alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Cleaning Accurate Anti-reverse bearings
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Author Topic: Cleaning Accurate Anti-reverse bearings  (Read 38684 times)
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Mr GreenJeans
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« on: January 30, 2011, 10:30:45 AM »

I have a Bx2-400 and the crank action is just a little bit stiff/sluggish.  My best guess is that I need to clean and re-lubricate the anti-reverse bearings.  The online tutorial at Accurate includes a slide that says:

     "Clean and lubricate the whole sideplate paying special attention to thoroughly lubricating and cleaning the section pointed here". 

"Here" is pretty obviously the anti-reverse bearings. But I don't see anything more on how to actually clean those bearings.  I read in another post that they are removed by Accurate "pressing" them out.  So I can't just pull them out and soak them in solvent.  Do I clean them by spraying solvent in there and then re-lubricate?  Do I re-lubricate with Cal's grease, or something thinner like reel-x?

Any tips would be appreciated.  Thanks.
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2011, 10:48:00 AM »

I'm not sure about cleaning them.  I think there are some plastic, so if cleaning them, I'd probably use WD40 then forced air to clean them out of the excess WD40.  Then use CorrosionX but ReelX would work.  It's a little thinner so you may need to relube twice as much than if you are using CorrosionX...which may not be a big deal.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
alantani
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« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2011, 01:19:58 PM »

you've gotta be careful here.  you literally have to work in a paper bag without inhaling the fumes.  there are a couple of things you can do.  go slow, take your time.

there are two anti-reverse roller bearings.  older models rusted quickly because they were installed dry.  later models rusted slowly because they were sprayed down with corrosion x.    if your roller bearings are rough, you can try this and it might even work.  you want to clean out the big particles of rust so that the rollers will lock properly.  first, spray a little carb cleaner into the roller bearings.  then get a TINY little toothbrush and gently brush to loosen the clumped up rust.  spray a little more carb cleaner to get a better view and repeat the process until it looks pretty clean.  now run a rag up into the bearings, pull until it stops, pull and twist the rag clockwise, then counterclockwise and pull the rag out.   it should be covered in rust.  hit it with some more carb cleaner from both sides and let's hope you get the rest.  now GENTLY blow in some compressed air to get rid of the carb cleaner.  spray in a bunch of corrosion x until it is good and soaked.  let the excess drip out and reinstall everything.  

work in a paper bag or work over a large towel.  be aware that some of the rollers may go flying.  if you lose them, damage them, or otherwise just foul them up, you will need a whole new roller bearing and they are not cheap.  they also need to be pressed in with a hydraulic press.  that usually means your reel has to go back to accurate.  
« Last Edit: January 30, 2011, 01:20:52 PM by alantani » Logged

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Mr GreenJeans
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« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2011, 01:30:24 PM »

Thanks Alan.  I'll proceed with caution.  Maybe I'll give Accurate a call tomorrow and see if I can talk to a tech about how they recommend cleaning the anti-reverse bearings.
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Mr GreenJeans
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« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2011, 06:41:14 PM »

Well, I talked to Accurate today.  More specifically, I talked to Aly.  I know she is not one of the techs, but she sees a lot of reels come across her desk and so should be a reasonably reliable source.  Aly said I should flush the AR bearings liberally with Reel-X.  Then work the Reel-X in by turning the gear shaft and flushing again with more Reel-X.  After the AR bearings are flushed out, she said I should put in a small amount of Cal's grease and work it around.  This would effectively mix the grease with the residual Reel-X to give me a light grease coating.  Button up the reel and I am done.

I asked if I should flush the AR bearings with carb cleaner, and she said no.  I asked if I should finish the AR bearings with a spray of Corrosion-X, and she said no.  Aly said the only grease/lubricants Accurate is using these days are Reel-X and Cal's grease.

I hate it when I get answers that don't agree.  Alan, I would appreciate any advice you could offer on how I should clean the AR bearings.

As another point of information, I should also mention that I take really good care of my reels and I see no signs of rust or corrision in the AR bearings.  It's just that the crank action is a little stiff and I want to get it back up to "like new" standards.  Any advice is appreciated.  Thanks.

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alantani
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« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2011, 10:50:20 PM »

sorry, should have been more specific.  if there is no rust in the AR bearings, then just flood them with corrosion x and call it a day.  if there is rust, they should be replace.  if you want to clean a rusty pair of AR bearings, then you are taking a chance.  use the procedure above.  you would still be better off replacing them.  alan
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« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2011, 05:16:11 PM »

Nice thread! about the fumes here? is the wd40 fumes dangerous? I rememberd back in the days I always lubricated my bicycle with wd40, I started feeling really bad with stomach acid up to my throat and leading to me vomoting for a day... That I just was sick, but can this have been the wd40?. Maybe it was cnc, but that is pretty much the same deal...?
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JC Wileman
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« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2012, 08:53:00 PM »

OK, exact same reel - BX2-400.  I have the left sideplate (with the crank & gears) separated from the frame and spool.  How do I remove the gears, so that I can add Reel X  to the ARBs/cylinder ?
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JC Wileman
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« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2012, 09:07:56 PM »

JC see your advancing and diving into an Accurate.

to remove the main shaft with gears attached:

Remove the shift cover on the handle (2 screws)
Remove the handle nut.
Pull gears and main shaft out from the inside.
Lube the ARB if not corroded.
Reassemble in reverse order.

