Penn 80T and 80WST troubles - help please

Started by UKChris, September 26, 2012, 03:53:04 PM

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UKChris

I've just registered and see I have a lot of reading to do but I'm hoping you can help me with two different problems I have with current reels, both Penn International II.

The first is, I think, brand new, and unused - an 80T. Regardless how much I have scewed in the pre-set, and I would normally set it for 17lb at just below the 'strike' button, the same thing happens. When I reduce drag, all is fine with gradual reduction in drag untill the lever is just in front of the 'free' button, maybe 1/4". At this moment, the lever 'jumps' the last bit and lands on top of the 'free' button. There is no way to stop this. Also, the lever will not go back past this position even though it looks as though there is room for it to do so.

Does anyone know why this happens and how to fix it? Thanks.

The second is a second-hand 80STW that looks to be in excellent condition except that the drag curve is very steep. I hope I said that right. There is very little movement of the drag lever between free and whoa there! In fact, if I set the 'strike' at 17lb or so, free spool is complete only halfway back to the 'free' button and I cannot push the lever to 'full' or even much past 'strike' - something would give and winding in is actually quite stiff. Clearly this cannot be right.

So, when I took it apart and compared the innards to the blow-up parts diagram, I see it should have four belleville washers, but I find only three in the reel fitted as (().

I think this would explain the steep drag curve, so I need another washer, which I'm sure I can get from the Penn guy (Mike) in the UK, but which way should they be inserted please? Is it ((((, (((), (()), ())) or ()() or what? I'm assuming anything )...( would be wrong, but willing to be corrected. Again, help please.

Thank you,
UKChris


Robert Janssen

Quote from: UKChris on September 26, 2012, 03:53:04 PM
...untill the lever is just in front of the 'free' button, maybe 1/4". At this moment, the lever 'jumps' the last bit and lands on top of the 'free' button. There is no way to stop this. Also, the lever will not go back past this position even though it looks as though there is room for it to do so.

Does anyone know why this happens and how to fix it? Thanks.

Hello, Chris.
Actually, yes-- I've had one do the same. It is an error from the factory. Don't know how or why it happens. On the inside of the right side plate, there is a cup containing a ball bearing, cam and some other stuff. A small screw in a notch on the perifery of this cup locks it non-rotatably in place.

This notch is in the wrong place. Undo the screw, turn the cup just a few degrees clockwise, and clamp it down with the screw. Try the lever. You'll find everything works just fine.

Thing is, it won't stay that way until you make a new notch or register in the cup to keep it there. You'll figure it out.

Quote from: UKChris on September 26, 2012, 03:53:04 PM
the drag curve is very steep... There is very little movement of the drag lever between free and whoa...Clearly this cannot be right...

So, when I took it apart and compared the innards to the blow-up parts diagram, I see it should have four belleville washers, but I find only three in the reel fitted as (().

I think this would explain the steep drag curve, so I need another washer, which I'm sure I can get from the Penn guy (Mike) in the UK, but which way should they be inserted please?

Yes, somebody has been messing around with it.

()() is the original order. Use that and you'll find it works as designed.

.

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

UKChris

Brilliant! Many thanks both of you.

It was great to know I was not alone on the jumping lever thing - most people I'd asked said it couldn't happen, till I showed them. Then they scratched their collective heads and walked away...

Chris

Bryan Young

Hi Chris,

If after fixing the washers to ()(), and at strike, at 17# of drag, is still very difficult to crank the reel, you will need a new pinion bearing.  It will become harder to crank, but if it's difficult, then the pinion bearing is bad.

Bryan
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

UKChris

Thanks Bryan,

Last night I got carried away  :D undoing all the itty bitty little screws - my goodness, there are lots of bits in these reels, I hope I can find a home for them all later when I try to put it all back to bed  ;D - but so far all the bearings are looking smooth and dandy and doing what bearings ought to do. but if there is a winding problem, I'll know where to look.

It's kinda addictive... ::)

Chris

UKChris

I'm now cleaning every single part of this reel as I like the look of it  :D but I'm sorry to say I have a few more questions...

OK I'm going to buy some marine grease - blue is a nice colour! - and not use the Castro LM wheel-bearing grease I already have, though it has been fine in my old Senators for over 30 years (yes, my 6/0 was bought new nearly 40 years ago and has been followed by others up to the 12/0). Can I use this blue stuff for the drag? (Don't all scream at once, please) Being in the UK, I think Cal's drag grease is not going to be easy to obtain. Is there an alternative I could use?

If I clean all the bearings with lighter fuel, will I be able to re-grease them manually (I have nothing else but my fingers)? They are very smooth I'm glad to say.

Next, the cam housing is rock solid in the RH sideplate even after taking out the two itty little retaining screws. Should I leave it like that as it is in the right place?

Finally, another daft question. There are several cosmetic scratches to the frame and one or two places inside where the anodising is missing/some light corrosion. Can I paint these over? I'm thinking tiny little camel hair artist's brush and matching gold enamel paint (Humbrol, as used by model makers) to blend in the scratches etc not a 5" emulsion brush to cover the whole plate.

I've now spent nearly as long reading this site as working on the reel! Great, great information!

Chris

Irish Jigger

Cals grease is available in the UK but I use  a Teflon bicycle grease which I find works well.
For general reel use I found Exus blue grease to be easily applied and  about half the price of Penn blue grease.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-EXUS-Lube-System-E-G01-Bicycle-Grease-Blue-/200625774432?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item2eb63a5f60#ht_1141wt_954



Irishdevil0311

I know it's a old post but does anyone have pics of this?

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

UKChris1

If it is of my reel, I'm sorry to say I didn't take any pictures of the inside before putting it all back together. I really ought to sort it out, though it isn't a priority as I don't currently have a great use for a single-speed Penn 80 much as I like the reel.

Chris