Reel Repair by Alan Tani

I'm working on a Penn 70VS. I'm curious what the brain trust here would do in my situation.
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/70vs_before.pdf
All parts reference the linked schematic above.
The heads on two of the three screws (#101A) that attach the coupling plate (#119) to the low speed main gear (#5L) are stripped and I can't unscrew them.  The only reason to remove them is to clean and grease the gears and the right side plate bearing that is trapped under the gears.

A few options I'm considering:
1. Take a drill bit and just drill out the trapped screws.  I'd probably destroy the threading in the low speed main gear and would have to replace that, along with the screws and maybe the coupling plate.
2. Try one of the bits that are specialized for backing out stuck screws.  If this fails, I'm probably out $30 and back to option 1.
3. Leave it alone.  I think the reel will function fine with these screw heads stripped, it's just not possible to fully service.

Here's a photo

I think I'd try an easy-out first and see if I can get them out while not being too aggressive so if they don't budge the reel would still be functional
Hopefully there's enough screw left to hold them together
If the trapped bearing is still good there's a strong argument for leaving well enough alone

Before drilling or trying an easy-out, my first attempt would be to cut a straight slot with a Dremel tool —- then after securing the sideplate in a wood-faced vise —- use a good manual screwdriver of the proper fit with a pair of vise grips secured tightly to the screwdriver shank for additional leverage to see if the screw could be very slightly TIGHTENED.

Plenty of downward force with a good screwdriver and the VG's should barely break the screw loose —- then just back them out and replace with new screws.

Best, Fred

I would probably leave it alone until the bearing needs replacement. Then try Fred's suggestion. My experiences have been poor with drilling out very small stainless screws in reels. Experiences with easy outs and small stainless screws not that much better. But I'm using hand tools. With the proper tools and equipment, maybe a better outcome.

It probably too late to try using an impact screwdriver on those stripped screws.  However, an impact screwdriver is worth adding to your tools.  Here is a link to an example of an impact screwdriver.

If you aren't aware of this tool, here is a of how to use one.

With all the risks involved in trying to remove the screws, it might be possible - when the time comes -to clean the bearing and gears 'in situ' with rags and then plenty of whatever solvent you prefer (in the open). When dry, it would be possible to re-grease everything by pushing grease in with fingers, though very messy.

Or...

I don't know, and I may be very wrong, but if the screws are softer than the steel of the gears (I suspect that is true), drilling out the screw just enough for the heads to be removed then use a fine needle file or small drill to remove as much of the remaining screw as possible could allow the gears to be separated. Then using a tap to clean the threads in the gears free of the remaining screw might be possible.

Never done this so it might be a silly idea and I've not worked on a 70VS so not sure of the set-up with the gears there.

Well here is my 2c
It appears that the holes that the screws go through in the coupling plate have clearance for the screws.(they actually screw into the gear) so you could drill through the centre of the head of the screws with a drill size slightly larger than the size of the thread, this will separate the head from the threaded portion of the screw. You can then simply lift off the cover plate leaving the threaded screws protuding, you can then remove the protruding screws with pliers.
This assumes that there is enough screw producing to be able to turn with pliers and the screws are not absolutly jammed with loctite or corrosion.
The above method works when you destroy the head of an Okuma makaira clicker plate retaining screw- the clicker plate and cover beneath both have clearance fir the screws and when both removed leave a screw stub that is easily removed wit pliers ( well it was in my case 

I have had some succes doing this Gary.

The gears are available, but not cheep, if you dammage them.

I addition to screw extractors , this helps a lot . different size and shapes help grab what is left before drilling new or deeper holes .
https://www.harborfreight.com/security-bit-set-with-case-100-piece-68457.html

I've seen Joe pull at least one really tricky one.

(Still haven't done anything with that accurate frame from Alex yet but at least the busted screw is out)

yeah, a torch is not an option here. 

so, i would brace the gear stud (key #134) against something really solid.  then i would get a big hammer and a good fitting phillips bit (number 1 or 2) and give those screws a couple of solid whacks.  the downward impact will hopefully loosen the threads so that you can back out the screws.  i'm starting to do this routinely, whenever i am faced with a screw that i might shear the head off of.

i wish i would have started doing this years ago. 

A hand-held impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer) might help.

Thank you all for the abundance of responses. Using the dremel to cut a flathead slot in the top of the stripped screws worked! I marred up a bit of the coupling plate, but I think it's only cosmetic.  Thanks again!

What was the condition of the right side plate bearing? Is it your 70VS or a client's?