Basically the same as a Boss Reel.

Jim N.
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Dominick
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« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2012, 09:22:20 PM »

Nice thread! about the fumes here? is the wd40 fumes dangerous? I rememberd back in the days I always lubricated my bicycle with wd40, I started feeling really bad with stomach acid up to my throat and leading to me vomoting for a day... That I just was sick, but can this have been the wd40?. Maybe it was cnc, but that is pretty much the same deal...?
Hafnor:  I read something about WD-40 a few years ago.  The oil used is pretty clean and I think it is even ok if you accidently swallowed some.  Go to Snopes.com and check out a list of the things you supposedly can do with WD-40.  I say supposedly because the list is extensive and the folks that make WD-40 said that most of the list was true but that WD-40 could not do some of the things on the list.  Let me see if I can find the link.  Here it is http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp I also heard that it is against the law to spray your fishing lures with it as it is an attractant for fish.  I don't know if it is an attractant or if it is against the law, but the fish attractant did pique my curosity.  Dominick
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Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

 Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day drinking beer.
JC Wileman
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« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2012, 10:49:55 PM »

JC see your advancing and diving into an Accurate.

to remove the main shaft with gears attached:

Remove the shift cover on the handle (2 screws)
Remove the handle nut.
Pull gears and main shaft out from the inside.
Lube the ARB if not corroded.
Reassemble in reverse order.

Basically the same as a Boss Reel.

Jim N.

Thanks, Jim!  My "advancement" stalled an hour ago: the E-clamp flew off when I tried putting it back on.  Then, when I found it, I couldn't really get the spool shaft back in far enough to re-attach it.  I had tried taking off the shift cover, but the shift button seemed to keep the cover on.  I think my reel is going to take a road trip - to Corona!  JC
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JC Wileman
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hafnor
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« Reply #11 on: February 01, 2012, 03:38:24 PM »

Nice thread! about the fumes here? is the wd40 fumes dangerous? I rememberd back in the days I always lubricated my bicycle with wd40, I started feeling really bad with stomach acid up to my throat and leading to me vomoting for a day... That I just was sick, but can this have been the wd40?. Maybe it was cnc, but that is pretty much the same deal...?
Hafnor:  I read something about WD-40 a few years ago.  The oil used is pretty clean and I think it is even ok if you accidently swallowed some.  Go to Snopes.com and check out a list of the things you supposedly can do with WD-40.  I say supposedly because the list is extensive and the folks that make WD-40 said that most of the list was true but that WD-40 could not do some of the things on the list.  Let me see if I can find the link.  Here it is http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp I also heard that it is against the law to spray your fishing lures with it as it is an attractant for fish.  I don't know if it is an attractant or if it is against the law, but the fish attractant did pique my curosity.  Dominick

Will do Dominick. I heard the same thing. Some Norwegian fishermen fished for salmon in alaska and two of the four guys used wd40 on their lures... They caught 90% of the fish!
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #12 on: February 01, 2012, 04:50:32 PM »

JC see your advancing and diving into an Accurate.

to remove the main shaft with gears attached:

Remove the shift cover on the handle (2 screws)
Remove the handle nut.
Pull gears and main shaft out from the inside.
Lube the ARB if not corroded.
Reassemble in reverse order.

Basically the same as a Boss Reel.

Jim N.

Thanks, Jim!  My "advancement" stalled an hour ago: the E-clamp flew off when I tried putting it back on.  Then, when I found it, I couldn't really get the spool shaft back in far enough to re-attach it.  I had tried taking off the shift cover, but the shift button seemed to keep the cover on.  I think my reel is going to take a road trip - to Corona!  JC
The e-clip has to be put on when the right side plate removed from the frame. This will allow you to push on the spool shaft, and add the e-clip.  I learned that after taking apart the reel 3 times because I put the spool on backward.  If you have ever serviced Accurates before, you know exactly what I'm talking about.  Good luck.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
Irish Jigger
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« Reply #13 on: February 01, 2012, 05:50:43 PM »

Nice thread! about the fumes here? is the wd40 fumes dangerous? I rememberd back in the days I always lubricated my bicycle with wd40, I started feeling really bad with stomach acid up to my throat and leading to me vomoting for a day... That I just was sick, but can this have been the wd40?. Maybe it was cnc, but that is pretty much the same deal...?

Fished with an old guy years ago who suffered badly with arthritic hands. He sprayed them with WD40 every time he went boat fishing. Never complained of pain all day. Can't remember what he died of.
I have used it for over 50 years and found it to be indispensable about the home and workshop.
Always took great care not to inhale the fumes.















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wallacewt
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« Reply #14 on: February 01, 2012, 08:17:05 PM »

bit like my dad,smokin killed him.they dont muck around at the cremetorium
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