Penn 506, 30# Casting Rig aka overwhelmed

Started by otghoyt, January 12, 2014, 06:08:18 PM

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otghoyt

Hate to start a new thread but.......I need some knowledge here.  I have a 506HS with Tib barless frame, aluminum spool and stainless gears.  I built myself a killer 8 foot fast action, casting rod from builder supplies obtained through the Mud Hole people.  Came out perfect, I mean, no excuses, absolutely beautiful, perfect! 

I want to hear from the locals here what upgrades they think the, old's cool 506, could use to produce a really balanced casting package.  Performance and reliability are paramount.  All the cool stainless and carbon candy you guys have made for for the 500 family of reels is just making my head spin. I really WANT the SS bridge, yoke, eccentric package.  I think the 506's high speed torque could use some of Kretta's long horsepower cranks. 

Tell me whatcha all be thinkin.............

WOTHoyt

Keta

The 501 and 506 are hard to beat right out of the box, I only reel I think could be better is imposable, converting the Surfmaster 100 to 4:1.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

Alto Mare

Since you said out of the box, I'm not so sure about the 506, the pinion isn't great on those :-\.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Ron Jones

That is my only concern also. I'd recommend a set of 5:1 stainless gears, yoke and a stainless gear sleeve and dog. Then double dog and you should be fine. Alan's new bridge package coming out soon should take care of all of that but the gear sleeve. As for drags, we need to know how you are going to fish it.
Ron
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

Alto Mare

The 500 bridge won't work on the 505/506, but the gears and sleeve would.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Bryan Young

SS gear sleeve is a must, my drag kit and one of Alan Tani's SS power arm  http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=8662.0 with a 3/0 handle.

The power handle is tge same as the jigmaster power handle except in stainless steel.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Keta

#6
WOT,
SS gear sleeves and a metal frame are a must if you wish to push the reels, my dogs go with the sleeve well.  Double dogging is also a good addition. A metal frame is the second thing I do to my reels, SS gear sleeve is #1. A slightly longer handle arm and hand filling handle is nice nice, my drag inserts are just a toy but it gives you much more drag.





Quote from: Alto Mare on January 12, 2014, 07:57:45 PM
Since you said out of the box, I'm not so sure about the 506, the pinion isn't great on those :-\.


I only have the Jigmaster reels in 500/501 for a reason.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

otghoyt

OK Keta.  Thanks for bringing your 2 cents to the table.  I want one of your cranks for this machine.  What is the insert you're talking about?  It that the hex drag people are braggin about?  Again.... I don't think I need more drag lbs.  I need smooth.  The pole, as intended should take up a lot of shock/load in it's inherent design.

To clarify.....A Tiburon frame is a metal....make that aluminum frame.  It is designed to make the cross bars obsolete.  Much, much more stable than the stock stamped steel frame and bars.  I already have this upgrade and it was the numero uno upgrade for me.

I already have Newell 5 to 1 stainless steel gears that have been lapped in with glass lapping compound.  They are as quiet as any bronze gears you can find.  I am getting a stainless steel yoke and when I get it the yoke, the main gear/yoke interface will be lapped in with glass lapping compound.  A stainless steel eccentric is part of the package and is also on the way.  I also have a SS gear sleeve coming fro Alan.  Thanks to all for sharing the wisdom that prompted me to secure these new parts.

What is this "hex insert" for the drag package????????  Isn't it suppose to make for a super smooth drag?  Am I mistaken in this thinking?  Do I misunderstand this concept?  The 5+I clutch package bumps the overall poundage applicable to the gearset.  Yeah...I get that, but I am thinking a super smooth drag is essential for what I am trying to accomplish.  Can I put a three plate CF/SS drag-set into a hex insert to obtain a stout and smooth drag package?


Keta

Actually the ones I'm making are octagon not hex.  They are still in the R&D stage but I'm selling them with the right size keyed washers for what it costs to cut for now.  You can fill the gear with alternateing CF metal washers or remove a CF and add a metal washer if you want less max drag.

Here's a drawing of the adapter, ignore the dimensions.

Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

Bryan Young

Both Lee's and my drag kits are smooth.  The underlying benefit is if you need more drag.  Let's say you fish with 30# main, and needed to go with a higher top shot (like we do in Hawaii due to abbrasion).  If you leader/topshot can be spooled on your reel while the fish is in the water, you could essentally increase your drag to pull the fish closer to the boat.  (if that makes sense).  In Hawaii, we fish 50# main with 200#-300# leader that I can reel on to the reel, then increase the drags to drag the fish in if needed.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Ron Jones

My 112H has one of Lee's inserts and I love it. I don't have a set of Bryan's drags to compare but there are a bunch of guys running them. I can break 60 pound line with a straight pull with Lee's insert and 3 CF disks. If that's not enough drag for your Jigmaster then get a bigger reel. :) With greased drags their is no start-up at all. Beings how you are casting a 506 and you want the moon, I'd look into upgraded bearings with no shields and lubed w/ TSI 301. It will be a killer reel.
Ron
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

maxpowers

I have a 506HS with all the upgrade minus the double dog, and tib frame with open bearings / tsi 321 but my P-229 will outcast it every time.  I have caught numerous yellowtails and small bluefin tuna with it.  Haven't got a chance to catch any 40+ lbs bluefin on it yet but the drags are silky smooth with Bryan's 5+1 kit.

DaBigOno

Quote from: WOTHoyt on January 13, 2014, 03:36:50 PM
Well, well now......that's the kind of gear head speak I was looking for.

SS gear sleeve ordered.  SS yoke and eccentric jack ordered.  abec 9 ceramic bearings ordered.  SS long crank and handle ordered. 

Saltydog's magnet pack in the works.  I'll get one of Bryan's 5+1 drag sets coming.  I'll get set up for a double, SS dog bridge. 

Anything else?

Sounds like its going to be stout reel! 

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka Aina i ka Pono

Shark Hunter

Life is Good!

BMITCH

Hey Hoyt. Talk to me about the lapping in of the gear. I have the Newell gears for my 113h and really don't like how they sound. Not so smooth. Any info on this would be great. Like how did you do it? What kinda compound? As far as your 506... I have one with all the goodies as you have mentioned. These are awesome reels. Just make sure to get some extra spools for it. I double dogged mine only in the alternating style. That's just how I roll. I don't like to have the handle back play. I will be trying to triple dog it in the future. Just gotta find the time to tinker with it.
Bob
luck is the residue of design.