okuma andros 5 II rebuild

Started by alantani, March 05, 2011, 04:57:27 AM

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madday

Quote from: alantani on June 23, 2011, 04:02:35 PM
yup, no anti-reverse roller bearing.  the failure rate for AR bearings is so high that it surprises me that anyone uses them anymore.   :-\

in my ocea jigger reels,
the AR bearing is just needed for the feeling of instant stopping when jerking and cranking the heavy jig (over 500 grams) jigging in over 600 ft depth,
slight backplay will give inconvenient feeling for the cranking palm.....
even though, if big fish is hooked up, the AR bearing will actually failed, and AR dog will work.....
(i feel....  ;D)

thanks for the review....  ;)

madday

dear alan,

i've finally bought one.....  ;D
nice little reel and should be able to tame large fish..... (i hope  ;D)

but i notice that the gear sound is little bit "noisy", in comparison with shimano or daiwa.
rebuilt it accordingly to your tutorial, add a tournament drag lube for teh drag, and molybdenum lube for the gears was able made the noisy sound became less....
but it still there....

is this noisy sound is normal?
thxuvm alan.....  ;)

alantani

hadn't really noticed.  one thing.  quieter gears are usually made of softer metals.
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

JGB

Yes you can hear the gears on the Andros. It is louder than the Makiara's by a factor of 2X (by my ear) as the Makiara has thicker gears and much heavier side plates and frame. The sound should be even and smooth with no hitches. The sound will be different between low and high. This is mostly due to light weight (thin) sides  that amplify the higher frequency sounds.
As long as the reel is smooth it should be good to go. You will also find that after a half dozen or so 60#+ YFT that the sound will change to a slightly lower pitch as the gears  surfaces lap together and smooth out the contact surfaces.

Once you start fishing the Andros you will not even notice any noise as the lightness and cast ability are top notch.

Enjoy,
Jim N.


madday

Quote from: alantani on September 25, 2011, 03:38:14 AM
hadn't really noticed.  one thing.  quieter gears are usually made of softer metals.

i surely hope so.....  ;D
any idea how to increase the drag without increasing the binding?

thx alan....  ;)

Quote from: JGB on September 25, 2011, 06:58:04 AM
Yes you can hear the gears on the Andros. It is louder than the Makiara's by a factor of 2X (by my ear) as the Makiara has thicker gears and much heavier side plates and frame. The sound should be even and smooth with no hitches. The sound will be different between low and high. This is mostly due to light weight (thin) sides  that amplify the higher frequency sounds.
As long as the reel is smooth it should be good to go. You will also find that after a half dozen or so 60#+ YFT that the sound will change to a slightly lower pitch as the gears  surfaces lap together and smooth out the contact surfaces.

Once you start fishing the Andros you will not even notice any noise as the lightness and cast ability are top notch.

Enjoy,
Jim N.

thx jim....
cast control will be not useful for me, since i will use it for deep jigging over 300 ft water.....
never for casting.....
i really hope the gear will stand the abuse of high pressure during ripping an over 500 gram jig.....  ;D

wallacewt

#20
thats very serious jigging.could you post photos and a full report on your return.if the andros stands up to that it will stand up to anything.wonder what okuma thinks?good luck ps,what gear will you use?

JGB

Increasing drag performance on the Andros beyond the specified design limit of 24# can and will cause premature wear and/or permanent damage to either the right side plate bearing or the left spool bearing. The bearing drag you feel in high gear is a indicator that you are beginning to stress the ratings of the bearings. The bearings in the Andros are More expensive than those used on other reels ($12 to $22 per bearing) so you do not want to be replacing them. There is some work  and investigations on different drag geometries that may be able to get 10-15% more drag but it is all in the investigative stages. Wouldn't it be a kick to get 17# at strike and 29# at full on an Andros. Reality is that we very seldom use these kinds of drag settings and it is easy to get wrapped up in the numbers game. Heck when I fish a 40# outfit the drag rarely goes above 10 or 12# and I use the rod and my thumb to get any more that I might need. The thinking is if you use the drag there is no way you can lower the drag in an emergency but you can easily drop the rod tip or release you thumb a bit as the demands of the fish changes during the fight.

Have fun,
Jim N.

madday

Quote from: wallacewt on September 25, 2011, 11:09:53 PM
thats very serious jigging.could you post photos and a full report on your return.if the andros stands up to that it will stand up to anything.wonder what okuma thinks?good luck ps,what gear will you use?

i am from bali island, indonesia....
even tough i am now live in japan, but sometimes i came back to bali and did a deep jigging....
i'll go to bali next month, post some picture if catch something big using andros....  ;D

ps: my gear is 4'4 smith mariana, 4'4 shimano blue rose custom, and 4'8 riffle fisher custom with ocea jigger 4000P, 3000P, and saltiga 6000Z

Quote from: JGB on September 26, 2011, 06:36:20 AM
Increasing drag performance on the Andros beyond the specified design limit of 24# can and will cause premature wear and/or permanent damage to either the right side plate bearing or the left spool bearing. The bearing drag you feel in high gear is a indicator that you are beginning to stress the ratings of the bearings. The bearings in the Andros are More expensive than those used on other reels ($12 to $22 per bearing) so you do not want to be replacing them. There is some work  and investigations on different drag geometries that may be able to get 10-15% more drag but it is all in the investigative stages. Wouldn't it be a kick to get 17# at strike and 29# at full on an Andros. Reality is that we very seldom use these kinds of drag settings and it is easy to get wrapped up in the numbers game. Heck when I fish a 40# outfit the drag rarely goes above 10 or 12# and I use the rod and my thumb to get any more that I might need. The thinking is if you use the drag there is no way you can lower the drag in an emergency but you can easily drop the rod tip or release you thumb a bit as the demands of the fish changes during the fight.

