alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial 113 hn baja special
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: 113 hn baja special  (Read 213746 times)
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« on: December 07, 2008, 04:29:19 PM »

ford had the edsel.  penn had the 113hn.  i think the penn 113hn baja special died a quick death because no one took the time to look under the hood.  pity, it was not your grandfather's 4/0 senator.  it is also unlikely that this reel will ever be revived.

pull the schematics at https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/113hn.pdf there were a number of upgrades to this reel during it's short lifespan.  the reel you will see was a recent edition.  your's may be older.

and here is the reel.





first, let's back out each left side plate screw (key #38), one at a time, and add a bead of grease.





now for the right side plate.  remove all four right side plate screws (key #39).



the reel separates cleanly into three pieces, a frame assembly, a spool assembly and a right side plate assembly.



you never thought this ratty old toothbrush would last so long, did you!  clean up the inside of the frame assembly, leaving a light coat of grease on all the non-exposed metal surfaces.



this reel already had great freespool.  we'll just add a drop of corrosion x anyway.



back out each stand screw (key #101) one at a time and add a small bead of grease.  per our previous discussions, i make this recommendation because i believe in principle that corrosion anywhere in a reel is bad.  to avoid corrosion, these screws are greased, but you have now created a situation where they can back out.  this means you have to check these screws on a regular basis.



brush a little grease on each side of the spool.



remove the right spool bearing (key #55a).



pull the shields, clean out the grease, relube it with corrosion x and install it open back onto the spool shaft.  



install the spool assembly back into the frame.



for routine maintenance, this is all you are looking at.  that is, of course, once we finish the right side plate.  let's start on the right side plate by removing the handle lock screw (key #23a).



remove the handle nut cap (key #110).



remove the handle nut (key #23).



remove the handle (key #24).



remove the star drag wheel (key #10).  these graphite stars can break.  an all metal replacement is available through penn or mysticparts.com.



remove the click washer assembly (key #'s 8a and 8b).



remove the stainless steel belleville tension washers (key #8) and note that they are cupped oppositely.



line everything up.



our 113hn is a later model with a bearing underneath the tension washers.  back out the four bridge screws (key #16), leaving them in place.



the bridge and main gear assembly drop straight down.



take a moment now to lube the right side plate bearing (key #26).  note also the double thick stainless steel pinion yoke (key #12).  a most excellent feature.  



if it fell out, as in the previous photo, replace the pinion gear (key #13) and sub shaft (key #13a) and set the right side plate assembly aside.



now we will service the bridge and main gear assembly.  a hardened stainless steel main gear (key #5) is a very nice upgrade from the bronze alloy main gear of the standard penn 113h.



let's pull everything apart, in order, and line everything up.



install the anti-reverse ratchet (key #98r).  make sure the teeth are pointed in the right direction.  



install the fiber washer (key #4).  in most penn reels, i would substitute a drag washer in this spot.  i decided not to because there was so little room.



grease and install the main gear bearing (key #5a).  i used yamaha engine grease.  thinking about it now, i should have used cal's drag grease.  it should not make a difference, but it would probably be better not to use the two greases so close to each other.





now for the dog springs (key #14).  



the easiest way to remember is that the long end is pointed down.  





slide the dogs (key #15) into position.





apply a generous coat of cal's drag grease (or shimano's) to the drag washers (key #7L).  don't worry about the excess.  under extreme pressure of the star, all of the excess will be squeezed out.



reassemble the drag stack.  



pack the gear sleeve bearing (key #55b) with yamaha engine grease and install the belleville tension washer (key #8), the spacing sleeve (key #9) and the bearing (key #55b).



now, the right side plate assembly has been quietly sitting and remains in one piece, right?  place your left index and middle finger over the bridge screws (key #16).  you've done this plenty of times before with the jigmaster and the other senators so you're all experts at this.



with two fingers to hold the bridge screws in place, flip over the right side plate assembly and make sure everything is in its proper place.



just like the jigmaster and the newell, the 113hn bridge assembly drops straight into place.  there should be no dog spring "troubles" here.



with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate assembly over.



cinch down each bridge screw (key #16) half way, then go back around and seat each screw tightly.



install both belleville tension spring washers (key #8), the first cupped up and the second cupped down.



install the click washer (key #8a) and spring (key #8b) assembly.



install the star drag wheel (key #10) and turn it down until it clears the shoulder of the gear sleeve (key #98) that supports the handle (key #24).



install the handle (key #24) and handle nut (key #23).



install the handle nut cap (key #110) and add a bead of grease to the screw hole.



install the handle nut cap screw (key #23a).



add a bead of grease to each of the four screw holes of the right side of the frame (key #183).



note that the side plate assembly can be installed with the handle swung forward or back.  you can also install the harness lugs (key #54) in the up position or down.  i keep forgetting to ask if these same 113hn lugs (part #54-113hn) will fit in the standard penn 113h.





pick a position for the right side plate assembly and install the four right side plate screws (key #39).



check to make sure the handle (key #24) turns freel, the eccentric lever (key #21) works an that the reel has good freespool.



done!  note that the handle is now swung forward.  this gives easy access to the eccentric (freespool) lever.



