alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial I recently uploaded a New Guide Concept layout video (for spinning rods)
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Author Topic: I recently uploaded a New Guide Concept layout video (for spinning rods)  (Read 1055 times)
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The Fishing Hobby
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« on: May 05, 2019, 08:29:50 AM »

Thought some new rod builders here may find the visuals and tip I had for layout useful. I'm not following the blueprint exactly here, but I tell what it is I'm doing differently so hopefully there is no confusion. Hope it is useful to someone, tight lines!

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« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2019, 06:21:04 PM »

Excellent video and narration you nailed it! I have used the same concept on all my spinning blanks.

Joe/Off the Hook Rod & Reel
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The Fishing Hobby
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« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2019, 07:16:18 PM »

It is a very good setup 👍
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Leerie18
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2019, 10:19:37 PM »

Superbly presented TFH, I am pleased to have now visited (and bookmarked) your channel. As a novice, I am developing a passion for repairing, modifying, building rods and this could have really helped me with my latest project completed yesterday! A visual reference makes such a difference.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2019, 11:13:30 PM by Leerie18 » Logged

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The Fishing Hobby
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« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2019, 03:20:32 AM »

Superbly presented TFH, I am pleased to have now visited (and bookmarked) your channel. As a novice, I am developing a passion for repairing, modifying, building rods and this could have really helped me with my latest project completed yesterday! A visual reference makes such a difference.
Thanks! If you have a YouTube account (they are free to set up) you can subscribe to channels and turn on notifications (there is a little bell icon next to the subscribe button) and you will be notified as the channels you are subscribed to put out new videos. It makes it easy to keep track of the channels you like the best
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2019, 06:14:53 AM »

Thank you.  That was interesting.   I don't think I could ever space the guides equally unless static loading demonstrates that is the proper spacing.  I have heard of the concept guide spacing and now that I look at it, it makes sense to me.

For me, the line from the center of the spool to the reducer, all guides in between, I would try to get the line in the center of the guide (not touching the ring) all the way to the reducer to reduce friction if at all possible.  Very interesting though.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
The Fishing Hobby
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« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2019, 07:57:30 AM »

Thank you.  That was interesting.   I don't think I could ever space the guides equally unless static loading demonstrates that is the proper spacing.  I have heard of the concept guide spacing and now that I look at it, it makes sense to me.

For me, the line from the center of the spool to the reducer, all guides in between, I would try to get the line in the center of the guide (not touching the ring) all the way to the reducer to reduce friction if at all possible.  Very interesting though.
I understand that thought process on trying to center the line from the center of the spool to the center of the reducer guides leading to the choker. It certainly makes sense logically. I will say this tough, when you lay it out as described by RodMaker Magazine and start doing static load testing with the line actually on the line roller and in different positions, there is some pull down (in most positions in the rotation of the rotor) of the line before it contacts the lower most part of the stripper/butt guide. That may be the reason for lining up the center line of the spool with that lower most portion of the reduction guides. In other words, it may have more to do with allowing a smooth bend of the rod and even pressure on the guides while fighting a fish than just trying to optimize casting distance. That would be my thinking anyway. If you centered the reduction guides with the center of the spool, it may add stress to the rod tip under a load. That would be my theory anyway  Grin
I do know that this layout method really works well and that is why I'm doing it this way again. I'd encourage anyone who hasn't tried it to give it a shot. I think most anyone would be very pleased with the resulting rod. I would always do a static load test just to make sure everything looks right before doing my wraps though.
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Dominick
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« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2019, 08:09:49 AM »

Thanks for that video.  I am in process of planning guide spacing for a 7' casting rod.  I looked at your channel and don't see a plan for casting rods.  I have the CRB guide spacing chart to work off of.  Do you recommend using that chart or do you have a novel way of spacing guides?  Keep up with your videos they are most informative.  Dominick
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Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

 Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day drinking beer.
The Fishing Hobby
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« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2019, 08:22:01 AM »

Thanks for that video.  I am in process of planning guide spacing for a 7' casting rod.  I looked at your channel and don't see a plan for casting rods.  I have the CRB guide spacing chart to work off of.  Do you recommend using that chart or do you have a novel way of spacing guides?  Keep up with your videos they are most informative.  Dominick
Thank you! I do not use conventional reels at this time and haven't used them for many years. I wouldn't be much help on that subject unfortunately. My recommendation would be to temporarily attach the guides as recommend in the chart and do a load test making sure it seems to have a nice even curvature of the rod before doing my wraps and make any adjustments you see fit at that time.
Sorry I couldn't be more help on that, maybe someone else will chime in who has done a layout like this on a regular casting rod. Good luck to you with the build!
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Dominick
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« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2019, 08:26:59 AM »

