alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Post 90 Seaboy 185 and 190
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
September 21, 2019, 01:38:12 AM *
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Author Topic: Post 90 Seaboy 185 and 190  (Read 9328 times)
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mhc
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« Reply #60 on: March 13, 2018, 05:31:39 AM »

Damn, CRS sucks.

 Grin Grin Grin Grin
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« Reply #61 on: March 13, 2018, 05:32:09 AM »

15-99 dogs work in my 185 and I used the last 2 SS ones I had on mine.

DANG!  Do you have those laser-cut, or do you hand-cut them?
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« Reply #62 on: March 13, 2018, 05:38:42 AM »

15-99 dogs work in my 185 and I used the last 2 SS ones I had on mine.

DANG!  Do you have those laser-cut, or do you hand-cut them?

Water cut, I have another cutting order but the shop is busy with big jobs.

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Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.
A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
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« Reply #63 on: March 14, 2018, 01:46:51 AM »

I've made a bit of progress with my 190 to 185 conversion frame today and took a few photos of the process I used. I thought about starting a new thread but decided to post it here to keep all the post 90 seaboy stuff together - hope you don't mind Lee.

Started by marking the inside & outside diameters and the radius of the side plate screws on the 2mm 316 SS sheet;



The tail plate I used as a template for the screw holes had a couple of hairline cracks on the inside around the bearing. I couldn't unscrew the bearing - it turned but didn't move, thinking the thread was stripped I drilled it out then drilled a 9.5 mm hole in the plate and the 2mm sheet so I could clamp the plate to the sheet with an old gear sleeve. The center of the holes were marked through the existing holes with a 3.5 mm drill in a press.



Before the holes were drilled, I marked the second hole for the 146 squidder bars;



The top hole for the spacer bars and the stand were drilled to 3.3 3.5 mm. The second spacer post hole for the frame is 5-40 tapped into the 2 mm sheet and the bottom hole for the 146 spacer bar is countersunk to sit flush under the plates.



Just for something different, I thought I would add a hook retainer to the left side. The spacer rings roughed out;



Cleaned up and half polished;



Test fit with the 146 frame components;



And finally with the side plates;





Now on to the internals - well not now but soon.  Grin

Mike

Edit: The through holes are 3.5 mm not 3.3 mm as originally stated.



« Last Edit: March 21, 2018, 02:46:37 AM by mhc » Logged

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« Reply #64 on: March 14, 2018, 04:23:32 AM »

Wow, Mike, you made it look easy.  Very nice!   

Those spacer rings are useful for the Long Beach 60 also.  I'd bet you could sell a bunch of them if only they could be cut in a lot Wink 
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« Reply #65 on: March 14, 2018, 05:21:39 AM »

hope you don't mind Lee.

Not at all, you are making this "mud hen" look better too.  I really like the lug/hook retainer.
« Last Edit: March 14, 2018, 05:24:16 AM by Keta » Logged

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« Reply #66 on: March 14, 2018, 05:28:31 AM »

Agreed that the reel looks better. I was thinking to use the stainless spool also -- makes it more visually interesting and stronger looking (for what it's worth  Roll Eyes)
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« Reply #67 on: March 14, 2018, 05:40:17 AM »

 I'd bet you could sell a bunch of them if only they could be cut in a lot Wink  

If I could figure out the hole spacing they could be easily water cut but then they would loose their "hand made" quality.  This is similar (but not as complex) to how I made the first 50 or so AR dogs and still do for special dogs that I do not want to have a bunch cut. I'm working on a 15-349LH left hand AR dog now that will drop in without modifying the sideplate or bridge.
« Last Edit: March 14, 2018, 05:41:23 AM by Keta » Logged

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« Reply #68 on: March 14, 2018, 06:26:36 AM »

The frame is looking great Mike. Cool
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« Reply #69 on: March 14, 2018, 01:29:44 PM »

I have been wanting something like that for years! I have a long list of post retirement projects, and this is one of them. I'm gonna get it drawn up in solid works because I could use a bunch of these.
Ron
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« Reply #70 on: March 18, 2018, 02:08:47 AM »

Lee it would be good if we could get an accurate drawing with the hole spacing, maybe Ron will come up with something on solid works, is that program compatible with your cutter's cnc system? I tried measuring the side plate holes with earlier frame spacer rings, with mixed results - that's why I now mark the holes directly through a side plate or make a template if I think I might make a couple (but that's looking unlikely).
You will need to make a separate version for the LB 60 though, the width and stand location/holes are the same but the LB frame posts sit a bit higher on the reel than the seaboy posts.