now for some comments.  there are three major features that are combined in this one reel to set it apart from all others.  first, a disengaging spool.  this is a feature found in several daiwa reels that allows the spool to spin in freespool with contact only at the bearings.  star drag reels with a single piece spool shaft may have problems with the spool shaft rubbing against the inside of the pinion gear, thus slowing down freespool.  a disengaging spool shaft that means that the 113hn will freespool as well or better than an equivalent size lever drag reel.



second is the use of keyed drag washers.  this allows a stack of 4 keyed drag washers (key #6) and 4 slotted metal washers (key #7L and 7H) to function as a stack of 7 traditional round drag washers sandwiched in between 7 slotted and keyed metal washers.  the result is an easy 25 pounds of drag, perhaps more.



third is the use of double spring loaded dogs that will hold up against any amount of load that the drag washers can deliver.



there are other nice touches to this reel, such as the two position right side plate, the reversible harness lugs, the heavy duty pinion yoke, the hardened stainless steel main and pinion gears, and the bearings spread out all over the reel.  what truly sets this reel apart from all others is use of a disengaging spool, the stack of drag washers and the double dogs.  it is because of these features that i call the penn 113hn baja special the best in it's class.  
« Last Edit: August 09, 2018, 05:49:54 PM by mizmo67 » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2008, 04:28:51 PM »

Quote

Originally written by Y&R (12/7/2008 9:19 AM)

Hey, I figured I'd ask you first since you clearly have a good grasp of these reels from previous posts. I've used this reel twice and noticed on my last trip that when I take a crank there's an area of increased resistance during a complete 360 degree crank. Not sure if that makes sense but I don't know how else to describe it. The reel goes into free spool without problems and there doesn't seem to be any loss of drag. I haven't noticed any odd noises coming from the reel. The only thing that seems to be off is when I start to bring line in and there's a slight but noticeable increase in resistance at one specific area of the retrieve. Thanks, Young

couple of possibilities, but the most likely is that the gear sleeve is a little stuck to the bridge post. check the schematic and look at the bridge (key #3) and the gear sleeve (key #98).  try removing the handle nut cap (key #98) and drop a little oil down into the gear sleeve. let it soak and try cranking it. can you let me know? thanks!  alan


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« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2009, 05:24:59 AM »

Quote
On Fri, 1/9/09, pete wrote:  I'm lookin for a 3/0 size reel.( That wont break the bank!) every one is using Torrium 30's untill they fail , I don't see the sense in this, if you buy something that will get the job done rite the first time around! The tackle store down the street still has a Penn Baha would that be any good? thanks for your time Alan! Pete.

for a single speed star drag reel, i like the penn baja special.  you could load it with 80# spectra almost to the top, add a short 50-60# topshot and set the drags to 15-20 pounds and do just fine.  i would like to see the bearings lubed, the drags greased and put a large handle grip on it.  i've heard from other guys that 20#'s is barely enough for grouper, so i think your smallest reel option is the baja special.  here's the rebuild post. 
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« Reply #3 on: April 13, 2009, 01:10:21 AM »

Quote

Alan, I own a baja special and love it. However, there is one smalll flaw. The nut keeper on top of the handle has a very short screw that only lets me get maybe 3/4 of a turn before running out of thread. I bought a few replacements but there has to be a better mousetrap. I was wondering if you had run into this problem and were able to get a little longer screw. I enjoyed you post on the new handle but I an satisfied with the stock handle.


do you mean this nut?
 

 
i haven't had a problem. it would be nice if the drive shaft was just a smidge longer, but it's been ok far. also, you should check out the new handle grip at some point. it makes a HUGE difference. alan
 
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« Reply #4 on: April 13, 2009, 02:13:39 AM »

http://www.deepjigging.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=50785

Quote from: TBaker;50785

Posted this as an addendum on the Jigfest IV thread, but thought it might be more useful over here:

Just a note on gear used on our recent (3/23) trip with Chip in NC. Both I and my friend, Howard, tried out the Penn 113HN Baja Special reels for jigging. I was very curious how they would do. While we didn't get into any monsters, overall I was very impressed. Had determined that they could go to about 28 lbs. of drag, but set them @ 20 (on a scale) with the thought that we could adjust, if needed. Turned out we didn't need to touch them. Reels were smooth with a surprising amount of cranking power (4.25:1 ratio). Stainless steel main gear and 5 ball bearings.  Also very smooth drags (I greased mine with Cal's). HT-100 drag washers are carbon fiber on the outside with another material sandwiched in the middle (not sure its make-up). Basically a 4/0, like the Shimano Trini 40N, with more line capacity. It also has double anti-reverse dogs, so thats not going to be an issue. And it has lugs! Smiley  The one complaint, albeit small for me, is its a bit heavy and it has that old-school Senator look (get over it!).  For under $200, I was very pleased. For you high-end guys, you might think of this as a back-up to your Trini 40N or Saltiga. Relatively cheap insurance.


