Reel Repair by Alan Tani

OK maybe I shouldn't be using a $100 reel for commercial lingcod fishing but it works fine unless it is backpedelling on me, which is basically on hooksets. Most of it's use (or abuse) is casting and jigging 8-12 oz jigs and in and out of gear a lot. Maybe it's too much to ask of a plastic reel.

I got a new one last spring and it lasted about 6 trips before it started backreeling. Sounds like they have a AR bearing and a silent dog. I thought maybe the fathom would be better but it sounds like it uses the same anitreverse setup so not going there unless it is the flex of the plastic frame that is causing the issue. Drag setting is pretty low for winding in lings, don't know if I could say an exact number as I never put it to a scale but not much more than I use for salmon trolling maybe not any more really. I pulled it apart quickly between trips last season and snugged up the squeeze of the dog mechanism and looked for anything obviously failing... I didn't even realize there was an AR bearing also. There was not a spring and it didn't look like I could put on in there but did not give it a lot of time looking at it so maybe that is possible.

So I'm trying to figure out if there is a way I can modify the AR setup for less trouble and more reliability, replace the AR bearing and maybe the dog also and try again, or go to a reel that is better for the application.

Anyone played with the dog setup on these before or have any suggestions?? If a new reel then I need around the same ratio, a levelwind, a substantial handle, it can't be a leverdrag, and preferably have a double dog AR setup or something as tough or well proven.


Thanks,

Marc

You should change the antireverse bearing on your Squall. Another useful mod is to put a security spring on the dog like I did with my AG Seven and Maxximus. The security spring will alleviate the problem in no time. You can do the modification on a Fathom.

If your AR bearing is slipping it is likely a maintenance issue. It needs to be inspected, flushed with a rust remover (Corrosion=X) then lightly greased/oiled with a thick grease "cap" over the top on the handle side. It may or may not be recoverable.

If you get saltwater in there any of them will fail.

I bought a Squall 50 dirt cheap because the anti reverse wasn't working, it doesn't have an anti reverse bearing, just double silent dogs. Both dogs had bent up tabs on them, i squeezed them back together and it works fine but I would suggest looking into adding a spring since this is a common issue with the Squall.

Quote from: cwillis85 on December 10, 2015, 11:19:27 PM
I bought a Squall 50 dirt cheap because the anti reverse wasn't working, it doesn't have an anti reverse bearing, just double silent dogs. Both dogs had bent up tabs on them, i squeezed them back together and it works fine but I would suggest looking into adding a spring since this is a common issue with the Squall.

Ah, gotcha. The LW reels are dual silent dogs.

I'll break it down and clean the AR bearing (or get new) and see if there is a way to get a spring on the dog.

Thanks,


Marc

Quote from: Tile on December 10, 2015, 10:39:13 PM
You should change the antireverse bearing on your Squall. Another useful mod is to put a security spring on the dog like I did with my AG Seven and Maxximus. The security spring will alleviate the problem in no time. You can do the modification on a Fathom.

Can you describe how you did this?

The security spring can be made in a similar fashion to the ones that I did on my AG Seven and Maxximus reels and the antireverse bearing if it's bad has to have its code traced and replaced with a similar part. I think that the 2 sockets method works well to press it out of the sideplate. I personally don't own a Squall reel but the way that the antireverse dog post and secondary post are designed, the reel lends itself well to this modification.

In the attachment is a Squall 30 levelwind frame (picture from PennParts website) and I highlighted the dog post (with a red indicator) and the secondary post (wuth a blue indicator).

After the busy holidays, year end work crunch, then a couple weeks of being sick I am finally revisiting this issue and looking forward to our 2016 fishing season. Anyway, I can't find the AR bearing on the schematics to order. Guessing they make you buy the whole side plate, but there is no indication that the side plate comes with that bearing in there. I pressed the old one out and will try soaking it and cleaning it up. I am going to try to find a spring to add to the AR dog as Tile suggests. I did that to my toriums but that was real straight forward, this one I have to find a spring that will work. If anyone knows of any spring or part # that may work for this application please holler.

Thanks,

Marc

Quote from: EurekaMarc on January 14, 2016, 07:11:05 PM
After the busy holidays, year end work crunch, then a couple weeks of being sick I am finally revisiting this issue and looking forward to our 2016 fishing season. Anyway, I can't find the AR bearing on the schematics to order. Guessing they make you buy the whole side plate, but there is no indication that the side plate comes with that bearing in there. I pressed the old one out and will try soaking it and cleaning it up. I am going to try to find a spring to add to the AR dog as Tile suggests. I did that to my toriums but that was real straight forward, this one I have to find a spring that will work. If anyone knows of any spring or part # that may work for this application please holler.

Thanks,

Marc

Just get some spring wire and bend it yourself. VERY easy to do.

Pretty sure you are right about the clutch and plate. What I do is leave it in the plate, flood it with corrosion-x and spin the clutch sleeve in there until the corrosion-x looks totally clear. It should work fine then and be well protected. You can also use some light marine grease in the clutch (lightened with oil if needed) for ideal protection.

Or you can measure the old one and check if Boca Bearings have a replacement.