Love the fast response.  Dominick
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Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

 Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day drinking beer.
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« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2019, 02:38:27 PM »

Thanks for that video.  I am in process of planning guide spacing for a 7' casting rod.  I looked at your channel and don't see a plan for casting rods.  I have the CRB guide spacing chart to work off of.  Do you recommend using that chart or do you have a novel way of spacing guides?  Keep up with your videos they are most informative.  Dominick
Thank you! I do not use conventional reels at this time and haven't used them for many years. I wouldn't be much help on that subject unfortunately. My recommendation would be to temporarily attach the guides as recommend in the chart and do a load test making sure it seems to have a nice even curvature of the rod before doing my wraps and make any adjustments you see fit at that time.
Sorry I couldn't be more help on that, maybe someone else will chime in who has done a layout like this on a regular casting rod. Good luck to you with the build!

You can use that principle on a baitcasting rod as well except you have to alter spiral wrap rods. That spacing is going to a little different.

Joe
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« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2019, 07:08:06 PM »

Thanks for taking the time to put together and post the video.  As I understand it, the NGC is intended to be interpreted as a "starting point" for final guide selection and placement, so your adding an extra guide, not having all the running guides the same size, etc. certainly does not "violate" the Concept, but typifies how it is implemented.  Another typical change involves the reduction guides; the "standard" placement of these guides leads to a "bulls-eye" configuration, that is, if you sight through the reduction guides to the choker, the guide rings should appear to be inside one another in what looks like a bulls-eye target; the change involves moving these guides so, rather than a bulls-eye, the rings are slightly toward the bottom of each other, the theory being this may help the line make the turn, so to speak, at the angle where the reduction guides switch over to the running guides.  However you do it, I think there is some logic to the general theory of getting the line spirals off the spool narrowed down fairly quickly and letting the running guides carry the line out through the tiptop.  Static testing lets the action of the rod get involved in the process too, letting the line follow the curve of the rod under load.

Frank
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The Fishing Hobby
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« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2019, 07:50:21 PM »

Thanks for taking the time to put together and post the video.  As I understand it, the NGC is intended to be interpreted as a "starting point" for final guide selection and placement, so your adding an extra guide, not having all the running guides the same size, etc. certainly does not "violate" the Concept, but typifies how it is implemented.  Another typical change involves the reduction guides; the "standard" placement of these guides leads to a "bulls-eye" configuration, that is, if you sight through the reduction guides to the choker, the guide rings should appear to be inside one another in what looks like a bulls-eye target; the change involves moving these guides so, rather than a bulls-eye, the rings are slightly toward the bottom of each other, the theory being this may help the line make the turn, so to speak, at the angle where the reduction guides switch over to the running guides.  However you do it, I think there is some logic to the general theory of getting the line spirals off the spool narrowed down fairly quickly and letting the running guides carry the line out through the tiptop.  Static testing lets the action of the rod get involved in the process too, letting the line follow the curve of the rod under load.

Frank
Awesome input, thanks so much! With this being an 8 foot long ultralight rod, I think the extra guide will be a positive thing. The choker and the 1st guide past the choker have a slightly larger ring size than the remaining running guides and slightly taller frames. It sure does look good under a load so I'm hoping everything works as well in use as it looks in testing on this one. An 8' long ultralight should cast extremely well if the guides do their part. I mostly kayak fish and long glass rods have always been my go to for casting distance. This is a super sensitive graphite blank with a whippy top end that seems to be perfect for my needs. Won't know for sure until I put it to use, but I have a good feeling about it! That old 4300ss looks pretty nice on there too   Grin
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Dominick
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« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2019, 09:48:22 PM »


 I mostly kayak fish and long glass rods have always been my go to for casting distance. This is a super sensitive graphite blank with a whippy top end that seems to be perfect for my needs. Won't know for sure until I put it to use, but I have a good feeling about it! That old 4300ss looks pretty nice on there too   Grin

This might sound like a stupid question.  Why do you need to cast when you are in a kayak?  I would assume all you had to do was drop and jig.  I don't kayak so I really don't know.  Dominick
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Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

 Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day drinking beer.
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« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2019, 10:20:31 PM »

well, if they're on (close to) the surface 200' away
you can't paddle over & jig
they might always be 200' away  Grin
« Last Edit: May 06, 2019, 10:23:57 PM by philaroman » Logged
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