Anybody know anything about this new Jigmaster gearset on ebay?

[Bryan Young]

Hi Guys
That's the Co. I am getting the Newell gears from.
He is also now making the 500/112H

Dawn

Dawn,

If you are carrying those as well, could you send me a set to confirm fitment...and charge my account?

Thanks
Bryan

P.S. I'd better find reels to install these gears or I'm going to be a gear head. 

[floating doc]

So I guess they're ok. Good to know, but not good that he's undercutting Dawn. Smooth Drag! I wouldn't bid.

[Dawn]

Thanks Floating Doc 
I will get it worked out with him. 

Bryan sent you a message.

Dawn

[Joel.B]

Seller responded to my question from when they first listed  "Hi The gears are made by global precision in Taiwan. The parts are stainless steel 304 and are passivated?
Thank you."  

These look different to me than what Dawn is offering- the finish looks weird

I had to look up "passivated"   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passivation_(chemistry)

and some great info on stainless in marine environments here:  http://www.dieselduck.net/machine/04%20auxiliary/corrosion.htm

"When buying stainless steels, some companies claim that they passivate them. What is passivation, why is it done, and does it make the stainless steel corrode less?

When a stainless steel is passivated, it is put into a bath of an oxidizing acid, such as nitric acid. Stainless steels get their corrosion resistance from the formation of a very thin corrosion product film of uncertain composition called the passive film. It was observed that when stainless steels were first treated with an oxidizing acid, they would later appear to corrode less than if they had not been treated. It was thought that the oxidizing acid somehow thickened the passive film on the stainless steel to make the steel more corrosion resistant. Therefore, the treatment was called passivation. We now know that this treatment doesn't affect the passive film in a way that lasts very long in water. The film will stabilize at the same thickness when exposed to the same water whether or not passiviation has been done. Then why do stainless steels appear to corrode less after passivation? The oxidizing acid treatment is essentially a cleaning process that removes small particles of iron and other impurities that have gotten on the surface of the stainless steel during the rolling process, or are in the structure of the stainless steel itself and happen to be protruding from the surface. These particles corrode in waters that normally don't corrode stainless steels, leaving behind rust or other corrosion products that are readily visible. It looks like the stainless steel is corroding when, in fact, it is only the surface particles that corrode. Cleaning these particles off with the acid treatment means that they will not later corrode and leave behind ugly rust spots. It therefore seems that the stainless steel is corroding less. Some people believe that surface particle corrosion can start pitting corrosion, but controlled tests show that pitting will still happen even if all of these particles are removed.

The reason for the passivation treatment now becomes clear. It makes the stainless steel look prettier after it has been exposed to the water for a while. It actually doesn't affect the corrosion of the stainless steel itself, however. The treatment is fairly cheap, and usually doesn't hurt anything, so manufacturers usually go ahead and do it, just to avoid later questions about "rust" spots forming on their stainless steel. Passivation can be a problem for parts with tight crevices that can trap the acid used. Over time, these acids can cause crevice corrosion. For parts without crevices, passivation does have a benefit if the stainless steel is to be given some later treatment for which a clean surface is necessary. For example, it is prudent to use passivation before painting or plating over the stainless steel."

[Bryan Young]

Have any of you wondered why one Stainless is selected over another. 

For example, I've heard that 301 is stronger than 304 but a a little less corrosion resistant.  316 has better corrosion resistance and has similar strength as 304...

These are things that I had to look at for creating my drag stacks, but not sure how the considerations would apply to gears.

I selected 301 stainless due to it's strength, and figure that the carbon fiber washers will be greased, so will have a low probablility of rust interfering with the drag system since many of us here actually service our own reels or have someone that service them to at least to the same caliber as Alan Tani does.

[Black Pearl]

Seller responded to my question from when they first listed  "Hi The gears are made by global precision in Taiwan. The parts are stainless steel 304 and are passivated?
Thank you."   

These look different to me than what Dawn is offering- the finish looks weird

I had to look up "passivated"   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passivation_(chemistry)

The gear in the picture is for JM 505.

[Bryan Young]

What is JM?  The only time I saw JM referred to Jigging Master.

[Joel.B]

Read this Bryan, just found it, great info http://www.dieselduck.net/machine/04%20auxiliary/corrosion.htm

[Black Pearl]

Have any of you wondered why one Stainless is selected over another. 

For example, I've heard that 301 is stronger than 304 but a a little less corrosion resistant.  316 has better corrosion resistance and has similar strength as 304...

These are things that I had to look at for creating my drag stacks, but not sure how the considerations would apply to gears.

I selected 301 stainless due to it's strength, and figure that the carbon fiber washers will be greased, so will have a low probablility of rust interfering with the drag system since many of us here actually service our own reels or have someone that service them to at least to the same caliber as Alan Tani does.

My resource told me that 316 has better strength 304. The price for the material is 50% difference.

Most tackle manufacturer like to use SS 303 because it is cheaper than 316 or 304.

[Black Pearl]

What is JM?  The only time I saw JM referred to Jigging Master.

