Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Quote from: sdlehr on June 25, 2017, 11:52:39 AM

Quote from: oc1 on June 25, 2017, 06:43:54 AM
The bamboo skewers are shish kabob or tempura sticks from the grocery store.  Couldn't make them at that price.
-steve

Ah, yeah, that was a joke Not necessarily a good one....(Steve makes bamboo rods, folks, you've now been let in on the joke.

I've attached the MSDS for the Paslode Electronic Tool Cleaner. As Steve said, the active ingredient is Naphtha, which is pretty much gasoline without added engine protectants. I've already got a can of that I use. I bet you're paying a lot for the propellant to get it out of the can.... I wonder how much differently this would perform from a Naptha soak and a spray of compressed air....

Naphtha is a flammable liquid made from distilling petroleum. It looks like gasoline. Naphtha is used to dilute heavy oil to help move it through pipelines, to make high-octane gas, to make lighter fluid, and even to clean metal.

Quote from: JohnBSims on June 25, 2017, 02:16:37 PM
Naptha is not easy to find anymore, unless I'm looking in the wrong place!

The information where to get it is right above .
I was at a couple of home centers yesterday, you would actually do better ordering it from Amazon.

Sal

When we were kids there was a do-it-yourself dry cleaning spot removal  product called Energine that was straight naphtha.  Varnish makers and painters (VM&P) naphtha is in the paint department of every hardware store here.  Like Sal said, it dries (evaporates) fast.  But it does not seem to leave any residue.  Sid, one thing I've been intending to try is to put naphtha in a spray bottle or a squirt gun.
-steve

Quote from: oc1 on June 25, 2017, 06:53:27 PM
When we were kids there was a do-it-yourself dry cleaning spot removal  product called Energine that was straight naphtha.  Varnish makers and painters (VM&P) naphtha is in the paint department of every hardware store here.  Like Sal said, it dries (evaporates) fast.  But it does not seem to leave any residue.  Sid, one thing I've been intending to try is to put naphtha in a spray bottle or a squirt gun.
-steve

Uh, yeah, I've got a tin of VM&P Naphtha from Home Depot, but never knew what VM&P meant. Thanks. About a year ago there was a very interesting and technical discussion about solvents
in this thread

Sid

Yeah, some of the spinning reels I've worked on have what I call a sealed bearing; you can't see any of the balls/rollers so you can't see if they're dirty or have lube left either.  I usually just leave 'em if they aren't gritty & seem to spin OK.  Is there a better way?  Were these meant to just be replaced?

The best cleaner was Benzene. It was a Cancer causer. You can't get this anymore. My other favorite was Freon 12. Another that you can't get but we have enough holes in the Ozone. Don't tell the President about the Ozone because it's perfect.

Mike 

Quote from: happyhooker on June 26, 2017, 03:04:13 AM
Yeah, some of the spinning reels I've worked on have what I call a sealed bearing; you can't see any of the balls/rollers so you can't see if they're dirty or have lube left either.  I usually just leave 'em if they aren't gritty & seem to spin OK.  Is there a better way?  Were these meant to just be replaced?

What I do is either remove one or both of the bearing shields -- sometimes they are replaceable (rarely) -- most times I just remove and toss them -- clean the bearings with Lacquer Thinner in a Pimento jar -- rinse -- then dry and relube.  If I think some protection is needed from salt -- I may leave one shield on -- then after greasing the bearing -- install the still shielded side towards where I think may offer the most protection.

If only going to be used in fresh water -- a mix of 1/3 Yamaha Marine and 2/3 TSI321 Oil works well -- and attains a smoother and easier crank.  Many times you can just pry off the bearing shield -- other times it is necessary to punch a hole with a straight pick -- then pull the shield with a hook or "L" pick.

Shields are rarely necessary with the good quality lubes we use today.

For me, if the bearings are not cleaned and lubed properly -- the job is incomplete.

Just my method & opinion...

Best,

Fred

Quote from: foakes on June 26, 2017, 03:56:38 AM

Quote from: happyhooker on June 26, 2017, 03:04:13 AM
Yeah, some of the spinning reels I've worked on have what I call a sealed bearing; you can't see any of the balls/rollers so you can't see if they're dirty or have lube left either.  I usually just leave 'em if they aren't gritty & seem to spin OK.  Is there a better way?  Were these meant to just be replaced?

What I do is either remove one or both of the bearing shields -- sometimes they are replaceable (rarely) -- most times I just remove and toss them -- clean the bearings with Lacquer Thinner in a Pimento jar -- rinse -- then dry and relube.  If I think some protection is needed from salt -- I may leave one shield on -- then after greasing the bearing -- install the still shielded side towards where I think may offer the most protection.

If only going to be used in fresh water -- a mix of 1/3 Yamaha Marine and 2/3 TSI321 Oil works well -- and attains a smoother and easier crank.  Many times you can just pry off the bearing shield -- other times it is necessary to punch a hole with a straight pick -- then pull the shield with a hook or "L" pick.

Shields are rarely necessary with the good quality lubes we use today.

For me, if the bearings are not cleaned and lubed properly -- the job is incomplete.

Just my method & opinion...

Best,

Fred

X2 with the only exception being that if the double shielded bearing is running smoothly I only soak it for about in the thinner for about 15 minutes, to remove crud off the outside, dry it well (wipe & air), then squirt/lube it with some synthetic oil & leave well enough alone until a total relube is imperative.