will this hurt anything to leave it at the shorter height?

ah yes, key #13b is a bearing sleeve or freespool sleeve.  i make them out of brass tubing.  http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=138.0  it will be much cheaper for you to do the same and you should be able to get it perfect.  you want it to be 1-2 thousanths over.  the one from penn is made heavy stainless steel.  if it right on or a shade too long, you're ok.  if it's too short, it has to be shimmed with a washer.  but at $7.35, the penn sleeve might be worth a try.  

don't worry about the spool bushing (key #173).  that was found in newer models.  it holds the bearing in and it's not needed.  

your glazed drag washer may be tricky.  the thing to do is to clean up the old one with an old rag, then grease it with cal's grease, clean off all the grease, install the drag washer and see how well it works.  if it's sticky, get a new one.  

for the belleville stack, try the shorter "(())" configuration as is and see if the preset knob and screw down far enough to still work.  if it does, great!  if not, it will have to be shimmed or you will have to add another belleville.  

please keep us posted.  alan

Alan, I will probably not worry about the spool sleeve.  I have no need right now for freespool.  The drag washer still performs OK, but I am going to re-grease it with Cals and see if it smooths up some.  As far as the bellevilles, I have no problem with the drag working.  It does ramp up a LOT quicker than before.  Once I get the grease ordered, I will regrease the drag and post an update about the performance.  Thanks again Alan.

Here are some pics of the drag.  It looks a lot better after cleaning it.  Now I just need to order some Cals.

Before





A lot of gunk on the drag



After

[alantani]

I think Alan was right about the spool sleeve being too long.  Since I switched the bellevilles, it spins fine, but tilt it to the right and it makes contact and stops.  I am going to leave it for now.  The stripped handle lock screw may have an explanation.  It had the wrong screw in it, a 110-60, which has a square cut shoulder.  The correct 110-50 has a tapered shoulder, and screwed in fine.   The drag, after greasing with Cal's is great.  Very smooth, and set at 28 lbs at strike, which gave me 49-50 lbs at full while having better freespool than without the sleeve.  Alan's 30 SW tutorial was a huge help when I started with this reel.  Thanks again Alan,
keep up the good work.