alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial The 2065 Spin Wonder Shakespeare Project
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
September 16, 2019, 04:29:38 PM *
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Author Topic: The 2065 Spin Wonder Shakespeare Project  (Read 6691 times)
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festus
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« Reply #45 on: May 02, 2019, 09:36:02 AM »

As I was ready to spool line on this reel, it froze.  Took the side plate off and this screw that holds the axle was loose.  Don't know think that was causing the oscillating plate trouble, but it came right off. 


* 2065 screw.jpg (900.63 KB, 2029x2161 - viewed 33 times.)
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foakes
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« Reply #46 on: May 02, 2019, 09:48:29 AM »

Not telling you what to do, Chester —

However, there is a lot of cleaning yet to do on that great old reel —

The insides should be as clean and shine as well as the outside — and with new grease.

If it is done right — it will likely never need to be broken apart in yours or my lifetimes — except to maybe do a little touch-up service after a heavy season.

As an excellent Reelsmith, You already know all of this  — this is just for others who may not realize the importance of never having to look back after restoring a solid old quality reel.

Best,

Fred
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“We are all made better and stronger than our excuses”

There are ten reasons to consider when choosing your next fishing reel.

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« Reply #47 on: May 02, 2019, 09:51:53 AM »

Yep, now I have that plate taken off, I can go about my business.  Don't know if that loose screw was binding something, but it'll get as good a cleaning as all the others.
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mo65
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« Reply #48 on: May 02, 2019, 10:30:43 AM »

This reel runs as smooth as those made later with bearings.

   Yep...possibly smoother! They must be quality oilite bearings(bushings) used in these reels. I think the pinion acts as it's own bushing. You'll never miss the rattle cages in this reel.
   I think the most amazing part about these is the silence of the drivetrain. Not silent by modern standards...but by the Mitch 300s it's built like...it's worlds above! Turn the AR off on a 300...damn thing still buzzes like a bee. Turn the AR off on the 2065 and you'll wonder how they did this with NO shims on the gears! Cool
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« Reply #49 on: May 02, 2019, 03:55:36 PM »

Mo65, got any idea where these two washers go?  Huh? I was very careful disassembling this reel, taking pictures of everything.  When I took the rotor, main body, and side plate to the sink to give them a good scrubbing with Dawn, the two washers appeared out of thin air.  Shocked I could have sworn David Copperfield was in the house.  Lips Sealed  They must have came from the main body.  Huh?


* 2065 spn wndr parts.jpg (697.4 KB, 2000x1228 - viewed 44 times.)
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« Reply #50 on: May 02, 2019, 04:18:32 PM »

Looking at Michael's pic at the beginning of the thread, I do believe these are them thar warshers.


* 2065 wshrs.jpg (241.52 KB, 886x715 - viewed 32 times.)
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Midway Tommy
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« Reply #51 on: May 02, 2019, 05:05:59 PM »

There are 4 washers, 2-X2T & 2-X2S, Chester. X2T (thrust) & 2-X2S (shim) between the rotor & body. X2T goes next to the rotor & X2S behind it against the body. There is also a X2S (shim) in front inside against the rotor, then a X2T (thrust) between the X2S & X33 bail trip plate. Then the lock washer and nut.   

BTW  Huh?,  you didn't take the bail apart to clean the spring, plate & housing.  Grin
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« Reply #52 on: May 02, 2019, 06:07:43 PM »

There are 4 washers, 2-X2T & 2-X2S, Chester. X2T (thrust) & 2-X2S (shim) between the rotor & body. X2T goes next to the rotor & X2S behind it against the body. There is also a X2S (shim) in front inside against the rotor, then a X2T (thrust) between the X2S & X33 bail trip plate. Then the lock washer and nut.   

BTW  Huh?,  you didn't take the bail apart to clean the spring, plate & housing.  Grin
Then this reel is missing either one washer or one shim, because there were a total of three washers/shims. I have three in place, but the reel is functioning like it should regardless.

Tommy, no joke, this reel is so clean on the outside there really isn't any point in taking the bail pieces apart.  It would probably be considered NIB if it had a box.

BTW, what year did these 2065 appear on the market, in the 1950s or 1960s? 
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« Reply #53 on: May 02, 2019, 08:45:37 PM »

Then this reel is missing either one washer or one shim, because there were a total of three washers/shims. I have three in place, but the reel is functioning like it should regardless.

Tommy, no joke, this reel is so clean on the outside there really isn't any point in taking the bail pieces apart.  It would probably be considered NIB if it had a box.

BTW, what year did these 2065 appear on the market, in the 1950s or 1960s? 

The one missing in the rotor probably doesn't make much difference as long as the bail trips correctly.