I opened a couple of these post 1990 reels, one marked 3.5:1 and two marked 3.1:1, the first thing I noticed is the smaller 98-155 gear sleeve on both models. My first thought was to replace it with a 98-60 but looking a bit closer the bridge seems to be the same as 3-66 bridge except for the sleeve post location. The post is further away from the center / pinion to make room for the larger dia main gear and it looks like the 98-60 sleeve would interfere with the spool rim - no doubt there was a good reason penn used the smaller sleeve.



With the gears, both the 3.1:1 have stainless pinions and the 3.5:1 has brass. the steel and brass pinions are the same size with the same tooth number;

Seaboy 190 pinions, Brass & stainless (13-185) - OD 11.1 mm, ID 5.6 mm, Height 13.0 mm, Teeth 15

Mo, the 13-85 pinion has the same ID and height but larger OD: OD 12.5 mm, ID 5.6 mm, Height 13.0 mm, Teeth 17





The 13-185 main gear is the same in both the 3.1 & 3.5 : 1 models as well;

Seaboy 190 main, brass (5-185) - OD 31.5 mm, Height 6.7 mm, Teeth 47

And very similar to the 5-500 jigmaster main, OD 31.5 mm, Height 6.7 mm Teeth 48
 
You could probably swap the 5-185 for a 5-500 and gain around 0.07:1 in speed, from 3.13:1 to 3.20:1.



Stacked;


On edge;


I also had a first pass at double dogging my 190, needs a bit of fine tuning but seems to be working;



Mike

« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 04:02:21 AM by mhc » Logged

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« Reply #71 on: March 18, 2018, 07:24:24 AM »

I opened a couple of these post 1990 reels, one marked 3.5:1 and two marked 3.1:1, the first thing I noticed is the smaller 98-155 gear sleeve on both models. My first thought was to replace it with a 98-60 but looking a bit closer the bridge seems to be the same as 3-66 bridge except for the sleeve post location. The post is further away from the center / pinion to make room for the larger dia main gear and it looks like the 98-60 sleeve would interfere with the spool rim - no doubt there was a good reason penn used the smaller sleeve.



With the gears, both the 3.1:1 have stainless pinions and the 3.5:1 has brass. the steel and brass pinions are the same size with the same tooth number;

Seaboy 190 pinions, Brass & stainless (13-185) - OD 11.1 mm, ID 5.6 mm, Height 13.0 mm, Teeth 15

Mo, the 13-85 pinion has the same ID and height but larger OD: OD 12.5 mm, ID 5.6 mm, Height 13.0 mm, Teeth 17




   Thanks for researching the pinions Mike...I had a suspicion the #13-185 would be thinner walled than the ol' #13-85. That, and the pic of a brass pinion was why I cautioned that the pinion may be the weak link. Of coarse the steel pinion negates that worry.
   I slapped a #98-60 gear sleeve on a Mag 10 to accommodate Bryan's under gear set up, but looking at the pic I believe it is a different beast altogether. Appears the spool on the Mag 10 passes over the bridge unaffected by the gear sleeve. The 190 looks like the bridge is "tucked" into the spool...with the spool edge passing very close to where your gear sleeve sits. Here's a few pics of the Mag 10 showing the spool/bridge differences. Cool


* 2 2.jpg (353.04 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 53 times.)

* 005_5.jpg (477.05 KB, 1024x716 - viewed 54 times.)
« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 07:28:00 AM by mo65 » Logged

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« Reply #72 on: March 18, 2018, 08:45:12 PM »

Lee it would be good if we could get an accurate drawing with the hole spacing, maybe Ron will come up with something on solid works, is that program compatible with your cutter's cnc system?

It can do .dxf format.
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« Reply #73 on: March 19, 2018, 11:42:30 AM »

Wow, things are progressing quickly, Mike.  I'm envious not to have more shop time; have to be content as an armchair reel-builder.   Roll Eyes
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« Reply #74 on: March 19, 2018, 03:07:10 PM »

Solid works will output .dxf, but I'm in the middle of retiring and starting a whole new everything. I want to do this, but we're looking at maybe a Winter 18 project.
Ron
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