Reel Repair by Alan Tani

I use the Vessel electric screwdriver. The high speed version. 1,200 rpm. Speeds up disassembly very much. I also assemble with it but I only run the screw about 75% with the electric power, then I finish manually so I can feel the tightness better.

what rmp does the Wiha spin?

On the Wiha Speed e II —-

I think it is around 200 rpm, has two torque settings with a slider switch to protect against damage or stripping, LED ring light, fingertip forward/reverse, it can be safely used either electrically or manually for finer and careful final torquing.

Also picked up the larger slimline insulated bit set to get into smaller places and smaller fasteners, along with a slimline to 1/4" adapter to be able to use standard 1/4" sockets.

This tool is so intuitive and natural to use —- it gets taken for granted.

When doing a big Senator or a Jigmaster with a lot of screws —- this is very useful.

While it is only about twice as fast as an experienced Pro using a manual screwdriver (and I use plenty of those) —- this tool is probably 5 times less tiring after a day of turning screws in around 5-6 reels.

I can easily completely disassemble down to every tiny part —-a Penn 6/0 in 5 minutes or less.

Spinning reels generally don't have as many screws —- but I still use this tool on most of them because I am used to doing so.

The features to use it manually or electrically, the bright ring light, the superior hollow-ground bits, the small and powerful package —- are all +++'s in my book.

I ALWAYS initially remove or install screws manually, then when it is safe I use the electric feature.

Any of us should only use the tools that we are comfortable and capable of using effectively.  Each of us is different.

Best, Fred

https://www.wiha.com/int/en/tools/innovations/1786/e-screwdriver-speede-ii-electric?c=19

We used Milwaukee & Panasonic screwdrivers at work.They folded in half for pistol grip
type operation,I rarely used .In electronics some black boxes had several screws just to get the covers off,so this sped up the process.Like any tool used incorrectly they will do damage.I always broke the screws manually
Before using the power setting.When tightening I set the clutch so not to strip any screws.The AF went to all phillips years ago & Dzus fasteners(quarter turn) on most covers & panels.

These Wiha look nice if I needed one,it probably would be the ticket.

Fred, I may have missed it but how long do the Wiha batteries
Last? I know you probably work on more reels than most of us
On a daily basis,would you say 4 hours or 8 hours reel work?

Quote from: jgp12000 on December 27, 2024, 04:47:20 PMFred, I may have missed it but how long do the Wiha batteries
Last? I know you probably work on more reels than most of us
On a daily basis,would you say 4 hours or 8 hours reel work?

I don't really know, James —-

Seems like 3-4 weeks before switching out the battery.

The manufacturer claims about 400 screws per battery charge.

Charger charges up a battery in about 20 minutes —- then automatically turns off so I don't have to worry about frying a battery.

I do use gun-smithing manual screwdrivers as much as I use this little powerful electric —- just because each tool has its own purpose and place where each of us is comfortable.

I also like a fixed handle manual screwdriver so I don't have to keep switching out tips with greasy fingers —- plus a good, solid handle grip that I can put force on and back out more easily a stuck screw with less chance of goobering the screw.

Best, Fred

I've been using the same model Milwaukee as Alan since I first met him. If the doctor tells me.....

Almost every time I've ever gone to use a battery operated tool the dang battery needed to be charged. 🤬 I refuse to leave those things plugged in to retain a charge as I enjoy my house the way it is and not burnt to the ground as a result of some silly battery charging glitch or explosion. 🙄

Quote from: Midway Tommy on December 28, 2024, 06:19:24 PMAlmost every time I've ever gone to use a battery operated tool the dang battery needed to be charged. 🤬 I refuse to leave those things plugged in to retain a charge as I enjoy my house the way it is and not burnt to the ground as a result of some silly battery charging glitch or explosion. 🙄

😄😄😄

Pretty simple to remove the battery from the charger after 20 minutes.  Then it is ready to be used the next switch-out.  That is what I do with all of my battery tools. 

I also have many battery tools —- including 27 Ridgid's, 10 DeWalt's, and 4 Milwaukees.

Like Tom, nearly every time I went to use one of the DeWalts —- battery was dead or wouldn't take a charge —- just a waste of time and effort...plus those DeWalt batteries are expensive.  A pair is around $129.