My bad JigMaster 505

[Joel.B]

http://www.dieselduck.net/machine/04%20auxiliary/corrosion.htm

Corrosion of Stainless Steels

Aside from steel, stainless steels are the most common construction metals. There are many different types of stainless steels, divided into five major categories by crystal structure type. The austenitic stainless steel alloys, with AISI numbers from 200 to 399, are usually nonmagnetic. The alloys with numbers of 300 or above contain more nickel than those with numbers below 300, and have better seawater resistance. These 300-series alloys are very corrosion resistant, and are used for architectural applications, boat topside fittings, and household goods such as sinks and silverware. The 300-series alloys will usually show no appreciable corrosion in fresh water or sea atmosphere. The 400-series ferritic and the martensitic alloys are usually magnetic, stronger, and less corrosion resistant than the austenitic alloys. They are used for knife blades and certain hand tools. These alloys will sometimes suffer from mild surface rusting when exposed to fresh water or sea atmosphere. Duplex and precipitation hardenable stainless steels are specialty alloys. Some are very strong and not very corrosion resistant, such as 17-4PH, and others have intermediate strength and corrosion resistance between the austenitic and the ferritic or martensitic alloys. There are some specialty alloys that are very corrosion resistant because they add more special elements to the alloy, and are consequently somewhat more expensive than standard grades, such as the austenitic 6XN.

Stainless steels get their corrosion resistance by the formation of a very thin surface film, called the passive film, which forms on the surface in the presence of oxygen. Therefore, stainless steels usually have poor corrosion resistance in low-oxygen environments, such as under deposits, in mud, or in tight places, called crevices, where structures or hardware are attached. This is particularly true in seawater, where the chlorides from the salt will attack and destroy the passive film faster than it can reform in low oxygen areas. All of the stainless steels except the best of the specialty alloys will suffer from pitting or crevice corrosion when immersed in seawater. One of the best 300-series stainless steels is type 316. Even this alloy will, if unprotected, start corroding under soft washers, in o-ring grooves, or any other tight crevice area in as little as one day, and it is not unusual to have penetration of a tenth of an inch in a crevice area after only 30 days in seawater. If water flows fast past a stainless steel, more oxygen is delivered to the stainless steel and it corrodes less. For this reason, stainless steels have been successfully used for impeller blades and propellers. These need to be protected from corrosion when there is no flow.

Painting stainless steels usually does not stop the crevice corrosion; it will occur any place where there is a scratch or nick in the paint. For this reason, I usually recommend against using any stainless steel except certain specialty alloys in seawater for more than a few hours at a time. There is a strong tendency to use in seawater the same materials that work well in fresh water or sea atmosphere, so that types 303, 304, and 316 stainless steel are often used for undersea applications. They will also usually fail if the exposure is long enough, unless they are in continuous solid electrical contact with a material that will provide them with cathodic protection such as steel or aluminum. As soon as the electrical contact is broken, the steel will corrode.

Crevice corrosion of stainless steels happens irregularly, but when it occurs it is very destructive. For example, if 10 stainless steel screws are put in a plate in seawater, it may be that all but one will be un-attacked, as bright and shiny as the day they were made. That one screw, however, may well have attack over one quarter inch deep in only a few months. The attack will occur in crevices where it can't be seen, and will destroy the screw from the inside out. This is because the corrosion starts inside the crevice between the screw and the metal, where it can't be seen, then proceeds inside the metal where there is no oxygen, sometimes hollowing out the part or giving it the appearance of Swiss cheese.

Even the best of stainless steels may have its corrosion resistance affected by the way it is made. For example, 316 stainless steel is very corrosion resistant in fresh water, but when it is welded, the areas next to the welds experience a thermal cycle that can cause that material to corrode. This is called sensitization, and can lead to the appearance of knife-line attack next to welds. This is why certain heat treatments should be avoided with this and similar alloys. On the other hand, a low-carbon version of 316, called 316L, will not be sensitized, and can be welded with little effect on corrosion properties.

Austenitic stainless steels can suffer from stress corrosion cracking to various degrees when fully immersed in seawater. Stress corrosion cracking is cracking without much metal loss in the presence of a continuous applied load in the environment. If a susceptible material fails by cracking and has numerous side cracks besides the one causing the failure, stress corrosion cracking should be suspected. The ferritic and duplex stainless steels usually do not have this problem.

[Bryan Young]

Very interesting...  Thanks Joel and Alan.

[Black Pearl]

Very interesting...  Thanks Joel and Alan.

There is one most important element when making fishing tackle gear set that it is expertise in fishing tackle. Just because a company has some machines to make gear set, it does not mean that it can make fishing gear set. There are a lot of thing going on in the back ground. You can not just send a gear set (eg, an Accurate) and has it copies by the shop. The shop needs to revert engineering the gear set and see if there is any improvements it can be made. When the gear set parts are finished, it must be tested and make sure all parts can be replaced the OEM parts without any alternation (simply is opening reel, removing OEM parts, installing replacement parts, greasing replacement parts, closing reel and ready for fishing).

You won't see any big company (PENN or Shimano) will ask any factory to make gears parts for it. Those companies know where they are. Trust me on that one.

[Ron Jones]

Joels post is why silicone bronze, or especially monel, is preferred in boat building. Stainless will fail if continously submerged.

Ron

[Black Pearl]

Well, someone just bought 5 sets from the ebay seller.