Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Will do. Thank y'all!

Xjchad that's nice. I might make another pair with small ends Timon's in the middle along the top and bottom posts on both pieces. That way I can get ahold of the posts to maybe tighten the screws a little easier. Now, I have to use a screw driver on each side of reel to tighten both screws at the same time.

Very nice work Tex.

If you get the time to post more detail it will be appreciated.

Thanks...
Steve

Going fishing is always a good idea, but it is probably not a very good way to test the relative effectiveness of your prototype.  Here is one way:

Place one end of the part in a vice, and pull on the other end with a drag scale .   I would expect it it to flex under moderate load and then break off fairly easily at a layer boundary (I suspect that switching the z axis will make a stronger part).   That will give you an idea of the additional strength that you are adding.  You can even play with temps (important!) and other  settings to get the strongest part.


If you want to find out if theassembled reel has any initial improvement in controlling deflection under load, it would be pretty easy to clamp the rod butt in a vise, and rig up something with a drag scale, a dial indicator and a c clamp or two.  If you don't have a dial indicator, you can use a depth feature on any digital caliper (~$10 at Harbor Fright with a coupon).  make sure the line is on the same side of the spool that you are measuring deflection (center height side of left sideplate).  Try before and after the upgrade.

Quote from: Ron Jones on November 04, 2018, 06:34:47 AM
70% enfill will overcome any and all shearing issues in this application. 3D printing continues to change on a daily basis. I've seen some wire reinforced ABS work that will do for anything up to and including a 20/0 Senator. Biggest issue today is time, most everything else is sorted out.
The Man

Quote from: Bryan Young on November 04, 2018, 05:06:45 PM
Anything will help to keep the frame square. Compression against any solid material will prevent some twisting. I think it will work well.   Good luck to you.

I'm a bit less optimistic than Ron, Bryan,and the rest of the guys.


Some plastics (especially PLA- which is what most people use)  will warp in the hot sun, and will crack under load, especially if the shear force is aligned with the layers. It is a bit tricky to get the load distributed properly, and if the plastic is bearing most of the initial load, it can squash pretty readily, and then you will essentially have a reel with loose metal posts.   If the fit is careful, you might be able to add some amount of supplemental stiffness,  but I'm not sure how long the plastic parts will stay straight and hold up.

if you have access to some fiber reinforced non-PLA filament (requires a hardened steel nozzle),  you will get a stiffer part that should also warp less under heat.

I think the stuff Ron is talking about is continuous fiber filament (I have only heard of carbon fiber).  This requires a special printer, and a  part designed so that the part can be printed in a continuous spiral with a very exact extrusion rate.  and it doesn't do squat for layer separation.  A custom AL frame would probably be cheaper than the filament.   

Don't want to rain on your parade, but thought that  feedback from somebody else that plays with this stuff might be useful.

Let us know how it works out.   Experiments are always useful if data is shared!

-J

I thought I had deleted this picture, but found it in a text to a buddy. Here is the first sample I printed to check the fit.

I see a threaded insert in that tail plate.
That tells me this is a bushing reel.
If it has a three piece spool.
It will go before your upgrades if using monofilament.
Three piece spools can't take the stress if you are pushing the reel to its limits.
It is possible you have a one piece spool, but it is 50/50 with that bushing.

I'm not sure if it's a 3 piece or not. I did see it was a bushing reel. The guy I bought the reel from just had new line put on, so I haven't seen the spool with line off. He did say it has about 700 yards of braid, topped with 100 or 120 mono. He had the line put on at Roy's Bait and Tackle in Corpus Christi, TX. They are the best land based shark fishing shop around here. Of course, they don't know what I'm doing with the reel. How much drag can a 3 piece spool handle, if that's what it is? And where could I find a 1 piece spool?

Also, it looks like there will be a wait time for the drag insert, which is fine. I went ahead and order a 7+1 until I can get the drag insert, and from what it sounds, a 1 piece spool. I certainly trust what you say. You picture of your beast is a little intimidating! I've enjoyed reading all of your material, Sal's, and a few others. By the way, where are you fishing with monster reels like that? Land based I'm assuming?

Hello TexasShark,

As you probably know, we always encourage experimenting with these, weather success or failure, it would teach us just the same.

Personally I was never a fan of graphite frames on fishing reels, but in your case you have the posts imbedded in there, that should work.

These larger reels generate lots of force, but if a 9/0 has been working with just the posts, I don't see why this kit wouldn't .

I want to mention that Penn has been making these. I'm not 100% sure, but I do believe the inserts for the screws go all the way across.
http://www.pennfishing.com/penn-reels-conventional-reels-penn-senator/penn-senator-star-drag/1285660.html#specifications


For me I would feel more comfortable with a $100 aluminum frame for these...but as mentioned above, Im not a fan of graphite on fishing reel frames, conventional and spinners...just my opinion of course.

With that said, I understand about costs and that money could be tight at times, you have a valid argument there.


Best,

Sal

Thank you Sal. I'll keep my eyes out for a frame. Hopefully I can find one by the time I get a drag insert. Also will find out before then if I have a 3-piece spool, and if so, will be looking for a 1- piece.

Your reel is an older model. Nothing wrong with that. They made them both ways and it is a 50/50 chance that it is a one piece.
Problem is, if it is not, No regular one piece spool will fit. It will have to be for an older model as well.
With all that braid on there, I say it would be OK in stock form, but with the upgrades, I wouldn't want that 3 piece spool hanging over my head with a Big Shark on.
If that spool goes, it will hand grenade the reel.
I hot rodded a reel just like this for a member and ran into a few obstacles.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17029.0

I grew up shark fishing around Corpus in the mid to late 1960's.  Roy had recently bought the business from Ed, the causeway was still a toll road and 9/0's from the post-war period into the 60's were common.  That was when you had to use 100# braided nylon on a 9/0 which is much harder on the spool than modern braid.  Drag washers were not as good then but they were good enough to snatch you off your feet or drag your behind through the sand on a big fish.  We didn't know about upgrades, but the reels were stronger than the fishermen.  I do not recall a 9/0 ever blowing up and the fear was that it did not have enough line capacity with the thick braided nylon and would be stripped.

I agree with Chad and think the plastic spacers will add a lot of rigidity to the frame.  They look good too.

Oh..... and welcome aboard.
-steve

That's certainly reassuring! Thank you!

Yall are all awesome help! I've come to the conclusion to hold off on the drag insert, being the chance of having a 3-piece spool. I've seen and read the post of what the different spools look like with out line, but not sure if I've seen pictures from the ends of the spool. Can someone post a picture of what they look like from the side? I can also post a picture of mine from the side to get yalls input. I will be on the look out for a 9/0 - 12/0 with bearings and 1-piece spool to do the drag insert upgrade.

I found Sid's post about spools. The very first spool has pictures from the side also, that is definitely the 3-piece spool I have. Now I'm wondering what the shafts on the sides are made of on the 1-piece cast-bronze chrome plated are made of. Is that bronze also? Or is the cast-bronze poured in with the shaft made from another material placed the shafts for pouring? I think I know someone that can make a cast and pour a spool for me and chrome plate it. Or are the aluminum spools better? Weight not an issue, I want strength and durability.

Could someone explain the weakness of the three-piece spool?  Aren't all (or most) of the Penn stainless steel spools 3-piece?  

P.S. Searching other threads, I gather this is related to compression of monofilament line.  Maybe the compression of the mono can pull the spool apart? If so, does the three-piece weakness not apply to braid?