Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Keith, you sent me one last year, way before Dominick got his I have it on my desk.

Still playing with this nice reel, thanks again Keith.
One of the plate screw was stripped, I added some strips of copper but still not holding.
Since these reels only have (3) screws on each side, I needed to make sure I got it snug.
I replaced the stripped screw with a 5-40 ss screw, same as Penn stock.

The replaced screw has coarser threads and they're .55mm thicker.
I'm not crazy about the screws on these plates, so I decided to replaced all (6)



The screw head sticks out a bit, they do have low profile heads that would bring them flush, but I happen to like the look.
I did not re-tap the threads, I simply placed the larger screws in and slowly sat them in, SS digges into aluminum easily.
Probably not the correct way of doing this, but it worked out nicely for me.
I do not use power drives on aluminum frames, I've been saying this for a while, I believe the stripped screw was caused by one of those. Keith probably didn't even realize it when he serviced this reel.

Sal

Very nice

Nice upgrade, Sal.  I had a FTH 15 for a while, and never liked the frame screws either.  It was way too easy to have a screw driver slip, and that frame scratches easily.  There are thumbscrews available, too, but they're pricey.

Hey Sal,

What is the copper method you were referring when addressing the stripped screw?

-Scott

Scott, it was mentioned here from someone, maybe the boss. Placing a shim in the hole would help tighten the screw most times, you could use whatever metal shim, as aluminum, stainless, copper and so on. I used a  flat dog springs. I'm thinking it didn't work because the threads on the plate screws of the Fathom are really fine, I'm not sure why Penn would use those, since there are only 3 on each plate .
Sal

Would a wrap of metal foil work to tighten stripped threads?

Could go up one tap size, just don't want to overtighten.  Not sure how one would remove and replace a screw sleeve in a graphite frame?  Heat and a helicoil insert?  Not sure it could be done, and in either case I wouldn't try it on a nicer reel.

Quote from: Tightlines666 on January 08, 2016, 05:11:23 AM
Could go up one tap size, just don'the want to overtighten.  Not sure how new would remove and replace a screw sleeve in a graphite frame? Heat and a hold coil insert?  Not sure it could be done, and in either case I wouldn'the try it now a nicer reel like that one. 

John, as stated above, I did go up in size, .45mm. I cleaned all 6 holes with a 5-40 tap and set them back in, they go in with less pressure now.
This would be a good upgrade for others that have these reels, it doesn't take very long to do.
Make sure the new ss screws are of the same length.
From looking at the screws they used, this one won't be the first or the last with a stripped screw.
Another good reason why I like to torque my screws on aluminum frames by hand, I like to feel it and not depend on a clutch from a power drive.
By the way John, these are metal frames, not graphite, if graphite didn't have inserts for the screws, they would be worthless.

In Penn defense, these reels are plenty strong, the frame comes with two ss pins that help keep the plates from rotating. those help with keeping everything aligned during assembly as well.
I really like this reel, Penn did a good job.
The only minor thing I'm personally not crazy about are the fine thread screws they used on the plates.

Sal