Taking Joe's advice —- I ordered (4) battery adapters for the DeWalts that allow a Ridgid 18V battery to be used —- which have a lifetime warranty, and seem much more effective  than the DeWalt batteries ever were.  Plus I like the pushbutton LED visual charge remaining feature on the Ridgid batteries.

All good.

Best, Fred

Takes way longer than 20 min to charge any battery operated drill I've ever owned, plus if 3 or 4 months go by between uses and the battery sits idle, by then the battery is already weak and dead under a load. I decided twenty years ago to concentrate on corded tools & crap can battery operated ones. If there's no power close by I just avoid the project all together or use hand operated non-power tools.  I'm a master with a brace & bit, handsaw, etc. As long as they're sharp there's nothing to it, especially if one was taught correctly how to use them. 

I've always figured that if a shop job is going to take more than a few minutes, then it is more efficient to use a corded tool.  If the job is more than 20 minutes outdoors then it is worth dragging out an extension cord.  Battery-powered saws seem to be especially wimpy.

Unfortunately, the wife and kids disagree so there are some confrontational discussions when it comes time to add or replace a tool.

Even if I'm in the house or garage I reach for the cordless tools first. Except for the 50 yr old all metal Craftsman jigsaw, I don't have a cordless one.

To follow up, I received the Amazon/Skil recommended by Gobi King; and have used it on two projects (assembly of a desk for son and dashboard disassembly/radio repair on SWMBO's Jeep) and so far (like one week and two jobs are a good sample set  ) am pretty happy with the minimal outlay.  I like how if you are not using teh power setting, the head locks so you can use it as a normal screwdriver - I don't know how hard I would want to torque on anything by hand, but it has been adequate for my needs so far. - john

Quote from: Midway Tommy on December 29, 2024, 12:52:27 AMTakes way longer than 20 min to charge any battery operated drill I've ever owned, plus if 3 or 4 months go by between uses and the battery sits idle, by then the battery is already weak and dead under a load. I decided twenty years ago to concentrate on corded tools & crap can battery operated ones. If there's no power close by I just avoid the project all together or use hand operated non-power tools.  I'm a master with a brace & bit, handsaw, etc. As long as they're sharp there's nothing to it, especially if one was taught correctly how to use them. 

Old battery tech was complete garbage. You can't compare it to modern Lithium-based stuff. The batteries are eye-bleedingly expensive though.

Lithium batteries need to stay charged around 60 to 80 % to extended life when not in use. I charge mine to full charge and then use them a bit before storing or to 4 bars out of 5 bars

I learned a lot from this thread.

I like light tools now that my worn joints hurt when I use heavy tools.

Torque:
Precision torque instruments are important when working on precision stuff. I have a buddy in Kansas City, he worked for stanley tools (25 years back) and he was the technical sales person for precision torque screw drivers used in the MCI (KC Airport) air craft refurb hangers. one screw driver was set to a specific torque for a specific assembly.

Breaking Loose:
I use the manual feature of any electric screw drive to break a screw loose, and same when tightening, just snug with electric and then manual mode to torque it down.

For any of the tools below, I don't think we can gauge the actual torque at any setting.


1. Wiha - Fred's choice is the cat's meow at around $300, your reels will love you back :-)
2. Hitachi - Metabo - Juro's makes good point on variable torque and other good features like Wiha, $60 ish, definitely buy one on sale. can be bought for $40 ish per camelcamelcamel
3. Vessel - Boon/Hytek and other - I had to look it up on amazon, can be bought for  $35 on amazon, I like the shape, I will probably pick one up when I see  sale.
4. Skill/amazon basic - $25 says it all, but being a skill (has bosch stamp on it), I am cool with  the price and feature. USB-C charging a PLUS for me, one less bleeping charger on my tiny ranch of a house.
5. Ali-express $15 driver - Hardyboy gets the prize, he picked up an ALIEXPRESS nameless electric screw driver for $15 shipped and he has serviced hundreds of reels over a year plus and this thing  is still kicking.

Ladies and Gentlemen, size does matter when it comes to drivers, contrary to popular belief.

I leave you with my acquisitions from the last week. If my $25 amazon driver lacks the power, then I have an alternate ;-)