Have fun,
Jim N.

i am just curious  ;D
i am jigging for amberjack or dogtooth tuna, not so big.... just 20-60 lbs class....
the problem is they live in badung strait, bali island, indonesia..... very strong current there....
just imagine,
they live in the water that the current is so strong, even sometimes 500 gram jig couldn't touch 100 meter bottom of the sea.... so sometime 700-800 gram jig is usual.....
once they hit the jig, and run.... 20 lbs drag is actually nothing..... they will follow the current to reefed us...
they will run to the bottom, and scratch the leader into the reef....
so its very important to stop them as soon as possible before they reefed you....
thumbing the spool is nice, but not always a good idea.....

i bought this reel, because its 30% off here in japan, i think its the best lightweight small lever drag reel with high capacity....
i think i can load 350 meter of PE 5 here for extra initial drag....  ;D

JGB

#23
It is nice to have problems like the fish are so big I need over 25# just to think of slowing them down. The last person I talked to about similar situation (Goliath grouper in wrecks or rocks) I recommended a much larger reel (Makiara 15 or 20) that have 34# and 55# of drag capacity and the frame to support it. Here are some thoughts on how the Andros might be made to work. Spool 50 or 60# spectra (actual breaking around 80#) to about half full on the spool. Top shot it with a good abrasion resistant mono of 60-80# (actual breaking strain). the idea here is to have the spool around 1/2 full during jigging so you can get about 30% more drag when the fish hits. When the fish empties the spool to 1/3 or less you have near 2X the drag capability in the drag system. This translates to 32.5# while jigging and almost 48# when you have 1/3 the spool left. These numbers are based on the reel being set up with 24# with a full spool and the drag set at max. Now keep in mind that you will need to use crimps to keep your terminal connections strong enough to handle the load with such light line.

If Amber jack are like Yellow tail they can pull extremely hard at initial hook up but will tire fairly quickly. so you you might have a shot with the Andros on a big Jack and some luck.


Disclaimer:The Andros frame is made to be very light and 50# of drag pressure will definitely stress the frame. If the fish is too big it might be better to cut it free before the frame or shaft is permanently bent.

Enjoy,
Jim N.

wallacewt


madday

Quote from: wallacewt on September 27, 2011, 03:22:07 AM
what gear will you use with the andros.photo?

smith mariana 4'4 and okuma andros....
very light set-up (approx. 700 gram) for big fish......  ;D

paal

The Andros has been tested quite hard here in Norway this summer. Seemingly with mixed luck. I've heard more than one report about jerky drag after some heavy halibut fishing. There's also been issues with the drive train. Unfortunately, I don't have any details about these reels. But I do have some data on my own Andros by now. I did a complete rebuild of it before use, and two things stood out: a metal piece sticking to the gears (an aluminum spiral, the kind you get from CNC machining), plus a poorly greased drag washer. I hope this is not symptomatic for how Okuma assembles the Andros, but the reports I've been hearing this summer could possibly be due to the poor quality on the assembly line.
The shrapnel was removed, bearings packed with marine grease (using Alan's bearing packer for the sealed bearings), and the drag washer greased with Cal's.

My Andros has performed flawlessly, which I hoped and almost expected. I did not encounter any monsters, but halibuts up to around 100lbs was able to put the drag and drive train to a decent test. I would like to put the reel to some more long term testing, but so far so good. Alan's rebuild seems to be essential, though....

madday

#27
Quote from: paal on October 01, 2011, 04:57:18 PM
I did a complete rebuild of it before use, and two things stood out: a metal piece sticking to the gears (an aluminum spiral, the kind you get from CNC machining), plus a poorly greased drag washer.

i did not found any shrapnel though, but the drag was poorly grease....
rebuilt my cavalla 20ii last night, found the same case with the poorly greased drag washer....  >:(
okuma definitely should have done better....  ??? ??? ???

thanks for this nice site alan.....  ;)

Jbare0001

I have had my andros since april and only found 1 problem with mine, the clicker was too strong. Even with the reel in total free spool and the clicker on, the clicker tension was so strong that a fish could have pulled the reel and rod overboard. I took my reel apart and switched the clicker around and now it is just right. I only get the real strong clicker when I reel in, which doesn't matter since I take the clicker off when I reel in anyway.

I am curious though about the line capacity. When I bought mine it came with 300 yards of 50 jb spectra topped off with 100yds of 25 p-line mono. How did you only get 400 yards of stren 50 on the reel? Are the line diameters so much different? Just looking at the spool and the amount of spectra on it once I took the mono off it looks like I could put at least another 200 yards of jb 50 on it if I wanted to.

alantani

i just spooled up an andros with 470 yards of 50# spiderwire, but it was wound on pretty tight. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!