Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Just picked up 2 Penn 130 reels they are 1st Gen.
I got what I feel like is a decent deal on them, but they need some love. Specifically looking for advice where to start with one reel, it does not free spool unless the preset set extremely light.

The drag seems to not really be progressive as the drag level moves forward, pretty much what it has at freespool based on preset is what it is at strike and full (it progresses a little but not nearly like it should or does on the other reel)

The clicker is also not really making noise on one of them (that's a secondary issue that isn't a major thing for me)

Can't seem to find any videos or instructions for these reels.

I imagine it needs a drag rebuild, and would probably be best suited to upgrade to duradrag, but no clue what other than washers I need for that.

I've played with search and skimmed some topics, but not much out there for these reels of this generation.

Lots of things could be going on. Without seeing your reels, I'd look first to things: Are the belleville washers at the end of the spool rusted together? And is the pinion bearing in the right side plate bad? Either of these things could account for your problems and both are easy to fix albeit with new parts.

These are valuable reels well worth the effort for your fishing trips.

When working on these —- and I am not an expert like Bill, John, or Alan —- but have been into a few of these over 40+ years.

It is a given to always and first get new bearings and Belleville's for both reels.  Install the bearings and the Belleville's in their proper orientation —- then see what else might need to be done.  You might find very little after that plus a good full service and maybe a new drag.

Best, Fred

2 questions. Looking at the parts schematic, I don't see a part named Belleville washer. On the schematic what part is that?

For the bearings, they are $32 a piece and it seems it takes 5. I see there are alternatives listed on other sites. I'm very new to this stuff, but is there any reason if I'm servicing each year not to use the cheaper ones like r10-zz shielded and just replace as needed?

Also found these which seem to be the same dimension as the stock Penn ones any reason these wouldn't work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack-of-10-Stainless-Steel-Sealed-Ball-Bearing-SR10-2RS-5-8-x-1-3-8-x11-32-inch-/130990359902?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

I would go with decent quality bearings that have a large number of good ratings for both the bearings and the firm selling them.

The bearings do not need to be the highest alphabet rating for strength —- because these are HD fishing reels —- not equipment under constant heavy stress.

And, no reel manufacturer makes their own bearings —- they source them to their specifications from outside, reliable suppliers.

I think that John, Bill, or Alan would have some recommendations.

The ones from China are likely over-priced at $70 for 10.  I would be wary of using them, or putting my name on a rebuild with those Chinese imports.  Nothing wrong with most Asian products.  The problem comes to the surface as the cheaper metals start to wear in the balls, races, and interior casings.  And all of these bearings are made in one of 5 plants in China —- then sold to distributors under various names.  Basically, who is the lowest bidder this month that we can get the cheapest bearings from?  Quality control, materials, and exact tolerances are key when choosing bearings.

I agree...I wouldn't and don't pay for factory specific bearings — unless there is no choice.  And there is always a choice.

However, you should be able to get decent bearings from a US supplier in the $10 each range.

That is $80 for 2 reels compared to $256.

The Belvilles are generally called disc clutch springs.

They might be sourced from a lot of different suppliers —- but they need to be pretty exact —- so again, there are other folks on here with more knowledge than me on these.

Best, Fred

Did a tear down on both reels. Found one to be missing a spacer in the handle assembly, not the issue with the drag, but was an issue. The Belleville washers are clean on both, but one had them )( and the other () so I'm not sure which way they should be.

The reels were both much cleaner than I expected, 0 corrosion at all.

I assembled and disassembled a few times before finally pinpointing the drag issue. 1st there are a couple bearings on one reel that are a little hard turning, smooth but dont turn easy. 2nd the assembly that the lever drag engages, was not moving when the lever was moved. So the only drag it had was from preset, there was no movement at all when drag was increased. Turns out the grease in the assembly was so old that it was working as a glue not a lubricant.

Have new bearings, some reel grease, and a new spacer on the way.

When greasing surfaces how much grease should I be using? It had some pretty thick grease in places.

Do not over grease the internal of the reel..! It is not needed and just makes a mess. Just enough to see the slightest fingerprint.

We all used to do it but not anymore.

Keith

Parts have all arrived from various sources and the reels are going back together. In the DIY spirit, I will be undertaking spooling them in the next couple weeks. Plan to build a spooler that allows drag and then use a drill to run the spool.

Line is the question so want to run it by you folks money matters, so I'm trying to not be cheap but also not dumb.

Looking at G3 Diamond Hollow braid and hi catch momoi mono top.

200lb hollow 750yds (.8mm diameter)
200yds 130 hi catch (1.2mm diameter)

From online calculators this would leave plenty room for the leader.

Thoughts?

Hard to go wrong with momoi. Good stuff, my favorite mono in high tests.  Be careful where you braid a lot of counterfeit braid online.  Never spooled a 130 but your numbers sound about right

Going to get it from Melton Tackle as they are a name brand. Was gonna go with tackle direct but they are out of stock for 200lb hollow in th 1500 yd spool