Painting Newell seats and bars.

[PacRat]

Do any of you paint your Newell seats and bars? If so, what type of paint do you use? I have a lot of old Newell stuff and it's very well used. I've never considered painting it because I worry about corrosion getting under the paint. I have considered powder-coating or Cerakote but I'm concerned about heat and overspray. Have any of you fished a repainted Newell long term in saltwater?
Thanks
Mike

[mizmo67]

Wouldn't powder coating hold up better long term?

I've never done either one, so I'm curious.

I've got one reel that someone else power coated with a glittery green as a gift but it's a show piece.

[Mac53]

PR,

There was a good thread with pictures about powder coating on the forum some time back.  Use the Search function and see if you can find it.  Good stuff!

Mac

[Frank]

thinkwahoo (forum member and one time Newell employee) is the man to talk to on this. He told me what paint to use and even the temp to bake it at in the oven. LOL. I spoke to him about this a good ten years ago but can't find my notes. It seem that Carl Newell wasn't happy with the early Newell anodized parts so he painted over them.

[TomT]

About 5 yrs ago I purchased  a few 113h's and 114h's--well LOTS .  I was looking for colorful frame and side plate covers and  planned to upgrade the drags etc as needed.  I thought I had really made a find as I had purchased a 113h with black side plates ---until I tore it apart.  The inside of my "black" side plates were maroon!!  Someone had painted them with something.  The reel appeared to have been used after it was painted and I found no scratches or marks in the finish.  I put it together with a purple accurate frame and made a gift to my adult daughter.  she does use it some every year and it still has no flaws in the paint (finish).  I wish that I could tell you what was used to make the plates black, but unfortunately I can't.  But I can tell you that it is a good finish with no flaws and someone out there in cyberspace knows what they painted the reel side plates with.  Good luck with your quest and I am sure it is possible.
TomT

[eguinn]

I've used a semigloss or BBQ black paint on some parts I've done & they look like new. Spray your parts with either paint, heat your over to 400 degrees, put your parts on a aluminum pie tin, bake for 1 hour & let them cool.

[PacRat]

Thanks guys. I recently purchased a used Newell 99 spool and when it arrived in the mail I could smell fresh paint on it and it actually felt a bit sticky. So into the 400 degree oven it went for an hour and it came out beautiful...especially after applying some Mothers Carnauba Wax.

[mike1010]

I've used a semigloss or BBQ black paint on some parts I've done & they look like new. Spray your parts with either paint, heat your over to 400 degrees, put your parts on a aluminum pie tin, bake for 1 hour & let them cool.

Is this safe with graphite pieces?  Thanks.

Mike

[jurelometer]

I've used a semigloss or BBQ black paint on some parts I've done & they look like new. Spray your parts with either paint, heat your over to 400 degrees, put your parts on a aluminum pie tin, bake for 1 hour & let them cool.

Is this safe with graphite pieces?  Thanks.

Mike

"Graphite"  is just cast nylon  with some combination of finely shredded glass and carbon/graphite  fibers mixed in.  From reading the trade literature:  We are talking about liquefying at something in the neighborhood of 350-400 F.   I wouldn't want to get the stuff over 150F, especially the stiffer parts that have a high fiber content.  They will cool unevenly and possibly weaken or crack.

Powder coating only works on metal.  It requires electrical conductivity and the ability to withstand 400F heat for around 10-20 minutes.

Powder coated aluminum is a nice option,  It will surface scratch easier than anodized, but it will not chip off, and will be tougher to scratch through to bare aluminum.   Not sure I would want to use it in a crossbar if the line is going to rub.   Braid will definitely cut right through it.  Powder coating requires specialized equipment and a dedicated oven.

I was taught to never use a food cooking oven for baking powder coat.   Not sure if this applies to BBQ paint, but I would personally read the MSDS and application instructions carefully before proceeding.

-J.

[thinkwahoo]

You would never paint plastic spools then try to cure in an oven.

I've finally switched to Krylon semi black rattle can.  It dries quickly and the finish holds up very well on the aluminum parts, and best of all doesn't require putting the parts in an oven.  The finish really does look like the original painted parts.

[mike1010]

Thanks, guys.  Wahoo, are you using the Krylon  "Rust Tough," or the plain interior/exterior?

[Alto Mare]

I never tried it, but read that powder coating could be possible on plastic parts:
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/articles/How_to_apply_Powdr2O_to_plastic.pdf

Sal

[STRIPER LOU]

I have painted my fair share of aluminum but far from an expert by any means.
A couple of things that  really help make the paint stick  is a light sand blast, a zinc chromate or automotive acid etch type primer. For the topcoat I like Krylon the best as I never have any drying problems with it and it seems to be one of the harder finishes for a rattle can.
Let us know how you make out.
...............Lou

[jurelometer]

I never tried it, but read that powder coating could be possible on plastic parts:
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/articles/How_to_apply_Powdr2O_to_plastic.pdf

Sal

You are right Sal.   The traditional, widely used powder coating method requires parts that conduct electricity and can withstand about 10-15 minutes of 400 degree heat (i.e. metal).  I have done a bit of this this with metal parts.  not too hard if you have all the equipment.

There are now low temp powders for wood and plastics.   You preheat the part to make the powder stick, and then cure the part in an oven.  The lowest cure temp I have seen is 250F.  I haven't tried this yet, but want to try on MDF (wood), but have't found a supplier for smaller amounts of powder.

At any rate,  I would be surprised to find a low temp powder that would work on fiber reinforced nylon (graphite).  Especially a thirty year old part that has to maintain its shape and strength. 250 degrees is pretty hot.    And don't forget ability to adhere to nylon, durability, UV, and salt spray requirements, offgassing/ moisture content, etc, etc. 

But if somebody tries it, please post your results.

-J

[Alto Mare]

Dave, I bet it would look good on MDF.
I actually just got home from installing some Andersen windows, I only use Andesen by the way.
I'm using the ones with a pre finish.
I asked a while back how were they able to powder coat wood, they never gave me details but mentioned the secret was in the primer, enabling them to give the wood a negative charge.
If I remember correctly, they called it fusion.

The finish on those windows is very tough, I've been using them for a while now.

Sorry, we're pulling away from powder coating plastic, but believe this is still interesting

Sal