Symetre 4000RG Tips & Schematic

Started by nelz, February 24, 2022, 10:08:51 PM

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nelz

Been looking all over but can't seem to find a schematic for the Symetre 4000RG. Can't explain why the RG is nowhere, but RD, RH, etc, are easy. Anybody got one?

philaroman

#1
 
http://dunphysports.com/forms/warranty/schematic/SY4000RG.pdf

also,

'99 Symetre G is '97 Stradic E (in case schematic is better for "non-rear" mechanisms)

Stradics were not available in rear-drag, but nearly identical JDM Biomasters were

so, there should be a late 90's rear-drag Biomaster (or, Ultegra?) nearly identical to Symetre RG

not sure if this is it:


nelz

Just what I was looking for, thanks.

philaroman

replace (upgrade to BB) the plastic bushing on your main gear -- those tend to get brittle after 20+ yrs
for S/W use, keep an eye out for a cheap MLX/MLZ 20/30/200/300 in ANY condition
those have indestructible solid bronze bushings on the main, that are same dimensions as RD-0930

nelz

Thanks again, you are the Shimano-man.  ;D

I got this reel at a flea market for $5 with a nice lure too. It's smooth as butter but has an issue; the spool touches the rotor on the bottom of the down-stroke. Spool can't be shimmed due to the rear-drag design. It has alot of in-out play too.

I opened it up and according to the schem you provided, all parts are there, no corrosion and looks good. Any ideas?

philaroman

great deal...  you have extra Shimano rear-drag spools -- correct?  (any size)

QUICK/EASY (usually for minor line-lay top/bottom stacking): inside spool, under button/cover
(not on schematic) is a spring retainer between two washers, but there's room for 3 washers, total
add an extra top, smaller washer to reposition spool minutely higher (if not enough, also "shave" bigger bottom washer)


nelz

Brilliant! Gonna give it a try, tanks.

nelz

#7
Turns out the washers were in the wrong order. Correcting them helped, but even with no bottom washer it still scrapes a little intermittently. It's acceptable now though.

Any suggestions on the drag, it's a bit sticky. CF maybe?

* Btw, this is my first rear drag reel, there's a learning curve here...

Found spool diagram:

philaroman

Quote from: nelz on February 25, 2022, 04:05:43 PM
Turns out the washers were in the wrong order. Correcting them helped, but even with no bottom washer it still scrapes a little intermittently. It's acceptable now though
...Found spool diagram:

try all 3 washers above spring retainer, BUT if you need to do that, then something else is off
make sure top cover is screwed down tight -- might be just loose or impeded by dirt
make sure nothing around oscillation worm is worn or missing (esp., RD-2409) -- otherwise, everything sits a little low & loose
same goes for oscillation block (RD-5263) & all surrounding parts connecting O-worm to spool shaft


Quote from: nelz on February 25, 2022, 04:05:43 PM
Any suggestions on the drag, it's a bit sticky. CF maybe?

* Btw, this is my first rear drag reel, there's a learning curve here...

IMO, ALL Asian-style rear-drags tend to be weak, choppy/"pumpy" & imprecise (bottom dial is not sufficiently incremented)
CAN'T STAND THEM  >:(  unless there's a Fightin'Lever to manually compensate for choppiness & poor adjustability
have yet to play w/ CF for more power...  [pure conjecture] squishy HT-100 might work better than hard woven Carbontex

BONUS: can be used as poor-man's limited-range Baitrunner -- there should be a "sweet-spot" bottom dial setting,
where Fightin'Lever at min/left is weak enough to leave rod unattended & max/right is strong enough to set the hook

nelz

Well, I found the cause of the problem...

After removing all the bottom washers from the spool, it no longer touched the rotor, however now line bunches up on top of spool. I noticed when testing the drag that there was a slight wobble to the spool. After various tests, it turns out the main shaft has a very slight bend!

Apparently the bend happens beyond the point where it enters the pinion, so oscillation is not affected. It's barely visible, but that tiny tilting of the spool is what caused the scraping of the rotor. Not going to bother with the drag since I won't be using the reel like this.

Oh well, another learning experience!


Glos

#10
I bet the shaft is 2.5 mm "thick".
In a race to shave off every gram..
Luck is when good preparation meets opportunity.

philaroman

so, that's why it was retired
still not bad for $5 -- Japanese & good parts source
all the parts that are not specific to rear-drag, fit SY-4000FG AND Stradic 4000FE
the "rear" parts should fit many earlier rear-drags
if you're not going to play w/ it, consider a trade

nelz

#12
Sure, I'd consider a trade. Been looking for a 2000 size spinner. Actually, the reel's still very usable, just that it lays the line like a Daiwa, favoring more towards the spool lip. The bend is barely discernable, took me a while to detect it. But, I already have more 4000 sized reels than I know what to do with. It was just too good to a deal to pass up, lol.

Btw Glos, the shaft is not that bad, it's 4.5mm thick.

nelz

After further testing, it looks like the problem is not the shaft, it's the spool. The base where it joins the shaft is off, after some filing & tweaking with pliers, it improved.

The spool does have a nasty rash spot on it, as if it was dropped hard, so not surprising. On the lookout for a deal on a spool!

philaroman

#14
just when I found some mystery shafts  ::)  12cm & 13cm
guessing 13cm is 4000R late 90's Spirex or earlier Japanese

have extra spools...  somewhere???  BUT!!!  same impact could have damaged both, spool & shaft
roll your shaft on sheet of glass to check AND REALLY CHECK THE CROSSBAR!!!
spools have 6 engagement slots for crossbar = 3 possible ways to install
if same malfunction w/ all 3 install options -- crossbar may be shot

also found pre-ARB Stradic 2000  ???  FB?  FD?  ...of this ilk:   :d
yours is Symetre 2000FB -- correct?  Stradic is same w/ extra BB (line-roller?) & steel bottom cover