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« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2010, 10:34:08 AM »

Quote

Hi Alan,  I'm looking for an upgrade for the right side spool bearing on the Baja Special.  I have the "later model" reel.  I'd like to replace the Penn bearing w/ a Boca bearing.  However, I'm not able to find information regarding bearing #, even from Boca.  Also, I do not have a micrometer to provide Bocal w/ EXACT measurements.  Do you have the correct # for the right side spool bearing (Boca)? Thanx, Glenn


glenn, i didn't post bearing dimensions with the baja special post.  when i get a reel in, i will add the dimensions.  alan


Quote

Hi again, Alan.  I found a local "bearing shop" nearby my house & was able to purchase the bearing there for $6.50.  FYI the dimensions of the bearing are: .625 O.D.; .375 I.D.; .156 thick/deep.  Hope that may help you in the future.

Best,
Glenn


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« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2011, 03:51:27 AM »

from steve carson

Quote

Originally Posted by stiffblade  
Has anyone used the old style Penn Baja Special and used the in line upgrade to improve their reel? The upgrade is mainly a new sideplate that will accomodate a bearing around the gear sleeve. It's about $40 bucks and I plan to mainly use it for yo/yo with 50lb line.

Has the upgrade made that much of an improvement for you?

stiffblade


The additional bearing was added to clean up a little handle slop.
If the play in the handle does not bother you, no need to spend the time and money getting it done.
I have the reel in all 3 conditions: factory with 6 ball-bearings; retro-fitted to 6; and original with 5.
It's impossible to tell the difference without close examination.
Also remember that the printing on the BOX was never changed.
Even the new production says "5 ball-bearings" on the box, but if you look at the owner's manual, it shows 6.
Unless you bought yours in 2004 or early 2005, it may indeed have 6 bearings already.



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« Last Edit: January 03, 2011, 03:52:12 AM by alantani » Logged

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« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2011, 04:47:28 AM »

alan, how are you?

i just did a total rebuild of a used one of these...besides some dog spring troubles,  steps went great.

i do have some spool play. seems to move side to side a lil too much...kinda clunky. any suggestions? thanks
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« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2011, 02:43:00 PM »

Try tightening the left bearing housing a little at a time. When it's right you should hear a very slight clunk when you move the spool side-to-side as opposed to a loud CLUNK when it's too loose. I just Tani-ized my new, off-the-shelf 113HN and I had to readjust the left bearing also.
Let us know if this solves it.
Rob
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« Reply #9 on: March 27, 2011, 04:07:38 PM »

yes! thank you! actually it's my dumb mistake...i forgot i had loosened it again...couple turns and it's perfect.

i like this reel!
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« Reply #10 on: March 27, 2011, 05:11:40 PM »

Glad it was a simple fix and problem solved.

Two things - it's a great reel isn't it? And Alan really makes it easy for all of us. Grin
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Rob

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« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2011, 01:02:23 AM »

Glad it was a simple fix and problem solved.

Two things - it's a great reel isn't it? And Alan really makes it easy for all of us. Grin

yes and yes! his posts have been a life(money) saver!!!

hey do you have a rod recommend for baja for jigging small/medium tuna?
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« Reply #12 on: March 28, 2011, 01:21:57 AM »

Glad it was a simple fix and problem solved.

Two things - it's a great reel isn't it? And Alan really makes it easy for all of us. Grin

yes and yes! his posts have been a life(money) saver!!!

hey do you have a rod recommend for baja for jigging small/medium tuna?

I'm an absolute newbie at the tuna game, so I'll let somebody with real knowledge make a recommendation.  I have heard from reliable sources (so it's second hand knowledge), that the shift is toward longer rods, 7 1/2 - 8 foot. Personally, I'm planning to try my luck with my 113HN (40# mono) on a 6 1/2 foot 20-40# fiberglass rod and a hotrodded jigmaster (30# mono & 20# top shot) on a 7 foot 15-30# fiberglass rod. I'm not a big fan of saltwater graphite rods, but more experience may persuade me otherwise.  Undecided
Rob
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« Reply #13 on: March 28, 2011, 06:22:38 AM »

Glad it was a simple fix and problem solved.

Two things - it's a great reel isn't it? And Alan really makes it easy for all of us. Grin

yes and yes! his posts have been a life(money) saver!!!

hey do you have a rod recommend for baja for jigging small/medium tuna?

ateel,

If you don't mind I will jump in with some rods I like but you didn't say what pound of test you were going to use. For me I use 40lb test for most of my mid sized tuna fishing in Baja so I will recommend some rods for that pound test. I mainly fish Calstar rods and I like 6 1/2 and 7' rods for this application. For a composite rod look at the 700m or the 765lx and for glass a 670 or a 665. I would also check out Seeker rods and for a composite a Black Steel 6470 or a 6465h. If you don't mind paying some more also check out the Super Seekers. For glass Seekers use the same model numbers as the Calstars but you may want to go with the H models as Seekers seem to fish about one model lighter than the Calstars.

When selecting rods I have found it is best if you can pull on a few rod models if you can, that way you get the model that feels best to you.
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« Reply #14 on: April 01, 2011, 03:41:45 AM »

hey thanks. i'm going to load it up with 65# or 80# braid with a 80 fluoro leader. i'm leaning toward a 700h or 700xh calstar.
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