"QL" 1960. They started manufacture in '59, introduced in '60 and were discontinued in '64.
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Love those open face spinning reels! (Especially ABU & ABU/Zebco Cardinals)

Tommy D (ORCA), NE



Favorite Activity? ............... In our boat fishing
RELAXING w/ MY BEST FRIEND (My wife Bonnie)
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« Reply #54 on: May 25, 2019, 01:42:17 PM »

   I just returned from VA Beach and testing of this 2065 on the pier. It cast great and cranked smooth as silk, but it had no lifting power. If it had any weight at all on the end of the line, it lost all torque. I thought something was amiss, but after looking it over I'm more inclined to believe it's just the design. My brother's 2062(with a simple worm drive design) didn't suffer this problem at all. With power being transferred through so many gears, I'm wondering if that's where the problem lies? Any suggestions would be appreciated. The photo below shows what I mean by "so many gears". I should add that they are still smooth feeling under load, there is just no power. Undecided


* P5253551.JPG (1630.99 KB, 1764x1311 - viewed 24 times.)
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« Reply #55 on: May 25, 2019, 04:36:53 PM »

  I just returned from VA Beach and testing of this 2065 on the pier. It cast great and cranked smooth as silk, but it had no lifting power. If it had any weight at all on the end of the line, it lost all torque. I thought something was amiss, but after looking it over I'm more inclined to believe it's just the design. My brother's 2062(with a simple worm drive design) didn't suffer this problem at all.  I should add that they are still smooth feeling under load, there is just no power. Undecided

As for power, the way the old timers overcame this was by using the strength of the rod to develop power through a pump and crank technique.

The reel was just mostly a unit to retrieve line.

However, given power vs. torque — I will go for torque all day.

That is why you will only see journeymen carpenters using worm-drive skillsaws — not Black & Deckers with no worm drive.

The physics of a worm-drive gear in a spinner — coupled to a traditional design main gear are well proven for performance and longevity.

Many Shakespeares, DAM Quicks, ABU/Zebco Cardinal’s, Alcedo’s, and Penn’s all use a worm-drive system of gearing.  It is much more efficient — as well as developing superior torque.

Good testing, Mike!

Best,

Fred


* F8ACC56F-29DE-4355-A62A-F19C13D5A59F.jpeg (62.43 KB, 409x511 - viewed 69 times.)
« Last Edit: May 25, 2019, 04:37:39 PM by foakes » Logged

“We are all made better and stronger than our excuses”

There are ten reasons to consider when choosing your next fishing reel.

The first is to pick a reel you like — The other nine reasons don’t matter.
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« Reply #56 on: May 25, 2019, 05:01:52 PM »

Mike, find a rod the length of your choice & line class for this reel. One thing, this is important make sure it has a very fast tip. This is hard to impossible to find on spinning rods for reels this size.    What a fast taper rod will do is allow you to make the most out of the pull & reel down technique that I use & described by Fred.

 I have found bass rods for bait casters re-wrapped for a spinning reel work best for this. If you decide to go this route & have a rod that you think might work but it's not built for a spinner send it to me & I'll set it up right for  you. I've rods being built for Darin in Florida on my lathe now & a couple of others in line waiting. Price couldn't be beat & you'd be happy with my work. Just let me know... Jeff
« Last Edit: May 25, 2019, 05:08:20 PM by Rivverrat » Logged
mo65
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« Reply #57 on: May 26, 2019, 05:43:52 AM »

As for power, the way the old timers overcame this was by using the strength of the rod to develop power through a pump and crank technique.

The reel was just mostly a unit to retrieve line.

   This is true Fred, and I've always been one to remind folks of it when fighting a fish. The problem is...this pier situation...it goes against the norm. The reel is forced to wind the line up the pier, out of the water, with all the weight on the drive train. Large fish are brought up by a dropper net, but little roundheads and croakers are just cranked up. Even just the terminal tackle(3oz. sinker on hi/low rig) makes the 2065 grunt, while the 2062 never breaks a sweat. We fished 'em side by side. I struggled to just wind my rigging up while my brother's 2062 easily brought up doubles! As a side note, my 2091A(also worm drive) could crank a small car up the pier.
   The 2065 is still a fantastic reel...just not a pier reel. I'll probably bass/crappie fish it, maybe use it for river sauger, or just retire it to the shelf, as it is in great condition. Cool
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« Reply #58 on: May 26, 2019, 05:52:37 AM »

I have found bass rods for bait casters re-wrapped for a spinning reel work best for this. If you decide to go this route & have a rod that you think might work but it's not built for a spinner send it to me & I'll set it up right for you.

   Thanks for that offer Jeff, and if I decide to go that route I'll give you a holler. Cool
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« Reply #59 on: May 26, 2019, 05:58:35 AM »

Hi Fred. I enjoy reading your replies. Ever think of compiling them into a book "The Fishing Tackle Wisdom of Fred"? -Stan
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